[OP]
Contributor
Guys I need to make door frames out of 2x6x 10’ Douglas Fir. I need these to stay up against fence so won’t have wavy cut. I’ll be ripping with 2x6 is on edge full 10’ length. I’m not up date on latest and greatest. Looking for suggestions on what works for you.
[OP]
Contributor
I look on YouTube, I see now what brands there are available.
Contributor
Incredibly easy to make from hardwood.
Friend of the Creek
Joint the edge that goes against the fence. I don't find much difference in any of the brands, although the Shop Fox hardwood kind seems to have more spring.
Regards,
Tom
Contributor
I had some spare money one Christmas and figured I try the Magswitch.
It works fine. I'd buy another one if something happened to mine.
I also sprung for the Sommerfeld featherboard.
I absolutely love this thing! I would buy another in a heartbeat if anything happened to mine - - plus- - I would shut down using my router table doing what I was doing at the time until the new one came. AND, I might even pay for expedited shipping.
I only use this on the router table - not the table saw.
I made a few sets from scrap wood. I never liked using them. They either had to much or too little spring. I quit making them after I was in Menards one day and saw a plastic featherboard on sale for $0.00 after rebate. I picked on up and still use it.
My wife was ordering some crap from Temu so I had her add some JessEm wheel knock-offs to her order.
I haven't used them yet. I'm still mulling over how best to mount them and what possible best use they might be.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
Contributor
wood offcuts as they showed us. Work well, you control spring by how you cut them and how you load them when you set up.
Member
If looking to make something nice, Steven Woodward's idea of using sprung loaded gate hinges looks rather nifty.
With adjustable pressure via tensioner feature, and the large throw, it's a wonder I don't see more doing the same.
Screenshot-2024-8-7 Steven Woodward.jpg
Pictured above
https://i.postimg.cc/28StX8Tb/Screen...n-Woodward.png
Or the link to the video instead
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUPZONNRpGo
Looks quite possibly the best I've seen...
Edit: to add that's a job for the bandsaw, just mentioning the hinges, as they look very versatile.
There's been a requirement across the pond to have a shaw guards on top of the work for non through cuts on the TS
so best to post that for clarity also.
Here's a screenshot from Roy Sutton's old video, of him making a trench cut, (whilst he also mentions through cuts on the TS isn't allowed)
Screenshot-2022-9-30 Safe Wood Machining by Roy Sutton - YouTube(1).jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/G3Nr0mhf/Screen...You-Tube-1.png
Here's the video on YT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_XOvqatdNU&t=607s
Cheerio
Tom
Last edited by Tom Trees; 08-07-2024 at 3:04 PM. Reason: Safety needs highlighting to my post.
Contributor
I've been using the Bow products feather boards for years now, they work great IME.
https://bow-products.com/product/fea...-featherboard/
Contributor
I got a set of woodstock board-buddies a few decades ago when they first came out.
They are not really very well made, but do function fairly well if set up optimally.
Made T-nuts to fit in the OEM T-slot of the SCMI saw and milled the screw slots of the board buddies (could be filed with a rat-tail) so they could be biased at an angle for better grip toward the fence.
Made a T-slot channel to also use them on the unisaw fence.
Not used for every job, but they are convenient when doing a lot of solo ripping. Especially to finish dimension.
Being directly attached to the fence, they don't bias (push on) it at all.
However, they will lift it, if the board is over-thick for the current setting and the fence does not have outboard hold-down. The SCM fence is rugged enough that with a little extra pressure on the front cam-clamp, usually it is fine. I put a clamp on the other end when it might matter.
Later, running a bunch of moderately small parts on the pin router, i got another set without the anti-kickback bearings. (Green wheels, will roll either direction).
For production stuff, and for the shaper, i mostly just use a power feeder. Often augmented with shop made wooden or solid UHMW featherboards.
The problem with set ups that apply pressure outboard of the cut (like Tom Tree's) is that they can't be placed to control the tail of the cut, where kick-backs usually initiate. (the leading edge of the board, as opposed to the trailing edge, diverges from the fence).
Contributor
I use Bow Products FeatherPRO. It does an excellent job. The large fingers flex smoothly. Long narrow splines on conventional fingerboards tend to "jitter" in use.
Having said that, I can see why the Sommerfield is so attractive for the poster above.
But I'd definitely avoid bought or shop-made long spline-type units.
Howard Rosenberg
Contributor
why. Old guys in the trade used them for their whole lives. More than once ive bought machines and got their feather boards some likely 50 years use on them.
Contributor
Hi Carroll, I would add an infeed and outfeed table to the saw for stability and safety. You want to concentrate on feeding the wood, not trying to prevent it from tipping.Originally Posted by Carroll Courtney
As Warren as has said you can make wood feather boards from scraps.
Regards, Rod
Early on I would pick up any compatible feather boards that were at a good price. Mostly I have the Rockler versions but have some pre-Rockler Bench Dog and No-names with the same form factor as the Rocklers. I have feather boards located near the mchines that I use them on and have a drawer full of extras and odd-n-ends for when I need something unusual.
It sound like you are going to re-saw the 2-by at the tablesaw. Be sure to have one face and one edge jointed. A tall or stacked set would serve you well. Stacking sets (versus tall) are more versatile since they can also be used as singles.
RT-FB-Use 003.jpgScrap Boxes 20240714 (13).jpgBS Align (11).jpgVeneer resaw.jpg
The basic magnetic ones can be handy but will not tolerate the potential leverage of your described operation . . . and they don't stack. The orange Home Depot versions are identical to the full price ones and often go on sale.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
I started using Jessem clear cut roller guides and they are fantastic, I rarely ever use a feather board anymore, but using a feather board will work just as well as the Jessem. The Jessem actually seems to make the saw safer by applying down pressure and side pressure it gives the TS a real nice feel when ripping. Do you need em no but I highly recommend them.
Contributor
If you're standing the board on edge that's resawing. But I think I know what you mean.
You're ripping to 4 1/2" or to match the width of the wall, correct?
You can make a long fence from any 8' length of sheet good, or a 12' length of angle iron. If you have a riving knife you shouldn't need featherboards. Jessem stock guides work quite well.
As mentioned, it's not just a matter of ripping to width. You need a straight edge to start, and be aware when ripping stress relief can produce a board with a bow. Jointing a 10' board is not that easy on a jointer. I use a track saw for straight line rips, but you can use any straight edge and a circular saw. Once the straight edge is established, I suggest you take slim rips, like 1/2" off each side to minimize the possibility of stress relief. It's just insurance. Boards can look stable and the grain can look straight, but I've had them bind up and come off the saw in a nice curve off the saw......
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