power feeder on a jointer

[Alan Lightstone]

Is there a minimum HP for a power feeder that will work well on a jointer? My 1/2HP unit seems not up to the task.

[Joe Calhoon]

This isn't something often seen, and it's at least worth considering for some work. Of course it doesn't permit the type of finesse work an experienced woodworker can do to flatten a bowed or twisted board while allowing maximum possible thickness, so it's probably only worth considering for reasonably straight stock.

I'd be interested in ideas of a good auxiliary guard to compensate for the required opening made necessary by the feeder width.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvN75oh5AYM

Al, if your guard doesn’t work with the feeder another option would be to remove the front wheel of the feeder so the feeder can cover the cutter head. I usually set my first wheel a few inches behind the head.
Also it’s saves a lot of setup if you can leave the feeder on the machine. My jointer has a feeder mount built in but one could be fabricated easily. I was looking at the Comatic feeder again and noticed they sell a feeder mounting bracket for jointers.

[stephen thomas]

Is there a minimum HP for a power feeder that will work well on a jointer? My 1/2HP unit seems not up to the task.

How fast do you want to go?
What is a horsepower?

The original motor on the factory Billstrom unit on my 16" F & E jointer has a label rating of....1/2HP. It is 3ph, made in USA a long time ago. I typically hand feed a jointer faster than it goes, but it is steady, and not "slow".

OTOH, a 3/4 HP modern Asian roll feeder seems at least twice as powerful as the 1/2 HP versions?

On the 8" wide 2 roller feeder i built long ago to feed a 12" jointer, 1/2 HP USA made gearmotor was adequate at a fairly fast clip.

My guess is that a 3/4 HP Asian feeder would be just about adequate in a shop that was using the feeder at a "git 'er done" pace. In a home shop where the pace might be "lets see if really slow improves the surface finish" (like that guy in a video someone posted. I fell asleep before he finished the board) you could probably get by with a waxed table and 1/2 HP.

[Joe Calhoon]

During the 60s and 70s some German mfgs outfitted their jointers with a split fence and side cutter attachment for edging with a means to mount a power feeder. Now most shops in Europe, even the smallest will have a S4S machine of some type. I believe Holz Her was one of the manufacturers of this attachment.
Many shops I have been in have older jointers with most of this attachment removed as they now have four siders and moulders. First picture. And a couple sales brochures showing jointers equipped with this.
in practice a work piece could be faced and edged with one pass. Then 2 passes through the planer to finish the S4S process.
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[Rod Sheridan]

Is there a minimum HP for a power feeder that will work well on a jointer? My 1/2HP unit seems not up to the task.

I use a 1/2HP feeder on my jointer, 1/2 HP is a lot of power for pushing something at 6 metres per minute.

What's the issue you're having Alan?

Regards, Rod

[John Pendery]

Agree that crown up is is the way to use a feeder on jointer. You can take a hump off crown down by carefully hand feeding but not with the feeder.

My T90 four sider works like the Quatromat and other European feed through moulders. For facing you release pressure on the feed rollers in front of the first bottom head so that the down pressure is after the head. Mine has a 80” infeed table and side fence. Edges straighten very well and facing similar to the jointer where difficult timbers need a hand facing pass on the jointer.

I work a lot of solid wood and this machine had the fastest ROI than any other in my shop.

https://youtu.be/RA-BosQ06Ew?si=G5Scj9a4Y_xmPmmn

Attachment 526740Attachment 526741

That video was great! For the first two minutes I thought I was watching a replay of the last two months of my life. A small S4S machine is high on my list of future machines, but I have zero experience with them and want to get some hands time on with one to understand setup, etc…

[Alan Lightstone]

I use a 1/2HP feeder on my jointer, 1/2 HP is a lot of power for pushing something at 6 metres per minute.

What's the issue you're having Alan?

Regards, Rod

Hmmm. The wood seems to stop moving, especially with the 10/4 white oak if was using. Very heavy pieces. Either the wheels are too low, or too high. I've been using it with the front wheel on the infeed side, so maybe that's part of the problem. I may need to change gears (can't find mine) to change speed. I have no idea what speed it presently is moving at.

[Joe Calhoon]

That video was great! For the first two minutes I thought I was watching a replay of the last two months of my life. A small S4S machine is high on my list of future machines, but I have zero experience with them and want to get some hands time on with one to understand setup, etc…

John, with the T90 there is virtually no setup. It’s a unique design that makes it a great S4S machine but limits its molding capabilities.
It’s different than other European feed though moulders in that it has fixed Teresa heads with insert slots for moulding cutters. Moulding depth is limited to 12 mm and the knives are a specialty item. So as a moulder it is limited but for S4S it is very quick and user friendly for one piece or thousands. My only regret when ordering this was not getting the 5th universal head with a spindle. That would greatly increase moulding capabilities. The Weinig Cube is a similar machine and very compact for small shops. Smaller SCM and Weining 4 head moulders can make good S4S machines with more moulding capabilities but longer setup times.

This company in the Netherlands rebuilds T90s.
https://www.instagram.com/a1machines...ZwYm80OHJ2Yw==

[Jared Sankovich]

Hmmm. The wood seems to stop moving, especially with the 10/4 white oak if was using. Very heavy pieces. Either the wheels are too low, or too high. I've been using it with the front wheel on the infeed side, so maybe that's part of the problem. I may need to change gears (can't find mine) to change speed. I have no idea what speed it presently is moving at.

Do you still have the Original rubber wheels? If so they tend to slip and provide very little grip to actually move parts. Changing them out for poly wheels makes a huge difference.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hmmm. The wood seems to stop moving, especially with the 10/4 white oak if was using. Very heavy pieces. Either the wheels are too low, or too high. I've been using it with the front wheel on the infeed side, so maybe that's part of the problem. I may need to change gears (can't find mine) to change speed. I have no idea what speed it presently is moving at.

Hi, put all the wheels on the outfeed side, wax the jointer tables.

If the feeder wheels are old replace them.

Regards, Rod

[Warren Lake]

if the wheels are those old beige things they are offshore crap, they still sell them, in time they turn into rocks.

[John Pendery]

John, with the T90 there is virtually no setup. It’s a unique design that makes it a great S4S machine but limits its molding capabilities.
It’s different than other European feed though moulders in that it has fixed Teresa heads with insert slots for moulding cutters. Moulding depth is limited to 12 mm and the knives are a specialty item. So as a moulder it is limited but for S4S it is very quick and user friendly for one piece or thousands. My only regret when ordering this was not getting the 5th universal head with a spindle. That would greatly increase moulding capabilities. The Weinig Cube is a similar machine and very compact for small shops. Smaller SCM and Weining 4 head moulders can make good S4S machines with more moulding capabilities but longer setup times.

This company in the Netherlands rebuilds T90s.
https://www.instagram.com/a1machines...ZwYm80OHJ2Yw==

Joe, thanks for the breakdown! Man that Netherlands company has some very cool stuff going on. Especially neat that they rebuild T90’s. The Weinig Cube looks like a nice compact machine. I would ask more questions, but don’t want to totally derail the thread. Hope to pay you a visit one of these days to glean some more knowledge from you on these topics.

[John Pendery]

Hmmm. The wood seems to stop moving, especially with the 10/4 white oak if was using. Very heavy pieces. Either the wheels are too low, or too high. I've been using it with the front wheel on the infeed side, so maybe that's part of the problem. I may need to change gears (can't find mine) to change speed. I have no idea what speed it presently is moving at.

In addition to making the tables more slippery with whatever you like I also find myself cleaning/wiping down the wheels with acetone and it seems to give them a bit more grip. Not sure this is recommended practice, but might be worth trying.

[stephen thomas]

cleaning/wiping down the wheels with acetone and it seems to give them a bit more grip. Not sure this is recommended practice, but might be worth trying.

True Urethane never hardens. I cast rolls for my 20" planer over 30 years ago and they are still the same hardness, compiant, and going strong.

For off the rack, and stuff like feeder rollers, there are more urethane competitors out there these days, but i have been happy with Western Roller corp.

https://westernroller.com/products/super-feed/

[Warren Lake]

friend that did industrial machine stuff and more said he had done urathane wheels past you mix the chemicals pour in a mold now I cant remember if turned them on a lathe after. Know they are urathane companies up here for rollers at least. If a wheel was made in a mold Stephen does it get turned on a lathe after or is it possible it pops out ready to work. Think he said different mixes gave different durometers.