Timber framing bandsaws - Do you ever use it on projects besides timber framing?

[andrew whicker]

Hi,

I got recommended for a pavilion / gazebo build from my pergola builds. The pergolas I built were small enough that I could cut the ogee's, etc with a jig saw and long blade. If I were to do this project with anything but straight lines, I would need a portable bandsaw. Given that I only get jobs like this once every few years, you can imagine that $8k seems a bit steep for a tool specific to that work. I could easily spend $8k on much more useful tools (or just pay myself).

So I wonder if anyone that has one ever uses it beyond timber framing or are they very specific to timber framing only?

Thanks much,

[Phillip Mitchell]

Assuming you're talking about something like this?

https://www.timberwolftools.com/mafe...table-band-saw

I've used one pretty extensively when I worked in a timber framing shop for several years. From a timber framing perspective, it is extremely useful and accurate enough to use it to cut joinery - tenons, notches, etc - not only curved work, but I don't know if I ever used it on anything other than timber frame-specific work. I don't see the value unless you are a full time timber frame shop.

Can you not plan to cut corbels, brace arches, etc in your shop with a woodworking bandsaw? What dimensions are the timber pieces you're talking about?

Or if you really needed it I would look for a used one or put up a WTB ad somewhere like theforestryforum.com and score one for half price or less compared to new and then sell it after the project...unless you're getting into timber framing....or better yet, network a bit with a local timber framing shop and see if you can rent / borrow one for a day or whatever.

Edit: If you have control over the design, just don't design the ends of rafters or super long and chunky timbers with curved elements. I've always like shallower angles, etc compared to scroll type work personally, but it really just depends on the design.

[andrew whicker]

The corbels will be on the end of 6x12's that are 17 ft long.. I don't see how a stationary bandsaw would work. And, yes, I was looking at Mafell. There is a cheap looking Oliver for 2.5K, and a meh looking Hema for 6.5k or the Mafell for 8k. Just seems like at those price points you might as well go big or go home.

My thought was to also ask around for other timber framers. I also thought of the used route or buy and then sell.

[Edward Weber]

+1 on what Phillip said.
Here is a knock off that costs much less. It may be good enough for the occasional use.
https://www.toolorbit.com/everett-po...w?gad_source=1

[Jim Becker]

"Right tool for the job" is always a good thing, especially for paying work. Yea, that's not inexpensive. You might look into what the resale market is for something like that so if you decide not to continue doing this beyond the job you have on the table, you can ascertain what it's going to cost you to "rent" it, as it were for the duration by buying and then reselling. There are one or more timber framers here at SMC I believe...perhaps they might be of help around that kind of information if you can track them down.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Those videos of CNC bandsaws come to mind. A portable CNC bandsaw that clamps to the beam would be a neat invention. Its s too bad budgets force themselves to be considered.

https://youtube.com/shorts/SXWYl61dl...ZCYZBi5VzyYoOg

[Edward Weber]

The articulated saws are nice too, but again that pesky budget

[Richard Coers]

Can't imagine they sell very many of those a year. Keeping inventory is pretty expensive.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Is there a router capable of cutting 3 inches deep? I wonder if one could be used in conjunction with a clever guide fixture that could be clamped to either side of the 6 X 12 (using multiple passes and meeting in the middle).

https://www.grizzly.com/products/dew...e-router/g3497

https://toolstoday.com/v-11468-45477...xoCdFYQAvD_BwE

[andrew whicker]

Is there a router capable of cutting 3 inches deep? I wonder if one could be used in conjunction with a clever guide fixture that could be clamped to either side of the 6 X 12 (using multiple passes and meeting in the middle).

https://www.grizzly.com/products/dew...e-router/g3497

https://toolstoday.com/v-11468-45477...xoCdFYQAvD_BwE

Yeah, this is probably the way to go. I may just use straight cuts and spend some money instead on a timber dolly and a 16" circular saw. I have a 10 1/4" circular saw already. Could also use that and save $1k. Last time I cut the 8x8 timbers by cutting all four sides at max depth with my 10.25" saw and then cut the middle out with my handsaw.

[brent stanley]

Andrew, timberframing is one of the things I do for a living and I've had a chance to use the Mafell bandsaw extensively. It was a bit of a let down to be honest. After talking to othe owners about it, I learned nobody uses it for joinery, it's really only good for roughing out curves and even they often need to be cleaned up afterwards. So despite the price tag, it's still only a rough tool but it's sometimes the only practical tool all the same for some cuts.

[andrew whicker]

Interesting. I saw some people say that online when I was looking into as well.

Honestly, I'm going to use hardware as much as possible and while I'm comfortable making shoulders and notches I don't think I'll go beyond that (I'd like to stay away from using pins). Maybe the next project. I do see a used chain mortiser for $600 which seems reasonable if I did want to make a few M&T's.

[Patrick Kane]

Damn, that is sad to hear. The mafell bandsaw has been on my list for many years now. Ive seen many used ones in the $3500 range, but that is still very pricey for how often i would use it. Also, Mafell stings in the US, because Timberwolf gouges the US consumer. The Z5Ec is 4200 in the UK. Even if we convert that to dollars, it is $5,600. Why is Timberwolf $2,000 more for the same product, i wonder? UK configurations are 230v or 120v.

I havent used the saw, but my primary interest in it is for tenon cheeks. A fixed track saw like the mafell kss with the bandsaw seemed like a deadly fast combo for knocking out large tenons.

To answer your initial question, i dont think it will have too many applications for furniture making. It isnt a replacement for a good stationary bandsaw, and 90% of workpieces can easily be taken to the stationary bandsaw. Potential uses im imagining are cutting a large sweeping curve in a large dining/conference table. Moving a 16' table through a stationary bandsaw would be difficult/impossible. You could make this cut with a jigsaw(i did on my folks' 14'+ table), but the Z5ec bandsaw would be a better tool with less cleanup.

[Steve Jenkins]

What if you mounted a standard bandsaw on a 4 Wheel dolly and made some sawhorses the appropriate height for the bandsaw then you could move the saw instead of the stock. In the field a sheet or two of 3/4” plywood on the ground would make a flat surface for the dolly.

[Phillip Mitchell]

Andrew, timberframing is one of the things I do for a living and I've had a chance to use the Mafell bandsaw extensively. It was a bit of a let down to be honest. After talking to othe owners about it, I learned nobody uses it for joinery, it's really only good for roughing out curves and even they often need to be cleaned up afterwards. So despite the price tag, it's still only a rough tool but it's sometimes the only practical tool all the same for some cuts.

I have had the opposite experience with the Mafell bandsaw, but only after a tune up on the saw, proper tensioning and not being timid on blade changes at the first signs of degradation (a thing with all bandsaws it seems...) and a short tutorial from the owner of Timberwolf Tools (many years ago now...can't remember his name...) Prior to this it was designated for curved work and joinery cuts were not attempted or reliable.

It is typically advertised for scroll / curved work and I'm sure that's what 99.9% use it for, but I found it extremely versatile, as accurate as the reference surface it was bearing on (even at 12" thick cuts), and a huge time saver on certain tenoning and notching work once the saw was tuned and dialed. Of course, circular saws and handsaws can do this work as well, but in with a big frame to cut with a lot of straight tenons / end notches, etc it was a game changing tool to have around in a timber framing shop. Just my experience.

I will try and hunt down some old photos of different joinery cuts I made. A lot of these shoulder / crosscuts would have likely been made with a beam saw but many of the rip / cheek / notched cuts were made with the Mafell bandsaw; some of these are 12x tall.

All of this aside - the answer to the original question in the thread is still No, not very useful or valuable outside of a timber framing context, imo.