SCMI Nova F410 jointer

[Tom Yaegle]

I bought a used F410 but it has no pork chop. No guard at all. Can some post a picture of theirs? The only guards I see are the European type.

[Tom Yaegle]

Sorry I should have Googled searched images first.

Owners with a parts diagram? Looking for guard # and bolt/springs to hold in place. Thanks

[Patrick Kane]

Hey Tom, I made a homemade euro bridge guard out of plywood and woodpeckers knobs. Quick build and it works well. On a 20" machine the bridge guard is not an ideal system, because it gets in the way. The suva and a few others solve this problem by adding a joint along the length of the bridge guard.

Search the forums for the segmented porkchop guard. I know Joe Calhoon linked a few euro sources for an excellent guard. Martin and a few other euro makers used this segmented porkchop. It folds down over the edge of the machine as it swings away from the cutterhead. I know Brian bought one of these, so you can ask him for details.

I found one of the threads. Segmented jointer guard (sawmillcreek.org)

[Jim Becker]

I have a EURO (bridge) guard on my SCM Minimax J/P. I'd NEVER go back to a pork chop, especially on a wide machine.

[Warren Lake]

dont have guards but will work something out at some point. It wont be pork chop and it wont be euro if so some time of folding thing that is not in the way or.

00x0x_h8FNakTUdnL_1200x900A.jpg 5.jpg9.JPG16828_1_2997899.jpg1796231.jpg2463414.jpg2595331.jpg2605543.jpg

[Warren Lake]

IMG_20210522_144410_961.jpgIMG_20210522_144436_141.jpg

[Tom Yaegle]

Thanks guys, I had not thought of it being in the way. Probably why it is not there. Will the segmented ones spring return? Or will I have to move and return it?

[Robert LaPlaca]

Tom that is a nice jointer you bought. The segmented euro guard is a SUVAmatic, IIRC Martin sells it in the US. I just use a standard euro guard on my j/p, as the SUVA will bring on sticker shock

Here is a YouTube video of a vintage Oliver 166 with the SUVA guard being used https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=ft6MFmjmzhc It’s a really slick euro guard.

[Tom Yaegle]

Well I got it cleaned up......mostly.100_2427.jpg Both halves are done. I have yet to power it up. My plan for it was to put a spiral head in it. It has the Tersa knives, is the a good set up? I am curious to see if it pulls the grain, if it does it is out of there.

[Brian Holcombe]

I like Tersa a lot, especially with carbide. Definitely wouldn’t spend to swap to a helical.

On the guard, I bought a segmented guard from Panhans. It has a gas spring for a return system, it works very well and is not in the way like the euro and pork chop.

I bought it from GL Trade in Germany, the sellers name is Norbert Gruber and he was very helpful. Cost about $600.

[Patrick Kane]

I agree with Brian on the cutterhead. That is a whole lotta time+money for very few appreciable differences in cut. The chip size off a helical head is nice and the carbide edges do last a long time, but $2500+ will buy you a lifetime of tersa knives. My jointer is tersa and i use the run of the mill hss knives. They produce an incredible surface when they are brand new. If surface quality is the reason you want to swap to a helical head, then i would simply throw out the knives the moment the edge begins to degrade. I get a year and a half or more out of each set of knives(2 sides), and if you halved that you still arent spending much money. I would spend the money on a nice guard, buy new knives for the current tersa head, and see what you think after a month or two. I think you will come to the same conclusion as the rest of the people with a tersa head machine.

My planer is a byrd head, for comparison.

[Tom Yaegle]

Thanks for all the feedback on the guard and the Tersa. I am impressed with the machine and hope to find a manual for it. Even the wiring they did well. I have it out to see about a phase convertor I do not want to run it on my rotary unit. I just want to push a button to start and stop. 100_2473.jpg I am surprised the finish on the top has machine marks maybe so board does not stick down?

[Jim Becker]

Tom, the grind on the tables is indeed to keep wide things that are flat from sticking. Without it, it can get "darn hard" to push the material through for that last pass or three.

[Warren Lake]

some old SCM was ground lengthwise so the lines run in the same direction as the material.

[Tom Yaegle]

Well they did not grind this one length wise.100_2474.jpgThe grind marks or what ever they are arc out each way from the cutter head.