Experience Splitting Boards from Longer Logs

[Denis Rezendes]

Not sure if this is the right place to post, but I'm looking to see if anyone has any experience splitting longer tree sections. I know someone who is getting an old walnut tree cut down. The trunk is about 2 ft in diameter so at 183 pounds a linear foot there's no way I can do anything with the log unless I can split it up on his property into eighths at least. I don't want to make too big of a production out of it which is why I'm hoping to split it vs bringing in a sawmill. I'm looking to do something akin to this picture from the Peter Follansbee blog:

maul-wedges-2.jpg

So my question is, for someone who has no experience doing something like this, is it doable? I was thinking a 6 or 8 ft section to maximize optionality down the road but if that's too much to bite off I could ask for a couple 3 ft sections for chair parts, etc.

It's not the best picture but here's what I got from the guy. he says the tree is ~70 ft tall so the trunk section is probably +10ft. I'm not sure if that big branch would add extra tension to the trunk section. He said that I can come the day it gets cut down and give them a thumbs up or down on whether I want it so at least I'll be able to see the cross section before fully committing.

IMG_4176.jpg

[John TenEyck]

Having never done it this is just speculation. I think it will work well IF the log is straight and w/o obvious signs of limbs near the outside of the log along the lines you need to split it. When I've been faced with this issue, like with a beautiful walnut tree inside a chain link fence that we couldn't get the logs through, I ripped them into quarters with a chainsaw. They still weighed 300 lbs or so, but we managed to get them out on a small dolly.

If you have complete access to the log, I'd find a way to remove it whole if at all possible. The losses I had with a 22" diameter log after cutting it into quarters were very high. Splitting it into eigths is going to give you chair parts, but probably no lumber.

John

[Kevin Jenness]

It's certainly doable. How straight and clean the splitting will proceed absolutely depends on the log's character. If it is straight grained and knot free your chances are better than if it is curved, has limbs, etc. Straight grained walnut should split relatively easily but that is a big log. You will need a heavy sledge or maul and numerous steel wedges and split-resistant hardwood gluts.

You might want to start by kerfing with a sharp chainsaw, and you will get more accurate results by completely sawing out the sections but you will need a good chainsaw, a sharp chain and patience. Turners habitually dice up log sections this way. Do you know anyone with a chainsaw mill? Shorter sections will be easier to process but more subject to end checking. Whatever you do, seal the log ends with anchorseal or pva glue right away.

Years ago I had a 5' diameter sugar maple with a hollow center cut down. The horse logger managed to pull two 6' long butt logs downhill about a hundred yards before stalling out. I managed to split them with a combination of kerfing, wedging and cussing so that the horses could get them out to the landing. It was worth it because I got some excellent figured and spalted material, but not something I would want to make a habit of. Make sure the log is worthy of the effort before committing. Low grade walnut still makes decent firewood.

[Denis Rezendes]

Appreciate the comments so far. I added a picture of the tree. He said I can go over on the day they cut it down and decide whether I want it or not which takes some of the pressure off. They could also put it in my truck or on a trailer for me.

[Kevin Jenness]

Appreciate the comments so far. I added a picture of the tree. He said I can go over on the day they cut it down and decide whether I want it or not which takes some of the pressure off. They could also put it in my truck or on a trailer for me.

Take the offer to load it and truck it to a bandmill. Be aware yard trees are prone to hardware embedment and you may have to buy the sawyer some new blades.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

If you have an excellent log you can get one perfectly quartered "board" out of the center of each eighth. I use a holding fixture and the WoodMizer or a sliding table on the bandsaw to saw up split billets. Most of this batch of black locust billets was cut into boards on the bandsaw. It is only 32 inches long. The stump section is around 48 inches, it was done on the Woodmizer. I thoroughly de-bark billets immediately after splitting and leave the bark in the woods.

IMG_0275 2.jpg

[Denis Rezendes]

As a follow up, if they are able to put it in the back of my truck and I can go the sawyer router. Can anyone recommend someone in the Boston area?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Concord NH is the closest mill I have experience with. Goose Bay Lumber. I know there are several closer to Boston. It being a yard tree may be an issue.

https://goosebaylumber.net/

https://www.google.com/search?client...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8