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Thread: Cast Iron Protection?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Cast Iron Protection?

    Sorry guys, my questions is coming from my needs. I was wondering what y’all use for a protective coating for your cast iron? Such as your TS, planner, in my case jointer. In years past I would use Minwax paste to help from rusting and kinda keep top slick. I would also use baby powder to slick up top on TS. I will and am digging out my machines to get back into woodworking plus help build my 1000sq ft retirement home. So I am out of paste or just can’t find it around house, so since I’m in market, what do y’all use, yep high humidity is always year round problem.

  2. #2
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I use Boeshield T9.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    I be dang, Jim I was thinking I had read that some place but couldn’t remember. Best part is I have some, so yahooooo. Thanks made my day

  4. #4
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    Sep 2016
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    Johson's paste wax is no longer made. I buy it at yard sales.
    I wonder how Dupont Chain Saver lube would work? It is wax in a spray can. I use it to lube sliding surfaces
    Regardless make sure whatever you use has no silicone. Any slight silicone contamination will cause finishing issues.
    Bill D
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 08-10-2024 at 11:02 AM.

  5. #5
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    Bill I was wondering why I haven’t seen Minwax at HD. I had can of it for years but can’t find it

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I use Boeshield T9.
    Me too, every fall. Then in the spring i add a light coat of Johnson's Paste Wax--still have about 3/4 of a can left.

  7. #7
    I prefer Trewax. Though still have cans of Johnsons sometimes used on machines. J brand stinks to high heaven, and then my hands do too, even through a couple washings.

    digging out my machines to get back into woodworking plus help build my 1000sq ft retirement home.


    That's fine for the home.
    Hope you are able to go bigger for the shop!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    Cambridge Vermont
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    I use magnetic sign material for car doors. Another member here suggested it and it works great. Plus there's not residue on the cast iron that can contaminate the wood. Any moisture that forms does so on top of the vinyl and is easy to wipe off. It's just hard to find in widths over 24". Because of that I put plastic sheeting down on my table saw and then put two pieces butted together.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Both of these work well for me since Johnsons went off the market. T9 seemed to leave a gummy residue on my cast iron so I quit using it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
    Any experience with Veritas Tool Wax available at Lee Valley? https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...x?item=05Z1601

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Dana, Masachusetts
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    I use a dehumidifier, an air conditioner, and a furnace. The moisture content of my shop needs to be such that the wood isn't gaining water. If the cast iron ever started rusting, all the stuff I'm building for other people would be soaking wet. Joints would open up after stuff left the shop.

    I use chunks of Gulf wax to scribble on tables to make stock feed better. Wax on the tables, and isopropyl alcohol on the feeder wheels.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hayward View Post
    Both of these work well for me since Johnsons went off the market. T9 seemed to leave a gummy residue on my cast iron so I quit using it.
    Yup. That's what I use for tables and such. It hardens well, so it lasts a long time and doesn't easily wear off. Plus it remains slick and works as a wood finish, so it pulls double duty.

    I also use WD-40 Corrosion Inhibitor for other stuff. That stuff is absolutely amazing and protecting metal, but it leaves and oily residue that will stain wood, so you need to remember to whipe it off first. So I don't use it for tables and stuff. But spray it on a wrench and you can leave it in the yard for a few months and come back to find it still rust free.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    I use CRC Industrial 3-36. I live in Florida, so humidity is 1000% (with the days and days of westerly winds after Hurricane Debby, humidity has been brutal down here), but my shop is climate controlled with good split AC system.

    That being said, I've used it for years, and it works pretty well at preventing rust. I first started using it after it won Fine Woodworking's rust prevention test:

    https://www.finewoodworking.com/2012...ust-preventers
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  14. #14
    Have you considered a car wax in lieu of a floor wax? Those are designed to dry and polish out without leaving sticky residue. There are non-abrasive Carnuba wax formulations out there.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by John C Cox View Post
    Have you considered a car wax in lieu of a floor wax? Those are designed to dry and polish out without leaving sticky residue. There are non-abrasive Carnuba wax formulations out there.
    Most car waxes have silicone! Silicone contamination will cause fisheye in finishes like paint and varnish. On a saw not enough transfer to cause glue problems
    Bill D

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