Need advice on graphics software

[Mitchell Andrus]

So.... in an effort to minimize the learning curve and avoid learning software that isn't up to the task, what graphics software do you use?

My goal is to create inlays (marquetry) cut from veneer. I'm wondering about dealing with the kerf. I'm guessing that I'll be offsetting as each part is cut - ??

Thanks,

Mitch

[Bruce Volden]

Mitchell,

I believe "most" of us use CorelDraw X as the software. Kerf has never been a problem as most of my inlay cutting has been under 3/16" thick materials. More of the "problems" arise trying to get the receiving piece depth-just so-for the inlay, however it's not that bad! The laser reacts differently to different materials ei, good luck trying to "raster" away a knot to the same depth as the surrounding wood. Some (most) of my projects I cut the receiving material with a drill press and different bits. It is a fun and worthwhile venture and I highly recommend doing it. Any software questions can be answered here as well when it comes down to learning how. Bruce

[George M. Perzel]

Hi Mitch;
I agree with Bruce, one of the versions of Corel Draw will work fine. The later ones (12 and X3) give you a better Contour function-great for what you want to do with marquetry.Some woods cut easier than other and logic does not prevail as some "softwoods" are tough to cut and some hardwoods are easy.
The key is patience and experimentation- even some of the same specie of wood can cut very differently. Veneers are delicate, now mostly 1/42" thin and requires playing with the laser speed and power to cut without a big kerf-again depending on the specie.
I prefer to cut my own "veneer" on the bandsaw and drum sand to 1/16" or 1/8"-easier to work with. Check out www.laserarts.net for examples-click on "Unique" at the top.
Feel free to contact me for help. Good Luck
George

[Joe Pelonio]

The laser manufacturer may specify the software that they support, with many it's Corel. I have not done a lot of that but working with veneer I find that cutting the "outside" upside down, and the inside pieces normal you get a pretty darn close to perfect fit. With thicker pieces or intricate detail I'd have to say that I cheat, and use the contour function on my vinyl sign software as it's so much easier, then export to Corel.

[Lee DeRaud]

More of the "problems" arise trying to get the receiving piece depth-just so-for the inlay, however it's not that bad! The laser reacts differently to different materials ei, good luck trying to "raster" away a knot to the same depth as the surrounding wood. Some (most) of my projects I cut the receiving material with a drill press and different bits.

I've pretty much given up on raster-mode for that function: it's faster and cleaner to do a vector-cut of the outline, plus an inside contour with 0.01 spacing and as many repeats as required to "fill" the receiving pocket. You then clean it up and level the bottom with a Dremel micro-plunge-router attachment and a 1/8" straight bit. Areas narrower than 1/8", you can just use an Exacto knife. (I'm told that 1/16" router bits with 1/8" shanks are available but haven't found one yet.)

Easier yet is to just cut both the background and inlay out of 1/8" material and veneer the whole thing onto a substrate.

[Rodne Gold]

Depends on the machine you use to do this. If you are using an overhead router I would use something like profile lab or engrave lab that will take care of all your machining strategies (like inlays , hogging , tool width compensation and many many more things). for a laser , Corel should be ok. If I were doing inlays I would use both a laser and a computerised router , the laser for cutting the veneer and the router for the hogging. Looking at your website , I would think a computerised router would enable you to expand your horizons more than a laser could as it will also fabricate a lot of the stuff you do as well as being able to do carving and engraving etc. Lasers are really only good for cutting thin wood or marking it.

[Mitchell Andrus]

Looks like Corel Draw is it...

As for hogging, 90% of any inlays will include the field. I have a 24" dual drum Powermatic sander which 'seems' like it will level everything pretty well, but I doubt it'll understand that veneers are THIN!!! A little off the top at the horizontal belt sander (hand-held) with a finish-up by hand will most likely be the schedule.

I'm glad to hear that the kerf isn't going to be too much of a worry.... we'll see.

A three axis CNC router is on my short list, but gosh-darn, wouldn't ya know, I just BARELY have room for a laser. My shop has as many toys as Norm's.

George, cool stuff at your site.

Thanks all

(gotta correct my sig)

Mitch
www.missionfurnishings.com