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Thread: Recommended Clear Spray Finish for White Oak Cabinets

  1. #16
    I've used EM9300 and EM8000cv. Both are fairly easy to apply. I find the 8000 a little bit easier. The polycarbonate 9300 is whiter going on. IMHO, the yellow of the 8000 - even with the cross linker (which I recommend) doesn't skew the shade enough to make it appear amber or yellow like an oil-based finish would. It's a pretty natural look.

    The way to really achieve a "no finish' look, IMHO is to use a matte sheen for whichever product you choose.

    I would not mess with adding a pigment or another additive to it. I would try without, and see how you like it. I am willing to bet you won't feel the need to adjust the tone.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I've used EM9300 and EM8000cv. Both are fairly easy to apply. I find the 8000 a little bit easier. The polycarbonate 9300 is whiter going on. IMHO, the yellow of the 8000 - even with the cross linker (which I recommend) doesn't skew the shade enough to make it appear amber or yellow like an oil-based finish would. It's a pretty natural look.

    The way to really achieve a "no finish' look, IMHO is to use a matte sheen for whichever product you choose.

    I would not mess with adding a pigment or another additive to it. I would try without, and see how you like it. I am willing to bet you won't feel the need to adjust the tone.
    Hey yea I think they recommended the 9300, because I asked them which product would tint the wood the least. I asked about the cross linker, but they told me pretty directly that it would be highly unnecessary for kitchen cabinets. I'll definitely be going with a flat/matte finish no matter which route I go.

  3. #18
    I've been using Clear Acrylic Topcoat from Centurion Wood Coatings for years on light woods as well as red and white oak. It won't amber. It sprays like conventional lacquer, dries like conventional lacquer, and is available in various sheens. It builds must faster than conventional lacquer. It is extremely durable. I've used it on quite a few kitchens, including my own, and it has held up beautifully. It will not burn in like most lacquers, so scuff sanding between coats is necessary as with most water based finishes. It can be sprayed right out of the can and runs between $50 and $60 a gallon.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Sack View Post
    I've been using Clear Acrylic Topcoat from Centurion Wood Coatings for years on light woods as well as red and white oak. It won't amber. It sprays like conventional lacquer, dries like conventional lacquer, and is available in various sheens. It builds must faster than conventional lacquer. It is extremely durable. I've used it on quite a few kitchens, including my own, and it has held up beautifully. It will not burn in like most lacquers, so scuff sanding between coats is necessary as with most water based finishes. It can be sprayed right out of the can and runs between $50 and $60 a gallon.
    Awesome, I'll look into it. Are you able to buy it locally?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    WNY
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    My experience with EM-9300 on WO and ash was a disaster.





    Here it was on a clean piece of glass:



    And this:



    I talked with TC several times, sent them photos, etc. With no admission of a problem at their end, they refunded my money and offered me a free gallon. I asked for a different product.

    I wish you luck. And in case you didn't know, EM-9300 is decidedly amber.

    John

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    My experience with EM-9300 on WO and ash was a disaster.





    Here it was on a clean piece of glass:



    And this:



    I talked with TC several times, sent them photos, etc. With no admission of a problem at their end, they refunded my money and offered me a free gallon. I asked for a different product.

    I wish you luck. And in case you didn't know, EM-9300 is decidedly amber.

    John
    Damn, thanks for the heads up on this. Glad I haven't pulled the trigger yet.

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Baldwin View Post
    Awesome, I'll look into it. Are you able to buy it locally?
    I am not sure where you are located, but I get it from a local supplier in Reseda. CA. I believe they have national distribution. They usually have a booth at AWFS. Just Google "Centurion Wood Coatings", click on distributors and plug in your zip code.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,749
    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Baldwin View Post
    Damn, thanks for the heads up on this. Glad I haven't pulled the trigger yet.
    I probably got a bad batch, but .... Aside from that, EM-9300 won't give you a natural look, so if that's what you are after, pick another product. When I've gone for a natural, no-finish look, a dead clear product in a flat or matte sheen is what I've used.

    John

  9. #24
    So I ended up going with Centurion 400 Topcoat. They sent me some pics and it looks like it barely darkens the wood and offers great protection. It also only ran me about $200 for 3 gallons. I'll report back once I try it out. Thanks again for all the advice.

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