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Thread: 1997 SCM Minimax SC 3 sliding table saw questions

  1. #1

    1997 SCM Minimax SC 3 sliding table saw questions

    Hello. I recently acquired an older Minimax SC3 slider. It needs some work to get it setup nicely but it does run and is certainly solidly built. SCM was able to date it to 1997 for me and supply me with a parts schematics but no manual.

    A previous owner seems to have stripped out most of the original electrical and replaced it with a light switch style toggle switch. So I'm trying to figure out a better option for the switch.

    It has a Baldor motor (3HP Saw Duty, 230v, 60Hz, 17A).

    It seems the original machine definitely had a Siemens magnetic coil and switch. In addition it seems there were at least options for an emergency stop button and a lock-out switch. Also something called an "O-star delta starter" which I think eased the motor up to speed upon start but I'm not really sure.

    I'm waiting to hear back from SCM but in the meantime what do I really need to switch this machine on and off safely? My Jet cabinet saw has a motor with nearly identical specs. I know I can get aftermarket magnetic switches for it from Powertec for less than $150. Is that a good solution?

    What's the deal with the "O-star delta starter"?

    Thank you,
    Christian
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. So it's now single phase?
    Star delta is the two stage switching for when it was 3 phase

  3. #3
    I was reading up on the star-delta starter last night and yes it seems to be only for 3-phase motors so it doesnít apply in my case.

    Iím assuming the 1-phase Baldor was original equipment but maybe not.

  4. #4
    They did offer the saw in single phase options.

  5. #5
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    It seems very unlikely that the motor is original. The Minimax machines I have and have had all have metric motors from an Italian manufacturer. The original motor from my T120 lathe was pretty gnarly looking with a capacitor zip tied to the motor to get 1ph from a 3ph motor but it was an Italian OEM.

    Personally I would build out a new control box with a rotary disconnect, push button start/stop wiring, IEC motor starter and a breaker. You can add e-stops where you need them on the machine including in the original position.

    Another option is to replace the motor with a metric 3ph motor and run it with a VFD, you can program the VFD to soft start and you can use push button controls. This is my preference in the last couple years.

    My Ulmia tablesaw was imported by mahogany masterpieces and the OEM metric motor was replaced with a baldor of a similar frame size. I removed that and replaced it with a proper metric motor and added a VFD and push button controls. Soft start is featured and the motor is setup to stop very quickly (2 seconds). Mine had a very strange switch setup that was potentially dangerous, so I replaced it with a newer Siemens rotary disconnect. I added an e-stop on the outrigger.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 06-23-2024 at 9:22 AM.
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    In this photo you can see the original switch setup, goofy as it was. If the push button start with depressed while the disconnect was Ďoffí, the saw would start as soon as the disconnect was turned Ďoní.

    IMG_8928.jpg

    Added the VFD and new controls.

    1B5B49F7-6B71-4408-BAEB-7A87AE98F7A5.jpg

    Added new motor, I went with Lafert which is a high quality Italian manufacturer.

    29BD2694-A34E-4E79-BE4F-D0AAAA50838F.jpg

    Buttoned up, added the e-stop under the outrigger in addition to the e-stop at knee height.

    IMG_2228.jpg
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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    Showing this to contrast, in hindsight I think a VFD would have been a better choice for this machine since it is hard starting.

    The original motor was badly modified to run on 1ph, someone zip tied two capacitors to the motor and wired them in to one of the legs. I was not thrilled with that setup, so I discarded it. The damaged the original wiring pretty badly, so I removed that and built a control box inside of a Hammond die cast (sealed) electrical box.

    I used Siemens equipment, with an IEC starter, push button controls, breaker and disconnect. I went through some trouble but eventually replaced the OEM Fuji motor with one from Mitsubishi.

    IMG_2545.jpg

    I have students and so for that reason, and for my own safety, I very much like having updated control systems which feature e-stops in convenient locations.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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    Brian, nice planer!

  9. #9
    Excellent info. Thanks so much. Iím going to look into all of these things this week. Iíll surely have some questions. I have to stick with the current Baldor motor, at least for now. A new motor isnít in my budget at this time.

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    Anytime!

    Thsnks, John! Working on getting it fired up.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Anytime!

    Thsnks, John! Working on getting it fired up.

    I hope you make a dedicated post to that machine! I hope to own one of those one day. If it renders that nice super surfacer next to it as a redundancy in your shop I’ll be glad to free up some shop space for you haha

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    I see super surfacers pop up for sale once in a blue moon. There was a Royal FX that sold for practically nothing on Machinery Max a couple years ago, it even had the Kanafusa setup like I installed into mine. One of my friends was going to bid on it (and didn’t) so I’m not sure what became of it.

    Thank you! Once I get it running I may make a thread about it. Shouldn’t be too long, I’m awaiting a phase perfect to arrive and I have to wire everything up.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Personally I would build out a new control box with a rotary disconnect, push button start/stop wiring, IEC motor starter and a breaker.
    Thanks for this info Brian. I know very little about motor electrical and I have questions.

    Control box and push button start/stop seem pretty self explanatory.
    Is the rotary disconnect a removable handle rotary switch used for machine lock-out?
    Why an IEC starter?
    In general I know what a breaker is but what's its function in this scenario? My 240v machines all have their own dedicated circuits/breakers in the electrical panel. How does a breaker here work different than the one in the electrical panel?

    I'm currently searching around online for these items? Do you have a preferred source or is this something where it's better to find a local supplier? I'm in NYC and I've started looking around for motor repair places.

    Thanks again.
    Christian

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    Bear in mind I’m not an expert, just working from experience and lucky enough to have recieved good advice over the years.

    The rotary disconnect, doesn’t have a removable handle, it’s just a rotating switch that shuts off main power to the control box.
    An IEC starter would be much closer to the OEM setup than NEMA.

    A breaker in the box is set to the size of the line (typically), where a breaker in the machine is closer to the amperage draw of the motor.

    I use Automation24 fairly often.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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