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Thread: What have i gotten myself into?

  1. #1

    What have i gotten myself into?

    I had saved an online image of a plant stand at an antique store as a promising project, and some salvaged walnut (interesting long story here) was a good fit.

    Got the parts laid out, joined, and prepped, and in the process, had enough to make two pieces.

    Now the reality is setting in that there are 48 angled mortises to cut, all by hand.

    Maybe at least I'll be good at it by the end...

    IMG_5064.jpegIMG_3366.jpeg

  2. #2
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    If my eyes are looking at this right, all the mortises will be at the same angle.

    How about cutting a piece of scrap at that angle as a guide.

    The mortise for the top might be different than the ones on the side. Maybe do those first to dry assemble to get the angle on the horizontal ones.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
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    You could keep all the tendons straight and angle the grooves instead.

  4. #4
    Just tilt the mortiser head 5 degrees and you're good

    While I like my hand tools, this is why I'm not a total neander.
    I can cut mortises by hand but I really don't need/want to cut 48 of them.

  5. #5
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    Totally out of curiosity - where are there 48 mortises in that piece? Could you alter the design so there's less? That's a lot of mortises for a plant stand...

    And yeah, a jig to guide your chisel, or using a mortising machine or router seems appropriate for that many. I just did 10 (normal) 2" deep mortises in a row in maple a couple of nights ago, and while it was totally doable by hand, I was thinking if I had many more to do I'd figure out a machine-based process to make it easier/faster.

  6. #6
    Yes, everything is at 4˚ angle. Only a few of them will fit in the mortiser, so probably not worth the set up.
    Thinking of making a guide block the full width of the sides, with sandpaper on both sides so it will keep the mortises in line and can be used to guide both sides- that is a good suggestion.
    Each shelf has 3 tenons and I'm making two stands, but if the tops had 4 tenons instead of 6 the total would be 44. The top tenons may be cut vertical so the top can be a separate glue up.
    Using a router is an interesting idea. Free-hand half the depth from each side to get the rough mortise might be quick and less risk of blowout than drilling out the waste on the DP.
    You can see the full scale plan in the pic, so the angles and dimensions are pretty clear.
    I'm guessing the original has the shelves in stopped dados, so it could have been a straight groove with an angled tenon. I've done angled M&T- a couple of benches with 16 each, but the number here jumped up.

    Thanks for the input.

  7. #7
    When I've done stuff like this in the past, I just set up the drill press with a forstner bit and angled the table. Then I hogged out most of the material on the drill press, and used the flat bottom I created with the forstner bit as a reference when cleaning up the rest of the mortises with a chisel. It took a while, but it was easy to do. And it took a whole lot less time than doing it all by hand.

  8. #8
    Sidetracked.

    Laying out from one edge but the marking gauge won't reach the far side so made a bigger one- panel gauge I guess you call it.

    Made from a rosewood junk plane body from buddy's parents' estate. He (the dad) taught wood shop so I think these were student projects.

    Blade from a sawzall blade.

    IMG_5066.jpg

  9. #9
    Pretty piece!
    Sounds like you are doing it for fun, so enjoy the process.

    Never had to make that many uniform angled mortises.
    However, it was exciting to see if this would all go together.....

    DSCN0004.jpg

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    I'm with Kipling - You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din!

    I'd route stopped grooves to mate with truncated full-length tenons. A beveled base plate on the router at 4*.

    Use the base plate to cut the grooves straight in. Leave the shelf tenons straight, but cut the shoulders with the same 4* base plate so the shoulders mate with the side walls when inserted into the grooves. Pretend these are through-tenons, but stop short of the outer surface.

    In my brain I can see all this fitting together properly - dunno if I explained it very well
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

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