Blade selection for new Sawstop PCS - Ridge Carbide

[Jim Becker]

At the risk of stirring the pot, why the obsession with high-end combo and rip blades? I understand the need for a high quality laminate blade because that is the last cut before banding, but solid wood rip surfaces require hand planing or sanding anyway so why not use a combo or rip blade that leaves a surface just good enough to be easily hand-planed or sanded? I used WW2 for years but started using a CMT combo blade while a Forrest was being sharpened and realized I wasn't really benefiting from the WW2 because I was finishing with a hand plane anyway.

It comes down to "different strokes for different folks", Holmes. I happen to like that my original two WW-II blades were still going strong after nearly 20 years and are still going strong with their new owner a few years after that. The only reason I sold them was they were replaced with 12" versions which were more appropriate for my saw. It's not just about quality of cut, but also long term value for the particular individual. But around cut quality, you'll likely find that most folks are not pulling out hand planes, either because they don't enjoy it or because they don't even own them. (I don't use my CMS in the shop for critical crosscutting as I do that on my sliding table saw)

[Michael Burnside]

As far as CMS vs. tablesaw, I'm with Jim in that I prefer the table saw for accurate crosscuts (well sort of LOL since I don't use a slider - I'm not nearly as cool as Jim ). I use the CMS or jigsaw for rough dimensioning and then tablesaw for everything else, which is why I spend the 30 seconds it takes to install a high-tooth count crosscut or ripping blade and rarely use my combo for anything other than rough rips or "shop" furniture stuff where I don't want to wear my two main blades. IMHO the tablesaw produces a better cut and I've got my saw dialed in to perfection so it's my main go-to.

[James Jayko]

I do not understand the issue with Freud blades not jiving with the Sawstop brake system. I use Freud blades almost exclusively and have not had a problem.

I agree. 3HP PCS here, I have and love the Freud Fusion...slightly lower cost than the Ridge or WWII, but an excellent performer for me. I'd give it a look.

Regarding the full vs thin kerf, go full kerf all day. I used the thin kerf and it just wasn't worth saving 1/32 of an inch when you have 3HP to spin the blade, especially given the hassle with the riving knife which is full kerf width. The jamming up etc seemed to make it feel pretty dangerous with the thin kerf.

[Randy Heinemann]

I have a Ridge Carbide combo blade and the boxjoint set (which I bought for a particular project). They are great blades. I would say, though, that Sawstop's own combination blade is a good blade for the price. My saw had a Sawstop blade on when I bought it (of course) and I just used it. It does a great job. I've been able to crosscut and rip 8/4 with the combination blade, but it's tough. However, it does a great job on 4/4 and plywood with very few saw marks. For me, it was worth it to keep the price down for everyday type work.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

I do not understand the issue with Freud blades not jiving with the Sawstop brake system. I use Freud blades almost exclusively and have not had a problem.

Larry,

You won't see any problem with Freud shouldered blades in everyday use. It's not until the brake is triggered that the shoulders become a problem, slowing the time to stop the blade. If the trigger is your miter gauge, no big deal. If it's your finger, that's another story. Is that the time you want to find out why Sawstop doesn't recommend blades with anti-kickback shouldes? After spending the cost of a Sawstop as insurance to save your fingers, why would you ignore the advice of the people who made the saw?

Cliff

[Michael Burnside]

I would call SawStop if you have questions, not posts by users on forums. Or request links to SawStop FAQ for reference. IMHO anyway.