gloves

[Gordon Stump]

As I get older I find my ability to stay on focus needs conscious focus. I would not wear cut resistant gloves for spinning blades but am considering them for the stroke sander and edge sander. The edge of the stroke sander belt cuts like butter with a hot knife. The edge sander will sand off layers of skin.

Any experience using gloves in the wood shop?

Thanks, Gordon

[Warren Lake]

old cabinetmaker I knew cut fingers twice on the edge of the stroke belt, either off or very deep. Memory was cut off and sown back on, I remember both were crooked. It was a thing I had never heard of before. Top of the belt is covered on my machine so its just the bottom one to deal with and ive never got into it so far.

[Edward Weber]

I wear gloves occasionally at different machines. A good snug fit is imperative.
I recently got some "fingerless framers gloves" no thumb, index or middle finger. They provide protection but still allow enough dexterity to operate most anything, like switches.

Juat an example
https://www.techtoolsupply.com/Produ...ource=googleps

[Richard Coers]

In my opinion abrasive will grind right through a "cut proof" glove. That is how they cut carbon fiber.

[Michael Burnside]

I use these when milling and handling rough lumber. They are also conductive so they are sensed by SawStop tech, phone screens, etc. Once lumber has been milled, I don't wear gloves. I would not worry about wearing these with an edge sander.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...-Dipped-Gloves

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...-Dipped-Gloves

[Tom M King]

I couldn't find the exact ones I use for some sheet metal work, but they're very similar to these. They have coated working surfaces like these and the rest has a stainless steel mesh in them. They run small. I normally wear a L size glove but needed an XL in these. I have never cut a hand when wearing them.

https://www.amazon.com/Schwer-Protec...06&sr=8-7&th=1

[Gordon Stump]

In my opinion abrasive will grind right through a "cut proof" glove. That is how they cut carbon fiber.

"Cut proof" your words.

[Brian Runau]

I only use gloves when buying, moving lumber prior to milling to prevent splinters. Personally wouldn't have the feel I need through gloves. Brian

[George Yetka]

I were snug gloves when rough milling assuming I have more than 10 bf to do. And ill use nitrile when finishing

[Kevin Jenness]

I stay away from gloves around woodworking machinery. I used to use rubber coated gloves to keep my hands warm (neuropathy) and to improve my grip, especially when jointing, but a couple of incidents changed my mind.

A colleague lost part of a finger ("just the tip" is what he named the new mountain bike purchased with his workman's comp settlement) on the jointer when he was in a hurry, making a new part after a miscut. He is convinced that the glove tip got caught and pulled in his finger.

I came close to disaster wearing gloves while hollowing a vessel on the lathe. I let the chips build up too much in the cavity to the point where the tool tip caught and the handle started spinning like a flail with my hand attached. Fortunately the rubber coated fingers tore free from the glove body or I might be typing this one-handed. I do still wear fingerless gloves in the shop as my hands feel unbearably cold otherwise but that's a risk I'm willing to take. I keep the full gloves for material handling away from machines.

If you are having problems concentrating, step away from machinery until you can bring your full attention to bear. Take frequent breaks, take a walk, whatever it takes to keep your mind on task and your hands away from the sharp bits. If you must wear gloves be sure they fit snugly with little to no overhang beyond your fingertips.

[Jimmy Harris]

Really, if you're getting to the point where you don't trust your focus, it might be time to consider switching to hand tools and just hand sanding. Or limit your time in the shop, so you're not taxing your ability to focus too much.

If you do decide to use gloves, I'd go to the store and try on a bunch. The thing about gloves is, fitment is the most important factor. If a glove hampers mobility, or is loose in any way, it's not going to be safe to wear around power tools. You're going to want something that feels like an extra layer of skin, not like a glove over your skin. And I'd just go with some thin, leather gloves, or something similar. A power sander will eat through anything short of chain mail in a hurry. So really, the best you can hope for is something that will buy you a fraction of second while still providing enough feel to let you know you've made a mistake. A thick, cut proof glove might buy you another half second, but it won't warn you something is wrong as quickly.

[George Yetka]

Really, if you're getting to the point where you don't trust your focus, it might be time to consider switching to hand tools and just hand sanding. Or limit your time in the shop, so you're not taxing your ability to focus too much.

If you do decide to use gloves, I'd go to the store and try on a bunch. The thing about gloves is, fitment is the most important factor. If a glove hampers mobility, or is loose in any way, it's not going to be safe to wear around power tools. You're going to want something that feels like an extra layer of skin, not like a glove over your skin. And I'd just go with some thin, leather gloves, or something similar. A power sander will eat through anything short of chain mail in a hurry. So really, the best you can hope for is something that will buy you a fraction of second while still providing enough feel to let you know you've made a mistake. A thick, cut proof glove might buy you another half second, but it won't warn you something is wrong as quickly.

Milwaukee cut level 1 gloves seam to fit this bill for me. They are snug fitting. Like I said they work for me with jointing and planing rough lumber then they come off.

[Aaron Inami]

You should not wear gloves on any machinery that has a toothed blade or cutter that may grab and pull on the glove (i.e. table saw, miter saw, band saw, jointer, planer, shaper, router table, etc.). I have worn gloves at times when doing edge sanding and also when handling materials and lumber.

I have seen Jay Bates on youtube use some sort of neoprene gripper glove when pushing wood over the top of his jointer. I think I would be paranoid even doing this and would rather use GRR-Ripper push blocks or something.

[Cameron Wood]

I wear gloves much of the time, mostly very thin coated-palm ones that I buy by the gross. Also the somewhat thicker Milwaukee ones for heavier work.

They protect against the small insults and minor splinters while having the dexterity to pick up a penny, reach into the pants pocket, or open a pocket knife blade. I have done this professionally for decades.

Thicker gloves for certain chores, but around moving machinery tend to produce more danger than safety, IMO.

[Michael Burnside]

You should not wear gloves on any machinery that has a toothed blade or cutter that may grab and pull on the glove (i.e. table saw, miter saw, band saw, jointer, planer, shaper, router table, etc.). I have worn gloves at times when doing edge sanding and also when handling materials and lumber.

I have seen Jay Bates on youtube use some sort of neoprene gripper glove when pushing wood over the top of his jointer. I think I would be paranoid even doing this and would rather use GRR-Ripper push blocks or something.

Rather than turn this topic into a wholesale SawStop-esqe conversation, let's just agree to disagree on your first point about never wearing gloves, particularly the cut level 1 I linked above. As far as glove vs. GRR-Ripper on the Jointer, I agree for face jointing, but to each their own.