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Thread: Shelf Pin Jig Feature Non Symmetric Sides

  1. #1
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    Greenfield, Indiana
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    Shelf Pin Jig Feature Non Symmetric Sides

    I've found the shelf pin rundown article at https://sawmillcreek.org/content.php...gs-and-Methods. What I am not sure of is the pins spacing from the side of the upright. It seems most of these assume both upright sides are the same width and space from the edge of the upright. The WWA Shelf Pin Jig looks like it might do what I want, but I'd rather buy on than make one.

    I have a project coming up that has a 20" upright on each side and a 12 upright in the middle. Hope that makes sense. I want the spacing to be based on the middle upright and mirror over to the right and left side uprights. The jig could space off the back of the uprights to work. Do any of the jigs function like that?

    TIA,
    Bruce Walton

  2. #2
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    Apr 2005
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    The Veritas jig is completely adjustable in this regard.

    https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...g?item=05J0303
    Last edited by John Lanciani; 02-11-2024 at 7:51 PM.

  3. #3
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    Hi Bruce, I looked at the jig recommendation from John, it looks good however I noticed that its based on 1 intervals instead of 32 mm.

    I layout one gable using masking tape then drill 4 holes per setup using stops on the drill press, works perfectly, I use a 5mm carbide bit.

    IMG_2434.jpgIMG_2435.jpg


    Regards, Rod.

  4. #4
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    I just make my own jigs for this instances. I just use mdf, with holes drilled, on both sides,for router collars. Those are sized to the smaller panels. Then reference that off of the back of both sides.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  5. #5
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    Here are a couple of my shelf pin jigs. I only made one house full of cabinets a year for 33 years for the spec houses I built, so not exacty high production. These are just strips of 3/4 Birch plywood. Holes are drilled whatever size a slip fit for a TIG welding tungsten is a slide fit in. Holes are marked on a line with dividers and drilled with a drill press. Hole locations are marked on the cabinet side with the sharp point of the tungsten and drilled on the drill press with a brad point bit by eye. I never had a single rocking shelf as crude as it seems. For some decade or so I used a sharpened finish nail before I owned a TIG welder, and it always worked. The tungstens come with a perfectly centered sharp point and I had some anyway.

    If I was in the cabinet business I would have used something different, but these served my purpose for decades. Before these we always used the metal tracks. I don't remember when I saw the first shelf pins, but thought it was worth a try and never did anything else.

    I wouldn't buy something for one set of cabinets or to solve a particular problem. These are dirty around the holes because they have been used for many times.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Hi Bruce, I looked at the jig recommendation from John, it looks good however I noticed that it’s based on 1” intervals instead of 32 mm.

    I layout one gable using masking tape then drill 4 holes per setup using stops on the drill press, works perfectly, I use a 5mm carbide bit.

    IMG_2434.jpgIMG_2435.jpg


    Regards, Rod.
    Good catch on the spacing. I notice Lee Valley has Veritas 32 Cabinetmaking system too. Of course it is a lot more money to get two of the shelf pin guides.

    Bruce

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Lancaster, Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Hi Bruce, I looked at the jig recommendation from John, it looks good however I noticed that it’s based on 1” intervals instead of 32 mm.

    I layout one gable using masking tape then drill 4 holes per setup using stops on the drill press, works perfectly, I use a 5mm carbide bit.

    IMG_2434.jpgIMG_2435.jpg


    Regards, Rod.

    Rod
    Is the drill press table a torsion box, is that a wood fence behind the Kreg?
    Wanting an aux table on one drill press, just nothing has really caught my eye over the last 20yrs.
    Thinking 2/3 the size probable would be it. Anymore pictures would be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Ron

  8. #8
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    I'm curious what you're building and what the final result will be. You need 6 pins per shelf for one shelf?



    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Walton View Post
    I've found the shelf pin rundown article at https://sawmillcreek.org/content.php...gs-and-Methods. What I am not sure of is the pins spacing from the side of the upright. It seems most of these assume both upright sides are the same width and space from the edge of the upright. The WWA Shelf Pin Jig looks like it might do what I want, but I'd rather buy on than make one.

    I have a project coming up that has a 20" upright on each side and a 12 upright in the middle. Hope that makes sense. I want the spacing to be based on the middle upright and mirror over to the right and left side uprights. The jig could space off the back of the uprights to work. Do any of the jigs function like that?

    TIA,
    Bruce Walton
    Yes, I have 3 phase!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenfield, Indiana
    Posts
    38

    Crafting Cabinet

    I'm building a crafting cabinet. It is sorta like the Dream Box, but not as big or expensive. It will have a table that folds down from inside the cabinet. The shelves will be inset from the front a few inches to provide room for the table to sit inside the cabinet when not in use. The shelves will only need the standard four holes per shelf rather than six holes. See the attached rendering. You'll notice the center upright is inset from the sides as are the shelves. That is why jigs that reference from the edge won't work.

    HingeTableAssemblyUpdate_2024-Feb-13_12-23-26AM-000_CustomizedView16973581508.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by andrew whicker View Post
    I'm curious what you're building and what the final result will be. You need 6 pins per shelf for one shelf?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    NE Ohio
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    Here's the jig I made:
    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ighlight=shelf

    It works mindlessly simple.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  11. #11
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    Nov 2013
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    Waterford, PA
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    The jig from Woodpecker will do that. It will produce either 1" or 32 mm spacing and permits both 1/4" and 5 mm holes. It isn't cheap, but it is very flexible.

  12. #12
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    If I understand correctly (big if) then you could make a shop made jig (plywood w predrilled guide holes and a stop glued on) and use a spacer block to get the location difference from the front edge vs making a super deep jig to get the front column from the back edge.
    Yes, I have 3 phase!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenfield, Indiana
    Posts
    38
    No if. Yes, you understand correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by andrew whicker View Post
    If I understand correctly (big if) then you could make a shop made jig (plywood w predrilled guide holes and a stop glued on) and use a spacer block to get the location difference from the front edge vs making a super deep jig to get the front column from the back edge.

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