Durable Finish for Users

[John Kananis]

So I've made some things that we've put to use in the kitchen (Spatulas, bowls, etc) and the one disappointing thing is that they look great when they're done but first hand-wash and the finish is gone, leaving you with a fuzzy hunk of wood. Any pointers on keeping it looking decent for at least a few washes?

Edit: should I maybe try a coat of shellac between the oil and wax?

[Steve Schlumpf]

John, what finish are you using now? I have been using Mahoney's Walnut Oil for years on utility pieces and have had no problems. When washing, I rinse and dry the wood immediately and think that may help. I also reapply the oil every few years as needed. Some spoons get used more than others, so I do re-coat them a little more often. As far as fuzzies, might depend on how small a grit of sandpaper you used when finishing. I usually sand to 320 grit and have not had any issues.

[John McCrea]

I wouldn't use shellac on kitchen utensils. Unless I'm mistaken, shellac will absorb water and turn milky white.

There used to be a guy sold very nicely carved wooden utensils at local craft shows. And unlike other seller's that used just mineral oil, his utensils had a glassy-smooth surface and beautiful semi-gloss shine.

We picked a up a ladle and a few spatulas and, to my surprise, wash after wash, the finish and shine still look like new. For several months.

About 6 months later, we saw him at another show and I asked what finish he used...

His response, 'Tried & True' original. Several coats ... with a lot of buffing in-between."

So I picked up a small can.

After about seven or eight months, some of the utensils started to lose their luster and look a little thirsty for more finish...

So I put about three coats on, and burnished between each as per the instructions.

The worn spots looked better ... but not nearly as smooth or shiny as the non-worn spots.

So, a few months later, when they needed another re-finish, I did about six coats with burnishing between each coat, as per the instructions. This time the worn spots looked almost as good as the original finish.

Took a lot of work, but looked so much better than mineral oil ... in my humble opinion.

If you decide to try it, be sure to get the T&T 'Original'. It's the one that is a blend of BLO and beeswax.

On our cutting boards, I typically just use a walnut wax or Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner. Not quite the same sheen or silky smooth finish, but quicker/easier to apply since one or two coats usually does the job.

[John Kananis]

Hi Steve, I've tried a few but not Mahoney's. I've used the Doctor's wood bowl finish, odie's oil (and wax), salad bowl oil (terrible), t&t danish oil, tung oil (not polymerized), and every kind of wax I could find in the shop. Carnauba seems to offer the most protection but I'm not looking for high gloss in most things and I'm sometimes getting a little bit of a hazy spot or two beneath the wax. I'm sure a film finish would work just fine but I'm looking for something I can polish on and move on to the next piece.

[John Kananis]

John, I used to have a can sitting around somewhere but I think I got rid of it during a purge due to age. I'll grab some and try it out, thank you.

[John Kananis]

I was also thinking to try the polymerized tung oil from Lee Valley... anyone try this?

[John C Cox]

Watch out for finishes that dry into a hard shell. These tend to crack and peel off when the wood swells from getting dunked in the sink.

Unfortunately, they all end up looking like wood after a while. Sanding smooth after the first dunks in the sink helps a lot with the "Fuzzy" part. Even then, the dishwasher is the finish wrecker.

Ultimately, though, wood is wood. If you want a material that doesn't react to water - plastic and metal are your friends.

[John Kananis]

John, thanks a bunch for the info. Yeah, I'm not looking to be unrealistic about this, I just want the item to survive the first 2 or 3 "hand" washes. Not interested in turning metal or plastic lol.

[Richard Coers]

For wood spoons and cutting boards, I use no finish. The wood doesn't look flashy, but the utility is just fine. On bowls that will be used for food serving, I apply very thin coats of Minwax Rapid Dry Poly in very thin coats with a rag, and sand between each coat.

[John Kananis]

Thanks, Richard. I've been considering poly for some bowls but, for this purpose, I was hoping for something I could apply with a little friction and top coat with wax.

[Don Stephan]

My understanding is that as a general rule waxes are soft, and will rub off with washing. Hardest waxes may survive longer.

When it was still on the market I applied several thinned coats of varnish. With daily washing with soft wide of a kitchen sponge, the finish eventually was rubbed back to the wood after a couple years.

[Richard Coers]

Thanks, Richard. I've been considering poly for some bowls but, for this purpose, I was hoping for something I could apply with a little friction and top coat with wax.

This is what my food bowls look like.I learned a long time ago, you can compromise a lot of hard work with a fast, or wrong finish
soft maple bowl.jpg

[John Kananis]

Was this one of the ones you finished with poly? Nice bowl.

This is what my food bowls look like.I learned a long time ago, you can compromise a lot of hard work with a fast, or wrong finish
soft maple bowl.jpg

[Richard Coers]

Yes, 3 coats of poly with sanding between each coat and also the final coat. Buffed with steel wool after sanding the last coat.