What clear plastic for router base and where to get it?

[Warren Lake]

If something is soft then less chance it will damage laminate. The plexi was not soft and I also had no issue drilling it. A past customer talked me into a job and I had to use their choice of lam. It was so damn delicate that it was hard not to leave track marks. Im used to the Nevamar stuff especially the Matrix stuff that used to have aluminum oxide in it. I was super careful trimming to blow shards away, still that brand and colour and wont mention it as shania said dont impress me much.

[Jimmy Harris]

I think this is one of those situations where everyone recommends whatever they have. Which means that any of them work well enough to get the job done without much to complain about.

[Warren Lake]

the black original stuff different on both Makita and Porter cable got scratches with use as well. I never focused or looked close but easy enough to do. Reason I used Plexi was i had the offcuts so its simple and easy. I dont remember ever having issues with that material. Scratches on the last cheap Lam yes. Told the customer I would not use that again and get a better brand. Also its easy to polish back up to clear if that is wanted. I used to have to do the edges and it was easy.

[Curt Harms]

I've used 3/8" acrylic for sub bases in the past. I wanted the sub base to accommodate Porter Cable style bushings and 1/4" thick material didn't give me much 'meat' to work with. I also counter bored the mounting holes rather than counter sinking them. 3/8" is better here as well, make the hole on the bottom of the base large enough to accomodate the screw head then switch bits and drill the thru hole. I made the thru holes a tiny bit larger than the screw so there is a tiny bit of slop. Center the bit in the bushing then tighten the mounting screws. Will the base move due to the oversized holes? Maybe but I haven't noticed it so far in limited usage.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I've used 3/8" acrylic for sub bases in the past. I wanted the sub base to accommodate Porter Cable style bushings and 1/4" thick material didn't give me much 'meat' to work with. I also counter bored the mounting holes rather than counter sinking them. 3/8" is better here as well, make the hole on the bottom of the base large enough to accommodate the screw head then switch bits and drill the thru hole. I made the thru holes a tiny bit larger than the screw so there is a tiny bit of slop. Center the bit in the bushing then tighten the mounting screws. Will the base move due to the oversized holes? Maybe but I haven't noticed it so far in limited usage.

W/Porter Cable bushings - a little and I mean - a very little - movement would be desired wouldn't it? That way a cone and centering bit could do their job and bring it dead center.

[Edward Weber]

W/Porter Cable bushings - a little and I mean - a very little - movement would be desired wouldn't it? That way a cone and centering bit could do their job and bring it dead center.

This is how all of my sub bases are. There is a small amount of play in the mounting screws. WHen using a centering cone, everything lines up to the guide bushing and then tighten the base to the router.

[Tom Bain]

Transparent Aluminum (for all you Trekies)

[Edward Weber]

Transparent Aluminum (for all you Trekies)

https://ceramics.org/ceramic-tech-to...ek-to-reality/
We're almost there

[Curt Harms]

W/Porter Cable bushings - a little and I mean - a very little - movement would be desired wouldn't it? That way a cone and centering bit could do their job and bring it dead center.

That's the reason for making the holes slightly over sized.