Gel wipe on poly or USL?

[David Duke]

Don't like much completing the grandfather clock project I've been on for the past couple of weeks, so I figured I'd best be making up my feeble mind on a finishing schedule. The clock is made of cherry and I would like for it to coordinate with some cherry cabinetry that will be in the same room. These have been there several years and have darkened over time so I want to try and advance the patina's natural darkening process so...... after rambling on here is the schedule I have in mind.

• After completion of woodwork finish sand.
• Apply liberal coat of BLO let soak for 30 min and wipe clear, rubbing out seepage as required.
• Place the clock in the sun for 3/4 days to let it get a "tan" and artificially develop a darkened patina.
• Spray 2-3 coats of 1.5# cut de-waxed garnet shellac, lightly buffing out surface imperfections with 0000 synthetic wool pad between coats.
• Rub on several coats of Bartley Gel Poly (glossy)... OR ... spray several coats of Target Coatings USL water based lacquer (glossy)?
• Allow to cure for 7 days, buff with 0000 to desired satin sheen.

I am really undecided on whether to use the wipe on or USL, I've had real good luck with both (I used the wipe on to finish a walnut clock a few years ago and it came out real well) but I really like the USL but don't know if it would be the right finish on a clock.

Sorry for rambling on but I haven't had much experience with cherry and trying to darken it (I don't really want to use a stain), any and all suggestions/feedback will be greatly appreciated.

TIA

[Steve Schoene]

That seems like a good way to get the suntan, and garnet shellac is good on cherry. Frankly, don't see much reason not to stop there. Shellac should be plenty protective for a clock. It rubs out well to whatever sheen you want.

[Tim Solley]

I couldn't comment on the finishing schedule. However, after reading the tutorial on the Target Coatings web site a couple weeks ago, I believe it said not to use steel wool if you're using any water based coatings because of potential rust problems. So if you go with the USL, I guess you could replace the 0000 with a really fine sand paper.

Just a thought. I could very well be wrong. You may want to check that tutorial out before you apply any Target Coatings products. Good luck with the finish!

Tim

[Joe Chritz]

Correct in not using steel wool however synthetic steel wool A.K.A. scotchbrite is fine.

Also I agree that shellac should be plenty for a clock. I would most likely shoot on USL myself after a thin #1 cut shellac as a sealcoat.

Joe