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Thread: Dyed ring box

  1. #1
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    Dyed ring box

    I haven’t turned in several years (or posted here) but started turning some small boxes. Here is one that I finished up today. I dyed the rough blank before turning it using a vacuum chamber and also finished using vacuum to infuse poly into the wood. Then buffed using the Beal system.
    Sparky Paessler

  2. #2
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    Beautiful! I love the form and the kaleidoscope of colors! If my wife sees this, maybe I can get a vacuum system and chamber! LOL! Well done, Sir!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #3
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    That's pretty cool. I'd be interested in learning more about the vacuum process.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky Paessler View Post
    I haven’t turned in several years (or posted here) but started turning some small boxes. Here is one that I finished up today. I dyed the rough blank before turning it using a vacuum chamber and also finished using vacuum to infuse poly into the wood. Then buffed using the Beal system.

  4. #4
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    Very nice! I also would be interested in the vacuum process for the coloring. Looks like you started with spalted wood?

  5. #5
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    As far as dyeing with vacuum I turn my blanks round an just a little bigger than what I want my finished product to be. I then put dye in a container lay the blank long ways in the dye. I use enough dye to reach a third to almost half way up on the blank. I then put the container into the vacuum chamber and pull a vacuum on it. I have a valve on my line to the chamber and when I get to as high as my pump will go I close that valve and turn off the pump. As it pumps down there will be a lot of bubbles as the air is pulled out of the wood. I usually leave it in vacuum for 15 to 30 minutes and then slowly release the vacuum. I go through this process about three times to get good penetration. I then let the blank dry overnight and the next day do the next color. The third day I do the third and final color. For each color I of course rotate the blank about a third of a turn. I do get some overlap of the colors. Once it drys overnight from the final color I turn it like normal. I have been using spalted Curley Ambrosia soft maple as it has soft and hard spots and takes the dye well. I have found that if you don’t let the dye dry between colors you will get dye being pulled out by the vacuum and tinting your next dye. You would probably ask me what type dye do i use and I hesitate to say as I have been using alcohol based dye and this can be a fire hazard from the vapors off the dye. I plan to experiment with trans tint dye in water and see how that works. That would be safer that alcohol. If you do use alcohol based dye be aware that if your vacuum is the kind with oil in it I understand that the fumes will interact with the oil and can mess up your pump. Hope that helps. I have done a lot of trail and error to get these results.
    Sparky Paessler

  6. #6
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    Thank you for that description/tutorial Sparky. Much appreciated.

  7. #7
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    Yes, thank you. What type of container and vacuum are you using? I'm hesitant to hook up to my veneer press pump but I'm really intrigued.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kananis View Post
    Yes, thank you. What type of container and vacuum are you using? I'm hesitant to hook up to my veneer press pump but I'm really intrigued.
    I have a Gast oil less vacuum pump that will pump down to about 25” (I’m at 1680’ above sea level). The vacuum chamber I have is an old industrial unit that is made up of 3/4” stainless steel. 11 1/2” in diameter and 22” deep.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Sparky Paessler

  9. #9
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    Quote helpful, thank you for the additional information.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky Paessler View Post
    I have a Gast oil less vacuum pump that will pump down to about 25” (I’m at 1680’ above sea level). The vacuum chamber I have is an old industrial unit that is made up of 3/4” stainless steel. 11 1/2” in diameter and 22” deep.

  10. #10
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    Here are what the blanks look like before and after dyeing.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Keith Outten; 02-20-2024 at 12:39 PM.
    Sparky Paessler

  11. #11
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    Beautiful! Colors and execution of the finished product!
    Vacuum chambers and pressure pots are interesting ways to occasionally do something a little different.
    Jim

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky Paessler View Post
    I have a Gast oil less vacuum pump that will pump down to about 25” (I’m at 1680’ above sea level). The vacuum chamber I have is an old industrial unit that is made up of 3/4” stainless steel. 11 1/2” in diameter and 22” deep.
    Curious about the lid. Glass or Plexi? Thickness?

  13. #13
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    It is 3/4” plexiglass or lexan, I can’t remember. There are two O rings in grooves in the flange at the top of the chamber that the plexiglass sits on. Once it starts pumping down you’ll can’t budge it. I did a lot of calculations and from what I remember there are about 700 pounds of pressure on the lid at a full vacuum. It does bow a little as it pumps down. Takes my pump about 3 minutes to pump the chamber down to 25.
    Sparky Paessler

  14. #14
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    Sparky, if you don't mind, let us know how things turn out with the trans tint. This is a really cool effect without having to compromise the wood with epoxy and such.

  15. #15
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    I am experimenting with transtint mixed with water on a blank now. I’m finding that the wood makes a huge difference on how the dye is adsorbed. The spalted wood seems to do the best. I will turn the blank today or tomorrow and post the results. I already did two maple blanks that were not spalted. One in water and one in alcohol and got almost no penetration. We will see you this new one does.
    Sparky Paessler

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