Jig and finishing question

[Ken Fitzgerald]

1. I'm going to make one of the plywood jigs for holding bowls while turning off the tenon on the bottom and finishng the bottom. Can I rough cut the plywood using a jigsaw and then turn the plywood round after it's mounted to the faceplate?

2. I have another 6"x6"x 6" glueup of maple/purpleheart/maple I want to turn into a bowl. Could or should I do the following:

a. wipe on BLO and buff using a paper towel while on the lathe..to pop the grain in maple and the color of the purpleheart.
b. Put on a coat of dewaxed shellac.........
c. follow with a coat or two of lacquer from a spray can
c. buff using the Beal system........

Any advice would be appreciated!

[Glenn Hodges]

1. I'm going to make one of the plywood jigs for holding bowls while turning off the tenon on the bottom and finishng the bottom. Can I rough cut the plywood using a jigsaw and then turn the plywood round after it's mounted to the faceplate?

Sure you can.


2. I have another 6"x6"x 6" glueup of maple/purpleheart/maple I want to turn into a bowl. Could or should I do the following:

a. wipe on BLO and buff using a paper towel while on the lathe..to pop the grain in maple and the color of the purpleheart.
b. Put on a coat of dewaxed shellac.........
c. follow with a coat or two of lacquer from a spray can
c. buff using the Beal system........

Any advice would be appreciated!
The advice I would give you about using lacquer is use the shellac then spray multiple coats with lacquer from a can. I would not use the BLO to pop the grain because the shellac and lacquer will do it. I have quit using the Beal Buffing System on lacquer because it will eat through the lacquer. Others have had success by waiting for about 1 month until the lacquer has had time to cure, and then buffing, but I have had horror stories buffing lacquer. If you need to smooth the lacquer try pumice stone and rottenstone. This combination will give you a smooth glossy finish on lacquer, and you do not have to wait a long time for the lacquer to cure. BTY I use a synthetic steel wool to hand rub the lacquer between the application of each coats where I can feel a nub. This often eliminates the need for futher use of anything after a final spray coat.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ken I agree with Glenn. I use friction polish first (generally a couple of coats) and let that dry. I then follow up with 2 to 4 coats of lacquer. It works for me and gives a nice shine plus pops the grain. Also if you buff after putting lacquer on you risk getting it hot and that melts the lacquer. You will have a mess.

[Mike Vickery]

Ken I agree with Glenn. I use friction polish first (generally a couple of coats) and let that dry. I then follow up with 2 to 4 coats of lacquer. It works for me and gives a nice shine plus pops the grain. Also if you buff after putting lacquer on you risk getting it hot and that melts the lacquer. You will have a mess.

Interesting can I ask what friction polish you use? I though most contained some wax that would be troublesome for the lacquer.

[John Hart]

I agree....spray lacquer is great! (hic)

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use Mylands Friction Polish. I have never had any problems putting lacquer on top of it. I always let the friction polish dry for at least a day.

John you been spraying lacquer again????