Stain and then poly

[John Kananis]

Certainly not arguing on the wet/dry issue. Was just noting my particular experience. I'm sure the shellac was dry in my case and can't think of another variable since my shop is temp controlled.

I'm certain its not the denaturant. It's insufficient drying that causes the problem.

[Joseph Montroy]

I've been busy trying to find a combination that looks the correct color and will look respectable. I've decided that at this point I hate transtint. Ended up using the minwax stain, letting it dry well, then wiping with 50/50 water/ denatured alcohol.

I must say the recommendation of the Target EM8000CV was first rate. I'm shockingly surprised how good it looks and how durable it is on my test pieces. I still get a bit pock- marked finish here and there, but I believe that's more fine tubing I need to do with the 3m gun. I did find stepping down to the 1.3 spray tip helped. But I'm sold on the finish!

As soon as the water borne stains with as well as the target conversion varnish, I'll convert. But boy am I glad I listened about the varnish!

[Jim Becker]

'Glad you are happy with your results.

Please keep in mind that a water soluble dye is a completely different animal from an oil based pigment stain. They apply differently, work differently and look differently so moving between them can require a bit of change of process. It's good to have both in your arsenal because different species demand it. Example...oak or ash. When you want that bold, big pore structure to shind, the pigment stain is going to be the bee's knees. For maple and other close grained woods, a water or alcohol soluble dye is going to provide a more even coloration. And the dye is what you need when you're creating a toner with shellac or your waterborne clear coat to spray.