Car tire ?

[Brian Runau]

I have a set of Yokohama YK7410 GTX on my wife's Toyota. Put on in 2019. Tire says 60,000 miles. As a salesman I drove company cars most of my career and know little other than where to take them for service!

We got a nail in one of her tires yesterday. It was borderline in the sidewall even though the nail was in the tread, but close to being within 1/2 of the edge of the tread, so being careful we chose to replace it and since they have 30,000 miles on them we put two tires on. I'm OK with this no one's fault, just life.

Tire dealer is saying she has 5/32 & 6/32 left on the other tires and they suggest replacing them at 4/32. Tread depth started at 10/32. So I only had 6/32 of tread life when they were new and used say 80% of that, even though I only have 30,000 miles on a set of 60,000 mile tires. I am confused by this. Also is 4/32 normal to replace tires at?

The original tire was a YK740 GTX and they put YK GTX all season on so I have two & two not four of the same kind of tire. Is this an issue?

Thanks.

Brian

[Jason Roehl]

It kind of depends on the type of driving you do, and what your risk comfort level is.

We had to put tires on our '17 Explorer Sport two years ago. Six months prior, there was probably 3-4/32" tread, but my wife said it felt a little wiggly. I drove it later in the summer in the rain once, and immediately started looking into tires--they're wide, and the only saving grace on wet roads at that point was the traction control. For all I know, they could have been down to 2/32", which is the traditional replacement tread depth. I see you're in Indy, so your weather is similar to ours. The tires should have wear bands across them in several places--look for bumps in the deepest part of the grooves, all in a line across the width of the tire. If the tread is level with those bands, it's definitely time to replace. If it's close, then I'd go by how the vehicle is handling on wet or snowy/icy pavement.

The second factor is age. Five-year-old tires are considered old. Some would even automatically replace them at that age. The rubber compounds harden, making them less grippy, especially when it's cold outside. Personally, I don't have a problem with 10-year-old tires, as long as they have tread, don't show signs of dry rot or cracking, and it's not used regularly for heavy-haul or performance.

[Brian Runau]

It kind of depends on the type of driving you do, and what your risk comfort level is.

We had to put tires on our '17 Explorer Sport two years ago. Six months prior, there was probably 3-4/32" tread, but my wife said it felt a little wiggly. I drove it later in the summer in the rain once, and immediately started looking into tires--they're wide, and the only saving grace on wet roads at that point was the traction control. For all I know, they could have been down to 2/32", which is the traditional replacement tread depth. I see you're in Indy, so your weather is similar to ours. The tires should have wear bands across them in several places--look for bumps in the deepest part of the grooves, all in a line across the width of the tire. If the tread is level with those bands, it's definitely time to replace. If it's close, then I'd go by how the vehicle is handling on wet or snowy/icy pavement.

The second factor is age. Five-year-old tires are considered old. Some would even automatically replace them at that age. The rubber compounds harden, making them less grippy, especially when it's cold outside. Personally, I don't have a problem with 10-year-old tires, as long as they have tread, don't show signs of dry rot or cracking, and it's not used regularly for heavy-haul or performance.

Thanks Jason, Being retired we don't drive a lot, honestly never did when we were working. To and from work, errands on the weekends. I used to sell oil seals for Chicago Rawhide and their compounding for the rubber gave an estimated life of 3 years in an unconditioned warehouse space, but thought tire guys compounded differently to allow for drivers like us. Guess not! Oh the things I'm learning in retirement when I have time to spend more time on it VS solve the problem NEXT!

Thanks.

Brian

[John M Wilson]

It's the only part of your car that touches the road - every bit of braking and cornering comes from your tires.

They are wear items, meant to be replaced. You are going to replace them eventually, unless you sell the car.

Saving a couple of bucks now could cost you down the road.

I'd replace all 4 and rest easier at night.

[Nathan Johnson]

There are a lot of factors that play into tire longevity. Suspension components, alignment, inflation, road surface, age, blah blah blah. I don't think I've ever reached the listed mileage for a set of tires, but I am insistent on having traction/grip being that the tires are the only thing touching the road. I'd much rather pay for tires a bit sooner than hydroplane or get squirrely in the winter and deal with car repairs and insurance.

[Jim Becker]

With that many miles on them, I'd have replaced all four. That's required for full time AWD vehicles like I drive and still a good practice for both part time AWD as well as FWD/RWD vehicles because you'll end up with an imbalance when you do your first cross rotation. It's also a best practice to have identical tires on all four corners because even minor variations in tread patterns can cause some "fun". Personally, I also start looking at replacement when 5/32 comes around because the lower you go, the more risk you introduce for hydroplaning, etc.

Nathan is correct to say that we shouldn't ever expect to get those long treadwear life "promises" that come with premium tires. We can be happy when driving conditions, etc., actually allow for that, but with tires it's not always about tread wear life. It's also about how traction and noise changes as you get farther into the tread. Some tires perform better in that respect and others...you start using certain bad words like "what the heck" when suddenly you're slipping noticeably on a wet curve or hearing those tires hum even on really smooth pavement. (I had a set of Nitto NT21Q tires on a previous vehicle that were like that. Highly rated, but right at about 30K, they got noisy and slippery)

[Brian Runau]

With that many miles on them, I'd have replaced all four. That's required for full time AWD vehicles like I drive and still a good practice for both part time AWD as well as FWD/RWD vehicles because you'll end up with an imbalance when you do your first cross rotation. It's also a best practice to have identical tires on all four corners because even minor variations in tread patterns can cause some "fun". Personally, I also start looking at replacement when 5/32 comes around because the lower you go, the more risk you introduce for hydroplaning, etc.

Nathan is correct to say that we shouldn't ever expect to get those long treadwear life "promises" that come with premium tires. We can be happy when driving conditions, etc., actually allow for that, but with tires it's not always about tread wear life. It's also about how traction and noise changes as you get farther into the tread. Some tires perform better in that respect and others...you start using certain bad words like "what the heck" when suddenly you're slipping noticeably on a wet curve or hearing those tires hum even on really smooth pavement. (I had a set of Nitto NT21Q tires on a previous vehicle that were like that. Highly rated, but right at about 30K, they got noisy and slippery)

In my career I worked in a technical industrial product field with engineers as a salesman and then customers as a product manager. I'm very detailed oriented because you can't get it wrong.... This is how my brain works, so when a manufacturer supplies information and my brain can't make sense of it then.....So it's rated as a 60,000 mile tire, but you should replace them every five years regardless of mileage and you'll probably will only get 30,000 miles out of them.... You can appreciate the cognitive dissonance this creates in my brain. Take care. Brian

[Jim Becker]

I do understand, Brian, especially since I transitioned from doing a whole lot more miles prior to retirement and for a bit when the 'rents were still alive in central Florida, but now I drive a lot less. I put 8000 miles on between the beginning of August 2023 and the end of July 2024 on the brand new vehicle I bought then. I'm also one of those folks that tends to get more miles on things like tires and brakes because of how I drive. So I appreciate that the idea of dumping "perfectly good tires" before they are "all used up" is painful, but I overcome that by remembering the reasons which largely center around safety. That reminds me...I really need to change the tires on my utility trailer. They are really, really, really overdue. LOL

[Brian Runau]

Jim: I don't mind buying tires, minor expense in the scheme of things and I certainly wouldn't risk safety to save a buck. What bothers me is the lack of a real standard and practice in the industry. If I really wanted to get in the weeds I could research the standard in the industry they use to determine mileage on tires for publication, but even though I am retired I do have a life and age has taught me to no longer go down every rabbit hole I run across. Brian

[Kent A Bathurst]

........... lack of a real standard and practice in the industry. If I really wanted to get in the weeds I could research the standard in the industry they use to determine mileage...........

Brian - how long is a string? I guarantee you that the mileage I get today out of tire brand/spec XXX is at least triple that when I first got my BMW in the way-back. With the sport suspension. The product performance is too dependent on the "idiot" factor for precision.

Everything about an automobile's performance and safety is focused on performance at those four contact patches/footprints. No compromise allowed, IMO

There's a similarity to my ethos on wiper blades. The only time you know for sure that your wiper blade refills need to be replaced is when you REALLY need them to be in good shape. Its too late then.

Therefore, over many decades, my rule has always been "change the oil and at that same service change the wipers". That way, I could be confident that everyone in the family could see the road in the rain. Threw out many sets of blade refills that definitely had a few more monsoons left in them. Happily.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

We had a tire damaged with only 19,000 miles on them and the vehicle in May. We were 1200 miles from home. Where it was damaged, neither of 2 tire shops recommended repairing it. We replaced all 4 tires (kept the vehicle). Living in a mountainous region with a known history of snow, I want all 4 tires to have the same tread pattern. As I age, I need all the help I can get including eliminating potential sources of poor traction when I need it.

I am with my friend, Kent, don't wait until you realize you need them, tires, wipers, etc.

[Sam Force]

What gets me is the PSI for tires. Vehicle manufacturer wants less PSI for a better ride. Tire manufacturer wants higher PSI for longer life. As s former employee of Bridgestone/Firestone I go with the higher PSI. Recently needed to replace one due to nail in the sidewall. With 50,000 miles I still had 9/32 left on all 4 tires

[Jason Roehl]

What gets me is the PSI for tires. Vehicle manufacturer wants less PSI for a better ride. Tire manufacturer wants higher PSI for longer life. As s former employee of Bridgestone/Firestone I go with the higher PSI. Recently needed to replace one due to nail in the sidewall. With 50,000 miles I still had 9/32 left on all 4 tires

Those are some really hard tires!

I remember many years ago when I was a dirt-poor college student. I had just bought a used '88 Mercury Sable, and needed to put tires on it. I thought I would bite the bullet and get some 80,000 mile tires so that I would never have to put tires on it again. The first time I had to drive it in snow, I realized that was a huge mistake--those tires were so hard to get that 80,000 mile life that they had next to no grip in the snow. But, we managed with it for a couple more years until we got rid of that car (I don't miss it...never had to put so much work into a vehicle).

I just replaced the tires on my motorcycle this year--at 20,000 miles. They still had plenty of tread left, but the bike is an '18 model year, and still had the original tires. I had slipped the back wheel a little a few times, and we were getting ready to take the bike on a long trip, so I had them swapped out for new.

[Brian Runau]

Brian - how long is a string? I guarantee you that the mileage I get today out of tire brand/spec XXX is at least triple that when I first got my BMW in the way-back. With the sport suspension. The product performance is too dependent on the "idiot" factor for precision.

The weeds. Mileage rating is not really an expected mileage life or anythign close to it, but based on an industry standard test. So all the consumer can really do is say a tire with 20,000 mile rating vs a 80,000 mile rating is better overall quality, but the actual mileage rating listed is not a reference to any expected or close to expected life of the tire.

https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-49/subtitle-B/chapter-V/part-575/subpart-B/section-575.104

Brian

[Ron Citerone]

Those are some really hard tires!

I remember many years ago when I was a dirt-poor college student. I had just bought a used '88 Mercury Sable, and needed to put tires on it. I thought I would bite the bullet and get some 80,000 mile tires so that I would never have to put tires on it again. The first time I had to drive it in snow, I realized that was a huge mistake--those tires were so hard to get that 80,000 mile life that they had next to no grip in the snow. But, we managed with it for a couple more years until we got rid of that car (I don't miss it...never had to put so much work into a vehicle).

I just replaced the tires on my motorcycle this year--at 20,000 miles. They still had plenty of tread left, but the bike is an '18 model year, and still had the original tires. I had slipped the back wheel a little a few times, and we were getting ready to take the bike on a long trip, so I had them swapped out for new.

Yes, bought some long mileage tires way back when. They were very hard and spun easily in rain or snow. I suppose that is the trade off.

Brian my opinion on your situation is, if money is not an issue, I would replace all four tires. Back when I didn't have 2 nickels to rub together I would have fixed the tire and tried to get more mileage out of them. In my "Golden Years" I put safety and possible hassle before the money. My 2 cent opinion.