Accurate Bandsaw Cross cut?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Can't a 10" CMS non-slider, cut 2.5" thick by 5"?

I cut a lot of 2x6s on my 10" DeWalt. Those are 5.5".

[al ladd]

Just as resawing requires a fence adjusted for any possible drift angle, so good cross cutting requires the table be aligned to the blade. This sometimes varies from blade to blade, but good carbide blades, which will leave a better finish, are in my experience more reliable than steel. Then you can cross cut cleanly with even a simple miter guage--though a sled will give you more stock control if the pieces are long.

[Dave Sabo]

Just as resawing requires a fence adjusted for any possible drift angle, so good cross cutting requires the table be aligned to the blade. This sometimes varies from blade to blade, but good carbide blades, which will leave a better finish, are in my experience more reliable than steel. Then you can cross cut cleanly with even a simple miter guage--though a sled will give you more stock control if the pieces are long.

Not necessarily.

It only requires your miter gauge or sled or jig be set cut 90deg to the cut line. Some saws don’t even have miter gauges. Sure it’d be mo better if your gauge read 90 deg. for a 90deg cut , but it’s strictly not necessary.

There are also some instances in which drift ( and your table’s relation 90deg ) will change when you swap blades. So you could go through the whole table aligning process or just set your gauge (fence) to whatever setting is needed to produce 90. That’s a whole lot faster then futzing with the table.

YMMV

[Adel Heiba]

Thank you for all the suggestions!

The ‘Miter Jack’ is a neat idea; but, the complexity of its construction would make the original problem a trivial exercise. However something like the Miter Jack could be used for related problems.

regards

[Edward Weber]

Not necessarily.

It only requires your miter gauge or sled or jig be set cut 90deg to the cut line. Some saws don’t even have miter gauges. Sure it’d be mo better if your gauge read 90 deg. for a 90deg cut , but it’s strictly not necessary.

There are also some instances in which drift ( and your table’s relation 90deg ) will change when you swap blades. So you could go through the whole table aligning process or just set your gauge (fence) to whatever setting is needed to produce 90. That’s a whole lot faster then futzing with the table.

YMMV

With respect, I can't easily follow your logic.

Set your saw up ONCE, with the lower wheel, table and fence aligned, you should never need to adjust them again.
Any "drifting" from dull, poorly welded or otherwise cheap blades, can be adjusted by the onboard tracking mechanism.
You should not ever need to realign the table unless something extreme occurs.
BS-Track (500 x 539).jpg

[Derek Cohen]

Thank you for all the suggestions!

The ‘Miter Jack’ is a neat idea; but, the complexity of its construction would make the original problem a trivial exercise. However something like the Miter Jack could be used for related problems.

regards

Adel, mention of the mter jack was made to name the ideal tool. But, like you, I do not own own. Years ago I needed something like one to make some tricky saw cuts (tenon shoulders on curved stretchers). I came up with this rig - a hand screw (as a guide) and Japanese saw (as it can lie flat) ...



Regards from Perth

Derek