gloves

[Richard Coers]

"Cut proof" your words.

Okay, powered abrasives will cut through cut resistant gloves much faster than a single blade knife. Better? I just have to stop responding to the internet!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Shortly before I retired, my employer sent cut proof gloves to all field employees. I took mine to the shop and the first time I wore them while moving some lumber in my shop, a long splinter went through the glove and broke off at an angle that made removing the glove without doing further damage, nearly impossible. I threw the gloves out. When the job requires, I wear leather gloves. But seldom find it necessary to wear them in the shop.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Rather than turn this topic into a wholesale SawStop-esqe conversation, let's just agree to disagree.....

I believe this has nothing to do with SS rants - wholesale, retail, or other. The critical issue is not what can cut your flesh, but what can grab at a glove's fingers.

The spur on a brad point bit, for example, without drawing blood could catch a glove's finger[s] and do tremendous damage to the hand/arm/body if it were in a drill press, and merely awful damage in a cordless drill. While uncommon in home shops, powered chains/sprockets and belts/sheaves are on the same risk/results curve. These same cautions apply to loose-fitting sleeves on shirts/jackets.

No flesh would provide contact to activate the SS wizardry, so it would provide no protection.

In my years in industrial/commercial settings, proper safety management prohibited gloves and loose-fitting sleeves around things that turn, pinch, grab, etc.

[Edward Weber]

Rather than turn this topic into a wholesale SawStop-esqe conversation, let's just agree to disagree on your first point about never wearing gloves, particularly the cut level 1 I linked above. As far as glove vs. GRR-Ripper on the Jointer, I agree for face jointing, but to each their own.

Agreed,
Just as I don't let my bare finger get into harms way, I don't let the gloves get near blades and cutters, there is no difference. If my gloved clad hand is close enough to a blade or bit that it gets caught, then my hand was too close, don't blame the glove.
Gloves are there to provide some protection for my hands, they are not a substitute for a safe work method.
I know the risks, I wear gloves, many different types for many different tasks.

[jack duren]

I never wear gloves regardless. But when I was on blood thinner I was having a heck of time not scraping and bleeding. Until I got off tye blood thinners I wore fingerless….
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[Lee Schierer]

You should not wear gloves on any machinery that has a toothed blade or cutter that may grab and pull on the glove (i.e. table saw, miter saw, band saw, jointer, planer, shaper, router table, etc.).

I agree!!!!

[Larry Edgerton]

I keep cheap motocross gloves around. They fit tightly, have a good gripping surface and can be had for about $6. I like them for roughing out stock and sanding, Hands are getting weak and they allow me to work longer I always cut the left index finger off. There are no hard and fast rules, the guys that say"Never wear gloves" crack me up. Just use your head and they can make your workday more pleasant.

[Tom M King]

Here are the ones we (me and my helpers) use for moving lumber, metal, and general use around the Ponderosa. I'm wearing them when I'm driving a tractor or mower. I could never get much done with stiff leather gloves. Like boots, they slow me up too much. The black dots make them last a lot longer than the cotton work gloves without the dots. They're laying around the shop in a bunch of places, in the truck, in tractors, so it's easy to find a pair. I almost never wear them when running pieces through a saw or over a jointer, but often when using a planer.

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[Gordon Stump]

My original post stated I was considering using gloves on the stroke sander and edge sander. Then I asked if anyone had experience using gloves in the woodworking shop. That was the wrong guery and I guess I opened an interesting discussion. The question should have been.....Does anyone have experience using gloves on the stroke sander and edge sander.

So I took matters into my own hands I held a leather glove against the edge on a running 195" 80 Grit belt for 10 seconds. It did not cut into the glove or grab the glove at all. Then I held the glove on the surface of the belt. It basically cleaned the leather with no grabbing.

Next I held the glove against the surface of a 80" belt on the edge sander. No grab and just cleaned the dirt off the leather.

Oh, regarding the "really" comment about losing focus, I am not ready for assisted living just yet and I appreciate your concern.

All good, love this forum!

[Warren Lake]

I dont see them for the stroke or edge sander. IM a pad guy and not the travelling arm and im always on top of the back side of the lower belt on the wood. Its pretty hard to hit it sideways. My upper belt is protected. The old british cqbinet maker likely did his damage on the top belt on a machine not covered. He was 83 at the time and still working but had done the damage long past. Didnt ask him for specifics and should have. I guess you want them for the edge in case you slip into it.

when I did lots of work in solid there were calluses and no need to wear gloves. I have tried sticky faced rubber ones even knowing its wrong on the jointer to get traction. Worked well enough but didnt keep doing it. Ive always used a wet sponge in a rubbermaid container and just put my fingers on it and get better grip on the board when needed.

What type of stroke sander.

[Cameron Wood]

Real world testing? Imagine that!

[jack duren]

Gloves..
if you don’t know when to wear them in the shop, you need a lot more help than this..

[Tom Bain]

Personally, I never wear gloves when operating woodworking machinery (I do when moving raw lumber to minimize splinters). If I encounter a situation where I'm concerned about having a good or proper grip on a workpiece, my first inclination is to think about jigs or fixtures to improve workholding and/or enables my hands to be in a safer position.

[Gordon Stump]

What type of stroke sander.

DSCF2695.JPG

You are right Warren. I got in to far on the top belt twice in the last 30 years. Not too bad but the cuts were fairly deep and takes a long time to heal. The stroke sander is a kit. It took me a long time to figure this out. I am thick headed.

[Warren Lake]

thanks now that adds up and ill have to check my middle one,. I built the first one for a company then bought it from them years later then had a progress then this itailian. I have memory of a cut on my forehead and was thinking how is that possible. Well very likely the progress had not upper belt protection and that is how it happened. The italian one now the top belt is covered and I think it came cut in half and I welded it back to one long cover. past owner did it for sanding on the top but I use the edge sander and not really needed the top position so the lid is always down. Even one reason if the belt ever mistracks or breaks the top cover is a positive thing as it wont.

Id work out a less invasive top belt cover that comes from behind as thats visually almost in the way. Does make sense thanks for the photo , understand what you have to work with now and how you could catch that. So its clear at this point for strokes an upper cover is a positive thing. some really large machines have the belts way up high and not be an issue think some old large wadkin machines.

I checked and the first built had no guard, The progress upper had no guard either. I saw one from an auction where they built a shelf under the belt with a board then put a second over top, that way they would be protected and also its covered from the top but lift the top board off and it becomes a sanding surface. Just a mcigiver job but it might work for you and be safer and not in the way. I always planned to add some LED four footers under the upper cover and maybe a few on the wall then experiment what works best.