Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 34

Thread: It's time to Upgrade! Looking for Miter Saw recommendations

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Los Angeles
    Many of the replies are in the very high priced realm. The OP hasn't said how much he wants to spend or what kind of woodworking he does, or whether he's a pro or this is a hobby. These are important factors.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2022
    Northern Colorado
    Also if you watch Home Depot adds Rigid makes what looks like a great saw (feels good anyway) and you can get them for sub 300.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    In response to "Makita and Bosch being great tools". I generally agree with this statement. I have a LOT of cordless Makita tools and they are excellent. In turn, Bosch has generally been one of the top end brands in general tools. Milwaukee tends to be the "very top end" of this contractor tool area. Only stuff like Festool and Mafell are a step higher.

    That being said, I did do considerable research on these miter saws. The Makita has two major problems. One is that often the Makita saw will come mis-aligned from the factory. This means that the saw itself will tilt during the slide cut and results in a crooked/warped cut. Trying to re-align this from factory is a major pain in the butt. The other problem is the common angle indents are made from an aluminum stock and will wear quickly. That being said, the Makita is likely the second best in dust collection next to Festool.

    The Bosch has a hinged mechanism that moves the saw forward and back. I think there are going to be accuracy problems with this particular design. It's really designed for people who have very limited space (i.e. no room for the slider rods to extend back behind the saw).

    Are you referring to this statement: " I would avoid any Makita or Bosch miter saw" ? Only thing close that I see. I like Makita tools, dislike Bosch ones generally, but have not really used more recent Makita miter saws- I know that a while back their fences seemed ridiculously low...

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Athens WV
    I have a 705 maybe 20 years old that has been used quite a bit but is still tight, square and powerful. In a box connected to a shop vac the dust collection is pretty good. That saw has a dust collection chute that's close to the blade, short and direct, no ells, unlike the sliders I've looked at. Unless yours has some problem I'd spend my money somewhere else.
    Photo of my setup attached.
    I have to say the Woodcraft store where I occasionally shop has a Kapex set up and operational on the floor. Last time I was in there I watched an employee cut a piece that was maybe 2-1/2 or 3 thick by 6 or 8 wide probably for a bowl. He cut it in three passes of maybe 1" deep which the saw took easily but when done you couldn't tell the cut wasn't taken in one pass. Very smooth no cut lines every cut on exactly the same plane as the last. If I ever go with a slider I'll look carefully at the Kapex.
    Not sure why the photo ended up upside down or how to fix that. Any tips?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Tampa Bay, FL
    I have a Kapex, and it is very good. Dust collection is okay, not great, as is the case with all SCMS. Better than most. I built an enclosure for it that improves dust collection to good, still not great.

    Capacity is OK, but if I had to do it over again, and didn't care amount how much it cost, I would buy the OMGA. It's a superb beast of a machine.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Exactly, I’ve been using my Graule for a few months now and I’m happy as can be with that machine. I find it very easily controllable even when cutting wide or thick boards. One if the first tasks I used it for was sawing 4.5” thick x 6.5” wide laminated beams.

    I recently added air clamps, similar to what I have on my Omga chop saw.

    These types of machines are quite accurate, hard to think of a SCMS as anything other than a jobsite tool after dialing this stuff in.

    I built the saw station from 8020.

    Attachment 521738

    Attachment 521739

    This is the Omga. This saw I setup to cut square a few years ago and it has cut absolutely perfectly square every time since then.
    Attachment 521740

    I put a JW Dawley stop setup with the DRO on the Omga. I used a Maya posi setup on the Graule, both are good stop systems.
    Wow, very impressive Brian. Those hold-downs look massive.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Los Angeles, California
    I can't imagine life without a miter saw, or more specifically, a sliding miter saw. I use it every day. Mine is an older 8" Hitachi slider, but is deadly accurate and only has needed re-calibration about every five years. Metabo bought out the Hitachi line, so I would look into those.

    By the way, I also have a RAS, and like others use it weekly for cross cuts and dados. But the sliding miter gets more use. If I had to pick one of the two, I would pick the RAS. I have a pre-war 240v 12" Rockwell RAS.


  8. #23
    Many responses are for higher end tools but used and/or auction machines are often a good deal.

    I bought my Omga RAS at auction at a ridiculously low price. I couldn't afford it any other way. Less than $50 for a couple of tune up items, a lot of cleaning, some other fix-ups (time on my part) and it works just fine.

    Don't rule out used

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Doylestown, PA
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Gibney View Post
    The Hitachi 12" slider seems to be highly thought of. You can keep the arms out front like in a RAS and so place the saw closer to the wall.
    They are now called Metabo and I don't know how they match up with the older saws.
    I have one of those. It took some time to get the fence exactly 90* to the table. I bought the saw from the outfit in the Atlanta area that sold lots of refurbished Hitachi tools. I called and they sent me another fence. It had the same problem. If I read the hitachi manual it recommends cutting crown and such flat on the table, setting both the miter and bevel on the flat work. Maybe that's why they don't worry too much about the fence. They didn't want the old fence back so I spent some time removing a tiny bit of metal here and there so the fence is now 90* to the table. The fence was straight from end to end, it just leaned about 1* or less from perpendicular.
    Last edited by Curt Harms; 06-24-2024 at 5:17 PM.

  10. #25
    I have a 12" Bosch I bought a little over 2 years ago and I much like it. There are no problems and with the hinging mechanism it can sit close to the wall. I have found it to be a great saw.

  11. Quote Originally Posted by Izzy Camire View Post
    I have a 12" Bosch I bought a little over 2 years ago and I much like it. There are no problems and with the hinging mechanism it can sit close to the wall. I have found it to be a great saw.
    I agree completely. My 12" Bosch is extremely accurate and easy to set up. I didn't buy it because of the space-saving aspect, but it is nice. Short of buying an industrial-grade machine, I don't know what else I would rather have.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    North Dana, Masachusetts
    I like an old Delta radial arm saw for rough cutting lumber. It's a terrible saw, it was never made well enough to be accurate. Throwing a 16' board onto the table doesn't make it not square, because it never was. It cuts through8/4 x 14" Sapele, slowly.

    For finish cuts I have a Makita miter saw. I treat it gently, and it stays true. I had to devise dust collection for it. I have a 4" line to a little blower, and a central vac on the built in port. I'm looking for a saw with better dust collection.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Silicon Valley, CA
    Spencer Lewis (Insider Carpentry youtube channel) has a couple of videos about miter saws from the perspective of a pretty decent trim carpenter. (A lot of dewalt saws with occasional kapex)

  14. #29
    I had the idea that I would upgrade the same saw that the OP has with A Makita one that is very similar and gets great reviews. There were many listed as in stock online.

    I gave the Dewalt saw to my son to replace his little POS saw, but come to find out that the Makita saw is discontinued and the many online sites are liars- not only do they not have it in stock, they have no stock at all, everything is drop shipped.

    The fall-back is to just get another Dewalt- now called DWS715, and hope it's as good as the old one.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    NE Ohio
    I had a Taskforce 8 1/4" sliding compound miter saw.
    I also had a Delta 8 1/4" miter saw.

    My foray into Craftsman ended badly. I bought a non-slider Craftsman on a Black Friday sale and set it aside to use on a house rehab we had coming up in a year.
    About a week into the rehab I picked it up by the handle to move it and ended up with a handle and some wires in my hand and the saw sitting on the floor. Sears was zero help. I chalked it up to no more Craftsman stuff for me.

    I picked up a 10" Ryobi non slider, also on a Black Friday sale (It ran a whopping $59!). It ran like a champ! Once I dialed it in, it stayed dead on. I used that saw for another three rehabs.
    It finally died when I used it to cut that horrible foam plastic fake wood trim. That crap got into the guts and made the saw a vey unhappy camper.

    My shop saw is a 10" DeWalt non-slider. I've thought about getting a slider, but, I can't really see why. I have a table saw and a track saw and a 10" compound miter saw. What one can't handle, the other can. If I run into something like dados or lap joints, I can just use the router table.

    I should add - I never had an issue with any of them being accurate. Keeping them accurate is a different story.
    The DeWalt has been dead on since I got it years ago. The others required some attention to stay useable.
    Last edited by Rich Engelhardt; 06-28-2024 at 8:17 PM.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts