reglueing antique joints

[John Bush]

I have an old side table that was getting progressively more wobbly and while trying to determine the most needy joint to rebond, I took the entire thing apart. The glue is shiney and brittle, seems to scrape/chip off easily with a putty knife. I used a heat gun to see if it would soften or liquify but it bubbles then turns powdery rather quickly. My ???? is is this hyde glue and what would be the best glue to rebond the joints. I think this table is French made and pre WWII.

Also, as I was heating up the glue, the finished surfaces getting the heat would change from a flat patina to a shiny surface. Is this characteristic of shellac?? What Up!! Thanks for your help. JCB

[Al Navas]

John,

I am by no means an expert in antiques and/or restoration. However, I do remember an old post by Bob Smalser (Bob posted on June 28, 2005): http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=195012 . I wonder if this thread may suggest anything even remotely linked to your question. Note: It is a long thread, but worth reading.


Al

[Carl Eyman]

By all Means Read Bob's thread. If the heat affect the glue as you've described, my best guess is that it is hide glue. Try disolving it in water. If you can, I'll take all bet that it is hide or animale glue. That means you can re-glue it with animal glue. A few months ago I'd have shied away from that advice. Now, having tried animal glue for the first time, I'd jump at the chance. If you can get it all off by scraping or washing (disolving) I'd say you ca use the glue of your choice.

[Steve Schoene]

Almost all furniture made before WWII will have been glued with hide glue. Hide glue is the glue of choice since new hide glue will essentially reactivate the old so that not all glue needs to be removed before regluing. You do need to evaluate the joints to see if a slip of veneer needs to be inserted to tighten tenons that have been compressed, etc.

Its also reversable, as you discovered, so you can repair the table without having to do dramatic things to take joints apart.

[Hal Flynt]

Ditto on going back with hide glue.

If you need to dismantle the table to reglue, then I may suggest warm water with distilled vinegar in it. Clean the joint with warm water and use hide glue to put it back together. If you don't want to mix your own, the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is pretty good stuff.

As to shellac becoming shiny after heating, I'd venture a yes, but it's an educsated guess. Shellac sticks that are melted in to cracks for repairs will often be shiny. I use a rag and 91% Isopropal Alcohol to revive some old finishes with reasonable success.

Good Luck!

[Bill Antonacchio]

It sounds like you have been given some very good advice by the folks here.

Another thought along the same line is to get the book "furniture Restoration A professional at work" by John LLoyd, ISBN 1-86108-220-7. He is a well know British furniture restorer and has a few chapters devoted to the specific concerns you have expressed.

By the way, don't get confused by his use of the words cramps (clamps), G-cramps (c-clamps) or more importantly Scotch glue (hide glue) throughout the book.

Using hide glue again will make the repair reversible in another 60 years when someone else wants to fix the chair!

Regards,
Bill

[John Bush]

Thanks Guys,
I started scraping the joints a bit and found some areas where more glue had built up and it looks like amber, smooth and brittle, somewhat transluscent. I will try to dissolve it in water and also try heat as well. The top of the table is all marquetry and the next shelf is a beautiful birdseye burl, both with some areas of separation and lifting of the veneer. Possibly a warm/hot iron over a damp cloth to warm/soften the glue and to add flexibility to the veneer??? Then clamp or compress the veneer back into place???

Thanks again, JCB.

[Jerry Olexa]

If its hide glue, water should loosen it. Hide glue works well over old hide glue (in event of residue). HTH