Router table

[Mark Rainey]

Looking for router table. A couple projects I would like to do call for a lot of simple molding. I am a hobby woodworker partial to hand tools but use machines. I am a slow builder. My moldings have been with wooden molding planes, hand planes and scratch stock. I just picked up a Bosch router. And I want a table. I do not want to build one at this time. I am looking at the Kreg full size table for around $600 and the Jessem Ultimate Excel 2 package for $2000. Price is only a minor consideration. My question is: do I start out with the Kreg or do I get the high end Jessem (I am afraid all the features will just make things complicated and confusing ).

[Jimmy Harris]

Are you planning to use it often? Because it doesn't sound to me like you are. So I might not be inclined to spend a bunch of money on something that will mostly collect dust.

Personally, I'm primarily a hand tool user as well. But I do own a Bosch 1617 that gets used a lot. I've thought for years now that I'd need a router table, but every time I've come up with a reason to buy one, I've come up with a solution that avoids buying one that saves me time and money (because I'd have to wait to get the router table bought and installed). So I've yet to run into a situation where a router table was necessary. Usually the fence or a quick jig is all I need. That, and I feel that router tables are a whole lot more dangerous to use than a hand held router, because you've always got both hands on your router and away from the bit when hand held.

All of that being said, I have used a few cheaper and more expensive router tables over the years, and the biggest difference I've seen is the size of the work table and the ease of adjustment. All of the ones I've used seem to be capable of doing the same level of work. It's just the cheaper ones take more fiddling to get you there. There tends to be a lot more locking stuff down and remeasuring and then readjusting.

Like with the Jessem, you get a lift, which should make adjustments quicker and easier, because you don't have to get under the table to access the router to move it. And it also comes with bearings to help hold the work, which should be smoother than feather boards. Plus, it looks better built, and will probably lock down more smoothly and with less creep. So if you plan on doing a lot of work with the router, the Jessem would be my choice, as it'll save you time in the long run. But if you plan on just doing this one project, and then maybe a few other, random projects in the future, I'd save money and get the Kreg. Or maybe something even smaller and cheaper. Like I said, you could do it hand held and get the same results. So the table doesn't really add anything more than convenience and speed.

[Michael Burnside]

My requirements for a router table:

1) good fence
2) good lift
3) flat

Honestly all the fancy stuff is irrelevant to me after that. I have a Sawstop extension wing with the router built in. It's fantastic. Does the fence work well, yep (1). Is the lift smooth, easy to lower-raise and lock, yep (2). Is it flat, yep (3). I have no doubt the Jessem would fit the criteria, they make outstanding stuff, but I can't imagine Kreg not fitting the requirements either. After that, I'd be thinking about a bottom case for dust collection.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Most of us started out with a simple router table, a piece of plywood clamped to work bench, with a piece of hardwood clamped to plywood as a fence. Router mounted directly to plywood. To me best router tables are shop made, as you can add features you want.

[Darrell Bade]

Used a Craftsman table top one for years and then a craftsman floor model for years. Then spent a stupid amount of money and built one with a cast iron top from Rockler, base from Peachtree, incra lift, Jessum fence, micro adjust and hold downs. Do I like it, yep. Does it do stuff the cheaper ones didn't, nope. It sure sets up easier and minor adjustments to tweak a set up are a breeze, I am very happy with it. I say if you gonna jump, jump.

[andy bessette]

First is an old photo of how I setup my table saw/router table/radial arm saw. To the side of my Unisaw I added an old cast iron table saw top, framed in 1"-square aluminum solid bar. Under the repurposed saw table I added a fixed mount for a 3-1/2 hp Stanley router. The Unifence serves both the router and the Unisaw, which cuts to the center of a 96" sheet. The table saw's outfeed table (a solid core door) serves the router and is an extremely useful workbench with vises. The old Craftsman radial arm saw fits right alongside. This has worked so well that I kept the exact setup in my new shop.

[Derek Cohen]

Looking for router table. A couple projects I would like to do call for a lot of simple molding. I am a hobby woodworker partial to hand tools but use machines. I am a slow builder. My moldings have been with wooden molding planes, hand planes and scratch stock. I just picked up a Bosch router. And I want a table. I do not want to build one at this time. I am looking at the Kreg full size table for around $600 and the Jessem Ultimate Excel 2 package for $2000. Price is only a minor consideration. My question is: do I start out with the Kreg or do I get the high end Jessem (I am afraid all the features will just make things complicated and confusing ).

Mark, before you go any further, what type of Bosch router did you purchase? This will decide a lot that follows. There are essentially three types of routers and each used a different router lift. These are a plunge router, a 65mm or 69mm round body (trim router) or a dedicated motor for a router table.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[glenn bradley]

The router model will drive what kind of plate or lift you use. The plate or lift will drive the table type via plate size and corner radii. If the use is that rare I would not give up shop space for a full sized table. I have a dedicated router table but whipped this ting up for occasional secondary profile runs.

Workbench Router Table (17).jpg . Workbench Router Table (7).jpg . Workbench Router Table (22).jpg

It just mounts to the dog holes in the bench and hangs on the wall when not in use. Just an idea.

[Mark Rainey]

Mark, before you go any further, what type of Bosch router did you purchase? This will decide a lot that follows. There are essentially three types of routers and each used a different router lift. These are a plunge router, a 65mm or 69mm round body (trim router) or a dedicated motor for a router table.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, I purchased the Bosch 1617EVS. I think it is a popular model. No plunge attachment.

[Derek Cohen]

Mark, the body of that router should fit one of the router lifts. You need to measure the diameter of the body to choose this. See which makers offer a lift for that model.

I suspect that the Bosch does have an option for it own built-in lift ...

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/pro...165-2610925360

However, if I were you, and you are wanting to put together a quality unit with ease of use, get a dedicated lift.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[George Yetka]

I went straight to a jessem. It is a great router table but for the price you arent getting 100% more quality over a table half the price.

With my limited space I wish I had looked at burying it in my table saw. If that is an option for you I would look at it.

The Jessem I got has a wheel on the side for height adjustment which is pretty great. 1 less tool to keep around.

The fence is great but I think I would look at building a really nice auxilary fence for my table saw if I were to start over.

[James Jayko]

I'm in Philly; I've got a Jess-Em Mast-R-Lift II that I never use (its actually in a storage unit right now). Pass through Clarks Summit all the time; if you are interested in getting a barely used one at a good deal, PM me.

[Mark Rainey]

I'm in Philly; I've got a Jess-Em Mast-R-Lift II that I never use (its actually in a storage unit right now). Pass through Clarks Summit all the time; if you are interested in getting a barely used one at a good deal, PM me.

James, I will PM you.

[Jim Becker]

I've had multiple router table setups over the years. The current one is an (older) BenchDog cast iron top with extension, their lift and an old PC7518 in said lift. The fence is also the same brand. While I had it mounted to the slider on the outfeed side at the old shop, it's an independent station in my current shop using a Rockler stand that was designed to fit that particular cast iron top and their DustRight enclosure around the router for collection. (Rockler bought the BenchDog brand name a few years ago)

That said, what I think is most important is that the table surface is flat and of adequate size for the kind of work you want to do. (mine has an issue with that which I'll speak about in a moment) If you're mostly running just narrow things like moldings, you don't need a lot of real estate. If you are going to be doing a bunch of panel raising, you do need a larger surface to properly support the workpiece. Lately, I've been doing that aforementioned panel raising for a project and the narrowness of the space between the fence/tooling and the edge of the router table is not adequate to do this without totally depending upon my hands and arms to support the workpiece. If I decide to do a lot more projects like this, I'll be considering how to deal with this, either with a table extension of some kind or a different setup. I will also admit that I'm considering adding an additional, portable, small router table type setup that I can clamp to a bench for quick edge treatment on small workpieces...something I can put away in a cabinet and pull out when appropriate to compliment the larger a table.

The fence can be simple but must be able to lock down securely. Being able to vary the width of the opening in the fence to better surround the tool being used is a big benefit for both quality and sometimes even safety. Most of the commercial fences accommodate that as well as have channel to be able to attach and adjust things like featherboards and material guides...that's pretty desirable.

I like having a lift because it's convenient. As has been noted by others, you need to choose a lift that can fit the router body you intend to use. You indicated you had the mid-sized Bosch so Derek's recommendation to measure the body diameter is pretty much necessary so you can choose the correct lift for your router.

To your specific question about whether to purchase the more basic/functional setup and maybe upgrade later or buy the "it slices, it dices" version such as the Jessem you mention, it really comes down to what you want to do and what features are essential or may become essential. While I've always been a fan of maximum functionality and "bells and whistles", that may not be what you want or need. The stock guides that come with the Jessem are a very nice feature but could be added to another table, too, in many cases. Do place value on dust collection...routers are messy tools and a shop vac will not cut it, IMHO. Also, the Jessem ultimate is geared toward a 15 amp router motor body which is larger than the router you own, so you'll need to confirm that they can provide a reducer sleeve to fit the Bosch router you have.

[Tom Levy]

Mast-r-lift ii adjusts to a variety of router body diameters and 1617 is one of the supported ones. I'd take James up on his offer, that's the top of the line option and it sounds like free delivery to boot!