What if any polyurenthane can be used over Bullseye shellac?

[Art Davies]

Hello
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I was reading on a past post that you can’t use water based polyurethane over Bullseye shellac, can an oil based polyurethane be used over Bullseye shellac? If not what would be the best way to create a semi gloss finish over the shellac?
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Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for any input you might be able to supply.
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Art Davies

[Richard Gillespie]

It is my understanding that an oil based polyurethane varnish can be used over a shellac if it was de-waxed. Otherwise, there can be adhesion problems.

[Joe Chritz]

Ditto above.

You most likely don't have bullseye sealcoat on but the regular shellac. I am not aware of any finishes that are listed OK over shellac that isn't dewaxed.

Several people have said they have used all kinds of finish and not had problems but I would just shoot a coat of 1# dewaxed shellac (sealcoat) and then finish with whatever finish you like.

If you just want gloss and don't need the abrasion resistance of poly then stay with the shellac and do a french polish. Tons of work, don't spill your shot of jack daniels on it but it looks FINE.

Joe

[Steve Schoene]

I would not recommend using polyurethane, even if the shellac were dewaxed. Traditional resin varnishes will give a nicer look and will adhere just fine to shellac with wax. As far as protectiveness, unless you plan to walk on it polyurethane is not needed.

McCloskey Heirloom, Pratt & Lambert 38, and Waterlox, all have satin versions.

[John Timberlake]

If you just want to get a satin finish, you can knock down the shellac luster with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Then wax to give the look you want. I have put PU over dewaxed shellac on table tops with good results.

[Art Davies]

Thank you for all the help.

Art

[Joe Chritz]

[quote=Steve Schoene]I would not recommend using polyurethane,

I ditto what steve said. The only thing I use polyurethane for anymore is hardwood floors and stair treads. There are to many finishes that look much better, are easier to apply and are just as durable.

The waterlox Steve mentioned is fantastic stuff. I finished a bathroom vanity in it and it still looks wet. Three coats with a foam brush on maple. If you were worried about durability waterlox is what is used on gym floors originally.

Joe

[Howard Acheson]

Not to get into the appearence issue--but, I too, feel that a non-poly finish will give a nicer look--I would like to present this rule:

For any waterborne finish or any oil based poly varnish finish, the underlying shellac coat MUST BE DEWAXED. For standard, non-poly oil based varnish, any shellac can be used.

[Jerry Olexa]

I concur: Must be DEWAXED or Poly will not adhere

[Art Davies]

I would not recommend using polyurethane, even if the shellac were dewaxed. Traditional resin varnishes will give a nicer look and will adhere just fine to shellac with wax. As far as protectiveness, unless you plan to walk on it polyurethane is not needed.

McCloskey Heirloom, Pratt & Lambert 38, and Waterlox, all have satin versions.

Steve Schoene you’re recommendation of Waterlox was right on the money. As well as Joe Chritz recommendation Bullseye Sealcoat.
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Here is what I came up with, I first sand with 220 grit and then wiped down the Bulleye shellac down with mineral sprits to dewax. I then used two coats of Bulleye Sealcoat over the Bulleye shellac and finished with three coats of Waterlox. It looks great, the Waterlox is very nice, I reduced it by about a ¼ and brushed it on. The Waterlox does keep that wet look when even dry. Again thank you for your help.
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Art <O</O