[OP]
Contributor
That's actually one of the few used bandsaws I've seen come up that weren't ridiculously priced! I think it was $800. I passed on it because of the small motor and the complaints of the noise in the reviews I was finding. Everyone seemed to own one for a short time, and then sell it, so I let it slip. It felt like a mistake at the time, but it was in kind of in rough shape and was afraid it would need lots of work and maybe parts I couldn't find.Originally Posted by Bill Dufour
Contributor
Jimmy, where are you located?
Maybe you said but I didn't see it. Thanks.
[OP]
Contributor
Oklahoma City-ish.
I'd really like to avoid shipping. Especially for a used machine. Not just to avoid the cost, but also because I have had such terrible luck with things getting lost or damaged when shipped these last few years. Plus, they never deliver on the day they say they will anymore, so if I have to sign for it or be there to receive it, I could wind up missing several days of work, just sitting at home waiting on nothing. And my wife would not be happy with me burning what few vacation days I get for that. And nor would I. The quality and reliability of shipping services has really nosedived since the pandemic.
So my options would be used locally for pick up, Rockler, or Woodcraft. I could also make the drive out to the Grizzly warehouse in Springfield, MO. That's about 4 a hour drive, which is right about the maximum distance I would be willing to travel.
Contributor
I have a Rikon 10-325 14" steel framed saw. I've resawed maybe 7" - 8" with it. It'll do it but slowly. Another reason to have 12" resaw is to cut things like boxes. You might only but cutting 1 1/2" of wood but you need 12"(or more) between the guides to do it. One thing about the Rikon at least, I doubt it's practical to retrofit a much larger motor IMO, it comes with 1 3/4 h.p. motor. People refit cast iron Delta saws with larger motors to improve resawing experience. Not Rikon (and I suspect other smaller steel frame saws). The driven pulley is integral to the lower wheel and it's a pretty small poly groove belt, maybe 5/16" wide or so.
[OP]
Contributor
That's good info. Thanks for posting!
Contributor
That's a hike but you could see your options as far as Grizzly. Plus I imagine it's an adult toy land. Grizzly had a store near Williamsport PA. which was about 3 hours away. It's closed, probably too far away from major population centers. They had an annual scratch & dent sale. I miss it, got a metal cutting bandsaw for $80 among other toys.
[OP]
Contributor
What about a Laguna LT16 SEC (Meber)? I found one in good shape with lots of add-ons. I've heard both good and bad things about the Meber variant. Vibration problems, mainly. But supposedly it can go up to a 1" blade and has a 2.5hp motor.
Another option would be a Grizzly G0513. 2HP and 17". Probably not as nice, but cheaper (barely) and new.
I found that Hitachi CB75F again. Passing on it was probably a good idea. It's in really rough shape, doesn't even have a fence, and I don't know how easy it would be to find parts. And it looks like it needs a LOT of work. Plus, everyone says to replace the motor, and that would jack the price up beyond the others. And, while I don't plan on cutting a lot of curves, it would be nice to have the option to switch out a blade and do that.
Contributor
Exactly. The Hitachi is a one trick pony. It's for folks who already have a saw, one that either is not well suited for resawing, or want to have an additional dedicated resaw machine. From what you said, you need a more versatile saw.
I don't know much about Meber other than they make/made some very good metal cutting saws. But I will say that if you can find a good used saw you can save substantially over new. Do not concern yourself if the asking price is more than it was new, because you can't buy that saw for the price it was new anymore. You either buy a used saw, or you buy a new one. You have to look at the cost of the used saw with respect to what that saw, or a similar one, costs new now. If you can save 50%, that's a good deal if it's in good shape. Once it gets to 70% of new, it better look and perform like new, and maybe have some accessories with it, to justify the price. Tough sell to me but location probably plays a role.
John
Member
That particular Meber has no hub for wheel adjustment at the back, perhaps there might be adjustability there within the chassis. but I doubt it.
https://www.woodworker.de/forum/thre...s-1995.112617/
meber p400.jpeg
Contributor
Another reason for height/resaw capacity, is when using sleds, jigs and so on.
My sled is 3/4" thick and there are times when I could certainly use that little bit extra.
So when I cut something like a burl or other work-piece that requires a sled, my height is down to 11 1/4".
https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...unnion/g0513x2
IMG_1153.jpg
It all depends on how you see yourself using your saw.
Contributor
I have the G0513ANV edition, it was for their 35th anniversary. As a hobbiest I am very pleased with it. I do have a 1 inch blade that I seldom use, I don't believe I can get enough tension on that blade. I have a 3/4 inch blade that I believe tensions as it should. I keep a 1/2 inch blade on it for general use and it does a good job. I have yet to spend the big buck for a high quality blade but the Timberwolf blades work well for what I need. I can cut 1/8 inch cuts and it does a decent job. Not perfect but a couple trips thru the drum sander and all is well. I would highly recommend this saw. I should mention the fence is not the best but adequate
Contributor
Cheap and resaw should not go in the same sentence. Resawing is the most difficult operation on a bandsaw and you need a good machine to do it.
Contributor
The world is full of woodworkers who realized their mistake of buying the wrong tool for the job because they wanted to save a buck when they buy one to replace it.
Member
^^^^^^ This ^^^^^
I've done more resawing than most, and cheap/low powered saws are a terrible choice for any sort of thickness for resawing. 12" of hard maple puts you out of any home owner tool and into big commercial/industrial saws.
If you're only occasionally doing resaw, consider joining a local woodworkers guild and using the big saw at the shop. It's a lot better deal than buying a giant 24" bandsaw, custom resaw bands, a sled setup, and paying for the upgrade electrical service to power it.
Never mind that precision resawing becomes considerably more expensive as thickness increases. Most any decent saw will rip 1/2" or 3/4". 4" takes a lot more careful setup. 8" is challenging, and you better leave plenty of stock for clean up unless you've got an A-1 perfect setup, band, and fence. 12" deep? Your best bet is sending it to a pro who resaws veneer slices and just pay the premium, or you'll end up with a big pile of wavy, tapered scrap and no wood to work with.
[OP]
Contributor
I'm okay with having to flatten the board after resawing. I do that now when I resaw by hand. Plus, any wood I buy has to be planned flat. I'm not part of a production shop and don't have schedules to worry about. In fact, the whole point of woodworking for me is to waste my time. It's a hobby. It keeps me from watching mindless television or yelling at my crazy uncles on social media.
Also, there are no woodworking guilds near me. There's no shop where you can go to rent or borrow equipment, outside of one on a military base that requires a military ID (which I don't have). And it would probably be really difficult to find a pro who would be willing to do something like that, as most woodworking near me are either cabinet shops that work primarily with plywood or general construction. And most don't like wasting time on small jobs.
We don't have furniture makers here, or like I said, a history of woodworking in this area. Oklahoma was Indian territory up until 1907, and by the time it became "settled", we had oil money and railroads, so stuff like that was always imported from the east. Plus our trees are really small and there aren't too many of them.
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