Built In Bookshelf Project

[Robert M Richardson]

I'm a DYI guy with a fair number of projects under my belt but I've been "circling" one involving the construction of a set of built in oak bookshelves. I envision two side by side shelf casings 36" x 96" (9" deep) on a common base. These casings would be much larger than anything I've built before so I'm trying to formulate a complete plan prior to the first cut (totally out of character). The assembly would be a glue up with the top and bottom 34-1/2 wide inside the sides. I'm thinking that the back of the casing would be plywood, the sides solid and that since my clamp inventory is somewhat limited I would assemble the casings in stages. First, butting the top and bottom (centered) to the back using corner clamps to square up and F style close the joint and then after the joints set up gluing the sides to the back, top and bottom one at a time, Corner clamps to hold square, F clamps between side and back and parallel clamps to close the joint between the top and bottom to each side. I might add that it would be difficult to construct these casings in my shop and then move them inside and up to the second floor so I'm planning on assembling them in the room in which they will be installed. I'd appreciate any thoughts or suggestions anyone might have on this. Should these joints be reinforced with nails?

[Zachary Hoyt]

If they're going to be sunk in the wall then the easiest way to build bookshelves is to screw through the sides into the shelves. That would reduce the clamp problem. I have done this in rooms where I wanted to store books but lacked space. If the shelves are going to be freestanding you could still use screws and plug the holes.

[Ron Selzer]

I would break it down to three pieces. Base, bottom with doors, top shelves. Easier to build, easier to handle, easier to move, easier to set. If you do it in one piece it will not stand up without hitting the ceiling hard.
Ron

[Robert M Richardson]

I looked at breaking it down that is a possibility. House is well over 100, 9 ft ceilings on the second story 10 on the first.

[andrew whicker]

Is this going to have a face frame?

I think if I were building on site, I would build a sturdy flat table that could be broken down and assemble the library on that table. That way you can screw in from the tops or sides, etc so that all the fasteners are hidden. Tilt the entire box into the cavity / wall. Use a domino or a biscuit joiner to locate the butt joints / make them stronger. Screw to the studs thru the back / nailers. Sink the screws enough (and pre drill appropriately) to add wood plugs to hide screws. Maybe use epoxy or something long setting to give you time. I would use screws, but I'd be using a lot of 18g nails as well to help me out.

The way I generally fix squareness is to have a pipe clamp on hand that is long enough to reach across the diagonal of the cabinet. Once it is screwed / nailed and glued, etc I find the longest diagonal and squish that until the two diagonals are equal (or within 1/16"). On this big of a cab, 1/8" would be fine by me. You could also pre build some 90 degree triangles of w/ big drilled holes that you can fit a clamp head into. Use those in the corners and clamp them to cab. Let the glue set up and then install. I'm sure you could also tip into place and fix out of squareness by pushing the cab here or there and screwing the back in when satisfied.

It is big, but it would be cool if you made it one piece vs two to get rid of the thick middle vertical and replace it with a vertical piece that is 3/4" total vs 3/4" + 3/4". Or if you made the inside walls that abut each other 1/2" each so that the total of the middle vertical wall was 1" vs 1.5". Kind of depends what you are envisioning. A stately huge face frame feel or something more Euro and slim.

Cover the space between the top of the bookcase and the ceiling w/ some sort of crown to give it a real built in feel. Make sure to make the base high enough for you to match the existing baseboard and then some. A built in (in my mind) literally means it looks like it is and always has been a part of the house. Whatever you like though!

I would personally have a 1/2" thick BB or similar plywood back with 1/2" thick nailers. 1/4" back would be too flimsy in my opinion for a box this big.

[Robert M Richardson]

Andrew thanks for all the suggestions. I'm planning for a face frame. Good point about the base height I need to revisit that. One piece is an option but there will be a seam in the back to deal with. 1/2" thick back for sure. I was thinking of some dominos to reinforce the joints whicht has worked well for me on earlier projects. Yes I was planning on a portable work table.

[Paul F Franklin]

You've gotten some good advice on building it; I just have a few thoughts about design. 9" is pretty shallow for bookshelves; all the ones I've built are generally 12 or 13 deep, especially if they will hold any binders or magazine files or things like photo albums. If you go the two piece route, you could make the lower 1/2 or so deeper and the top shallower. I think that gives them an attractive solid and stable look.

Have you thought about making the shelves adjustable? You'll want one fixed shelf toward the middle, to keep the sides from bowing in or out (the back helps with that too), but the rest could be adjustable. It doesn't add much work and it simplifies glue up since only the top, bottom and middle need to be clamped.

If they are built-ins and the sides won't be visible, I'd just use a full overlay back screwed to the top, bottom, middle shelf and sides. IMO, 1/4 ply would be plenty strong done that way.

[Cameron Wood]

IMO the case should be assembled and the back installed after.

[Robert M Richardson]

Yes I've gotten valuable advice which I appreciate. I was planning on adjustable shelves. A fixed one is a good idea. The sides will be visible. I have to admit I have an extensive library of hard backs which will go a long way to filling the shelves but perhaps a few deeper ones would work out in the long run. After all narrow books will fit on wide shelves but not the reverse.

[Zachary Hoyt]

My bedroom in the house I bought is 8x9 feet, so there is not a lot of space, but I built in shelves on both interior walls. They are only partially sunk into the walls, as the walls are 2x4 construction, but it does save some space over having them fully in the room. For standard hardback books I find it works well if I place a shelf every 11", leaving about 10 to 10-1/4" of space depending on the thickness of the shelf boards. I have one taller shelf at the top of one section for oversize books. My current shelves are only 5-1/4" deep because I had a bunch of aspen lumber that wide, and they have no backs, but use the back of the drywall in the hallway, again to save room. The sides of the shelf units are screwed to the studs, so there is no need for a back for structural purposes. If your shelves are deeper than your books it is harder to see the titles, as they are in shadow a bit more, and the exposed part of the shelf gets dusty. Where I used to live I made shelves 7" deep, and that was wide enough to fully support the bottom of most normal hardcovers, though there are always a few wide ones.

[Tom Bender]

Does the room have baseboard molding? Will you leave it in place? Is the floor perfectly flat? You might want to build and install a base 4" to 6" high and as wide as the pair of shelves. You might want to wrap it in matching baseboard and paint it to match the walls. Make it an inch or two shallower than the shelves but full width. Then build the boxes to sit on top.

[Robert M Richardson]

The shelves will fill the space between two doors. My plan is to build a base, level it and install the shelves on it. I think the baseboard will have to go so the shelves can contact and be attached to the wall securely.

[Tom Bender]

If you make the base shallower than the shelves both front and back you can leave the baseboard. That would be handy if you ever decide to move the bookshelves. Making the base as wide as the shelves will support the ends of the case.