Hardwood plywood back panel wider than 48”

[Dave Rosner]

Building a built in closet and one of the sections is 5’ wide to hold hanging clothes. I’m using walnut plywood and solid walnut face frames. For the back panel that’s 5’ I’ll have to but up together 2 pieces of plywood if I want the grain direction to run vertical. Do I just have to live with the seam between them or is there some technique I’m not thinking about here? I think I’d prefer a small visible seam to adding a 1/2” trim piece but those may be my only 2 options.

[Jerry Bruette]

If your back panel is thicker than quarter inch making bevel cuts on both pieces and gluing the seam might help hide it.

[Ralph Boumenot]

Have you considered making the back a frame and panel instead of a solid plywood one?

[Lee Schierer]

You can carefully narrow rabbets on the mating edges to over lap and glue the two pieces of wood. I have done this a few times. The seam will still be visible due to grain differences, but it will be less noticeable than a non-glued butt joint.

[roger wiegand]

Unless your plywood uses rotary cut veneer (a poor choice for walnut, IMO) you already have seams between the veneer leaves on the ply. A careful butt or scarf joint reinforced on the back side with a thin strip of plywood should result in a non-obvious joint.

I'd make such a wide back with frame and panel construction with at least two plywood panels and a frame element in the middle to help keep everything flat.

[Dave Rosner]

These are some great suggestions! Inthink simple frame and panel is way to go….

[Jimmy Harris]

Or, instead of trying to hide the seam, you could highlight it. Create a narrow piece of trim that runs between the two out of some contrasting or complimentary wood. And it doesn't have to cover and overlap the plywood. You could treat it like an inlay and plane it flush with the plywood. Turn a flaw into a nice detail.

[Mike Wilkins]

Another vote here for a frame and panel back. Makes it look classy and more furniture-like.