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Thread: A Bad Carpenter Doesn't Blame Their Tools

  1. #1

    A Bad Carpenter Doesn't Blame Their Tools

    I subscribe to the "A bad carpenter blames their tools" theory. So I tend to take the blame for things not working like they're supposed to, rather than buy new tools. And that's not always right. Case in point:

    I have an old Stanley No. 7 jointer plane. I think it's a type 9, if I remember correctly. It's over 100 years old and either has the original iron or a very old replacement in it. And it's worn down. I've got about 1/4" of blade left on it. But whatever, it still works. Or it did.

    So I've been building a hard maple workbench recently and doing a lot of planing. When I went to flatten the top with my No. 7, it gave me lots of trouble. Tear out, chatter... either it wouldn't cut or it would cut too deeply, no middle ground. Plus the blade felt like it kept wanting to retract or something, where I'd have to keep advancing the blade to keep it cutting. Lots of reversing grain here, so I knew it would be difficult going in. But what I didn't immediately notice was that my other planes were handling it okay. Partly because with my jack plane, I was always traversing the grain somewhat, and with my smoothing plane, it was setup to shave such a fine shaving, that I just assumed it was the nature of work that I was doing with those planes was the reason I wasn't having problems with them. In the past, I could set the jointer up to take a fine shaving and it worked great. But for whatever reason, that wasn't happening here. So I worked around it and got the top mostly flat and smooth. A couple of tiny spots of tear out, but nothing too bad, and I just called those "grip spots" and moved on. It's workbench, not a museum piece.

    Onto the vise chop. It should be easy, as no or very little reversing grain here. It's not. Again, my jack and smoother are going fine, but the jointer just isn't working. So I pull out some pine, and the jointer works fine. Okay. Pull out some red oak, and again the jointer pulls those gossamer shavings. Weird. Go back to the hard maple, and the jointer chatters, tears out, or won't cut anything. Curious. So I start looking at what's left of my iron and start thinking that maybe with so little metal left on the edge, it doesn't have enough support to hold the blade flat. So I put a big downward bend into the cap iron to really pin the blade down, and it works better. Much better, in fact. But still not like I think it should. So this tells me I need a new blade, and my old one has deserved its retirement after 100 years or so of hard work. Which I knew that time was coming when I bought it. I had simply assumed that I could use the iron until the blade's edge met the channel in the middle. I was wrong. Who knew? It's not something I've encountered before or heard people talk about.

    So I learned that a good carpenter knows when to blame their tools. Sometimes it IS the tool's fault. And it takes some skill and experience to know that. Which makes me the bad carpenter for not knowing that. Which makes me a little better of a carpenter now, having learned that. Balance, my friends. It's probably not the tool. It's most likely you. But it COULD be the tool. Don't be so humble as to rule it out.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Yep, I replaced the iron and cap iron with Hocks on my type6 #7 for this exact reason.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by mike stenson View Post
    Yep, I replaced the iron and cap iron with Hocks on my type6 #7 for this exact reason.
    That's what I'm doing. A new Hock O1 iron and chip breaker. I've been wanting to try one of these irons for a while but decided to hold off and wait for a real reason to upgrade, since the old Stanley's always worked just fine. Plus, I'm not super impressed with the A2 irons in my LN planes. Not that there's anything wrong with them. I just don't see them as being better in actual use. The advantages of A2, to me, lean more towards theoretical than practical. Or at least not worth paying a significant amount extra for.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Harris View Post
    That's what I'm doing. A new Hock O1 iron and chip breaker. I've been wanting to try one of these irons for a while but decided to hold off and wait for a real reason to upgrade, since the old Stanley's always worked just fine. Plus, I'm not super impressed with the A2 irons in my LN planes. Not that there's anything wrong with them. I just don't see them as being better in actual use. The advantages of A2, to me, lean more towards theoretical than practical. Or at least not worth paying a significant amount extra for.
    As I recall I had to open my mouth just a tad. But I would do it again in a heartbeat. I agree on the A2. I'm OK with the A2 blades I have, but if I'm buying a replacement it'll be either O1 or PMC.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by mike stenson View Post
    As I recall I had to open my mouth just a tad. But I would do it again in a heartbeat. I agree on the A2. I'm OK with the A2 blades I have, but if I'm buying a replacement it'll be either O1 or PMC.
    I'm okay with opening the mouth. I'm not a collector. As long as I don't have to replace the yoke or something, I'll be happy.

    Still, if I can avoid it, I will. I don't even have a vise at the moment (broke one and threw the other out with my old workbench). Besides, I have other planes for hogging off material, so I don't need a huge mouth on this one. I guess we'll find out tonight.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    No issues with these 2...
    Two Jointers, side by side .JPG
    No. 7c and No. 8c
    Two Jointers, No. 7c, No. 8c .JPG
    Both have the original irons and chipbreakers...YMMV, of course..
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
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    Camarillo, CA
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    423
    I have a very small window of acceptable frog adjustment with the Hock iron in my smoother, but didn’t need to open the mouth.

    I’ll agree with sometimes blaming tools. I was struggling with my carcass saw. A close look at it showed the plate had a slight bend that was making it pull to one side. A little gentle adjustment got it working perfectly again.

  8. #8
    The saying, "It's a poor workman who blames his tools," still stands. Good tools or bad, it is still the workman who choses to use them or not. A good workman simply does what is necessary to course correct, rather than simply doing bad work.

    The poor workman doesn't either stop or course correct. He simply blames the bad work on the bad tools, and keeps doing bad work.

  9. #9
    So I installed the new Hock bland and chip breaker last night. Oh man! What a difference! It immediately fixed my problems! So, I'm certain that was the issue now.

    A couple of things about the Hock O1 set... First, the blade wasn't flat. It's slightly hollow on the top, which is fine, I guess. Better than the other way around. I wants to dig in the corners now, but I can fix that by either lapping the back flat (yuck) or rounding over the corners, which I do with all of my planes anyway. The screw on the cap iron was installed on the wrong side. I assume this was for presentation purposes in the packaging, so the screw, top, and logo all are displayed. Not a big deal, but it did cause me to spend a half minute wondering what I was doing wrong before realizing the obvious. And the O1 steel doesn't seem to want to achieve a mirror finish. Again, not a big deal, just something I'm not used to. The grains are pretty prominent and the steel feels coarse. Now, I didn't sharpen it, as it came really sharp out of the package, which was nice. I just ran it across the strop a bit and put it to work. So maybe after I sharpen it myself the mirror like finish will show up? Doesn't matter. And I did have to file the mouth open a hair. But maybe 2 minutes of work with a file fixed that.

    Either way, this blade is sharp and solid! Thin shavings, thick shavings, it didn't matter. It cut beautifully, with no tear out, and with noticeably less resistance than my old irons. I was really surprised at the difference! I did not think it would be that much. But I think this O1 steel can get significantly sharper than the steel in the old Stanley irons or the A2 steel in my LN planes. If it wasn't for the cost, I'd switch out all of my other plane irons and chip breakers. But since the rest aren't giving me trouble right now, I'll happily save that $1,000 and stick with what I have for now.

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