9/32 hinge bit for shelf pin sleeves?

[Stephen Tashiro]

A typical shelf pin sleeve (https://www.amazon.com/WIDGETCO-Bras...91&sr=8-9&th=1 ) for 1/4 inch shelf pins requires a 9/32 hole. If I want to drill those holes using a commercial hole jig, I need a 9/32 " hinge bit. Where can I get such a thing?

[stephen thomas]

I'm not really familiar with your application?
Does "hinge bit" denote something specific?

If I want to drill those holes using a commercial hole jig, I need a 9/32 " hinge bit.

Are you looking for a screw machine length drill?
Or a double end stubby?
Or are you looking for something with an integral counterbore?

I've made sets of split sleeves for many of the collets in my gang drill, and often run screw machine drills - they are even available RH & LH if your drills alternate counter rotation.

Say a little more about the specific requirements?

smt

[Cary Falk]

What about a router bit, router and a router template guide. Just another option. I don't know which commercial jig you are using. I have a Woodpecker shelf pin jig and use a plunge router. I prefer a router over a drill but that is just me.

[Bill Dufour]

I use a microstop countersink cage and a jig for the larger foot of the cage.
BilLD

[James Tibbetts]

Maybe I'm not understanding the problem correctly, but it seems to me a 9/32 brad point bit should work well. A stop collar on it should make it quick and easy with a jig.
The reference picture doesn't look like any special type of bit would be required.

[Stephen Tashiro]

I'm not really familiar with your application?
Does "hinge bit" denote something specific?

t

A hinge bit is a bit with a sleeve that guides the drill to the center of a hole in the plate of a hinge. https://www.amazon.com/Self-Centerin...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

A hinge bit does not involve countersinking since the holes in the plate of a hing are already countersunk.

[stephen thomas]

A hinge bit is a bit with a sleeve that guides the drill to the center of a hole in the plate of a hinge. https://www.amazon.com/Self-Centerin...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

A hinge bit does not involve countersinking since the holes in the plate of a hing are already countersunk.

Interesting - everyone i knew called them Vix bits.
However, i see that "hinge" bits do have a bit more adjustability AFA the sleeve position..

Are you looking for this one?

https://www.rockler.com/9-32-pro-shelf-drilling-bit

Now i'm all curious how you go about drilling shelf pin holes with one - what does the machine or pattern look like?

(I use a gang drill - 37 holes at once, then step over with the index pin. That is what i made bushings to use RH & LH screw machine bits for.
Or if the plan is to drill after the case is assembled, shop made ply jig with steel bushings, various sizes. Collar on the bit.)

smt

Edited - OK, found a Rockler video. Interesting concept.
Not that i'll likely do site work much anymore, but makes it easy to imagine knocking out lexan guides on the gang drill, for retro-fit apps in the field, which i have had to do with my various steel sleeved jigs.

[Lee Schierer]

Steve, I've built a number of items with shelf clips, some of which supported pretty heavy loads.
Screenshot 2024-08-09 075620.jpg
I have always drilled 1/4" holes for 1/4" pins. I've never used those brass sleeves and I've never had an issue with the shelf clips becoming loose.

[Stephen Tashiro]

Are you looking for this one?

https://www.rockler.com/9-32-pro-shelf-drilling-bit

Yes, but that page says "no longer available".

[Bill Dufour]

If the wood is thick enough use a piloted drill bit. Have you grinder make one with a short non cutting pilot. Since the pilot is non cutting you could grind it yourself. Even if the pilot ends up having flutes.
Bill D.

[Rod Sheridan]

A typical shelf pin sleeve (https://www.amazon.com/WIDGETCO-Bras...91&sr=8-9&th=1 ) for 1/4 inch shelf pins requires a 9/32 hole. If I want to drill those holes using a commercial hole jig, I need a 9/32 " hinge bit. Where can I get such a thing?

Lee Valley should have a Brad point bit that size.

Regards, Rod

[stephen thomas]

If the wood is thick enough use a piloted drill bit. Have you grinder make one with a short non cutting pilot.

That is an interesting option.
I make step- and integral piloted- drills at the drop of a hat for various ops.
(the R.A. Machine fixture cams, for axial relief - ideal for step drills)
DSC_0003.jpgDSC_0004.jpg

For the proposed enlargement in wood, there is too much land left after grinding only 1/64" per lip off the 9/32" drill; cut short, it might not guide as reliably as a solid pilot.

An interchangeable piloted counterbore could be a simpler option. I would hand stone the cutting lips to have a slight chamfer (While maintaining radial relief); and possibly stone the face flat - both features to reduce tear-out in wood.



This one shows a generic photo of an integral reduced/pilot but the text says it is interchangeable.
https://drillsandcutters.com/1-4-9-3...AaAsH1EALw_wcB

This one shows the size and hole:
https://drillsandcutters.com/9-32-x-...4aAt6MEALw_wcB

However, OP needs the facility to take a 1/4" dowel pin for the pilot, and reduce the shank concentrically to 3/32" to fit the CS bore. Then cut it for however short he wants to use, and slightly chamfer the nose.
Plus maybe make a sleeve collar for the tool as an adjustable stop.

Steve/OP - what is the hole diameter of your fixture? You could have a steel bushing made and just use a 9/32" drill, with a stop. Often, when i do that, i make the pilot long enough that the drill stop can be fastened on the shank (not the flutes), so it holds better and does not drift. Alternately, make the stop a long sleeve, with the set screw up at the top to bear on the drill shank. It is nice if the drill bushing itself is long enough that the drill need only be retracted, not removed completely and restarted every time.

[John Pendery]

Funny timing, I was just looking to see if line boring bits were available to accommodate these sleeves in either a 5mm or 1/4” flavor. Customer wants adjustable shelf holes drilled on a really nice quarter sawn sapele library I’m doing and was looking for ways to have a better looking end product.

[Stephen Tashiro]

Steve/OP - what is the hole diameter of your fixture? You could have a steel bushing made and just use a 9/32" drill, with a stop. Often, when i do that, i make the pilot long enough that the drill stop can be fastened on the shank (not the flutes), so it holds better and does not drift. Alternately, make the stop a long sleeve, with the set screw up at the top to bear on the drill shank. It is nice if the drill bushing itself is long enough that the drill need only be retracted, not removed completely and restarted every time.

I admire your metalworking skills, but I don't have such talents. I can consult a local machine shop if it comes to that. However I'm hoping to find such a bit for sale.