Miter Bar Help, Please

[Derek Arita]

I’m looking for help finding good miter bars for a sled. They have to be at least 24” and screw in from the top. I’ve seen some with only 3 miter slot adjusters, however I’d like to have more. Any recommendations?

[Ronald Blue]

I see WoodPeckers has a 25.5" that appears to check all your boxes. Multiple adjusters and tapped holes for top mount. It isn't cheap but it might be worth it if it's a sled you expect to use often.

https://www.woodpeck.com/miter-bar-e90-mb.html

[Derek Arita]

I see WoodPeckers has a 25.5" that appears to check all your boxes. Multiple adjusters and tapped holes for top mount. It isn't cheap but it might be worth it if it's a sled you expect to use often.

https://www.woodpeck.com/miter-bar-e90-mb.html

Boy, that sure does seem to fit the bill, although as usual with WP, it’s pricey. Thanks.

[Michael Burnside]

I was going to link the WP one Ronald sent. I’ve used it, very well made. I’ve also used one from Rockler, Powertec and FastCap. The WP is my favorite.

[Jerry Bruette]

Check out Incra Miter Sliders. I used them for my cross cut sled.

[Derek Arita]

Ok…so I just purchased a pair of both the Incra and Woodpecker miter bars. The one question I have is, how do you attach the miter bar from the top? For some reason, I can’t imagine how that’s done.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Is there going to be an adjust for square/parallel to the sled other than properly fixing the miter bar, e.g. the back stop? If the miter bar has to be dead square when installed, I'd mark the holes from the bottom, make them oversize by a 1/32nd or so, attach the bar to the sled loosely with machine screws, then epoxy it and set it in place on the table saw. When dry, seat the machine screws tightly. There is probably a better method, but that is what I use.

[Derek Arita]

Is there going to be an adjust for square/parallel to the sled other than properly fixing the miter bar, e.g. the back stop? If the miter bar has to be dead square when installed, I'd mark the holes from the bottom, make them oversize by a 1/32nd or so, attach the bar to the sled loosely with machine screws, then epoxy it and set it in place on the table saw. When dry, seat the machine screws tightly. There is probably a better method, but that is what I use.

What I used to do with wood bars was to put the bars in the slots, slightly raised, apply some glue to them, then place the sled on top of them, aligned with the front of the table. That way I knew the bars were exactly aligned with the slots. Adjustment for square is achieved by adjusting the position of the sled’s front stop. How can I exactly position the metal bars to the slots? I don’t believe measuring is precise enough and surely they can’t be glued? Not only that, how do I mark for screw holes thru the metal bar?

[Patrick Varley]

What I used to do with wood bars was to put the bars in the slots, slightly raised, apply some glue to them, then place the sled on top of them, aligned with the front of the table. That way I knew the bars were exactly aligned with the slots. Adjustment for square is achieved by adjusting the position of the sled’s front stop. How can I exactly position the metal bars to the slots? I don’t believe measuring is precise enough and surely they can’t be glued? Not only that, how do I mark for screw holes thru the metal bar?

A couple ways on the marking that I've used:

Pointed grub screws. Screw into the thread holes, place bars in slot, then tap the base to mark the holes.

Put a bar in the slot, then slide the bar and base forward so the first hole is exposed. Use a transfer punch from the bottom (through the bar) to mark the first hole. Drill the hole in the base and insert screw somits fixed in one position. Then you can mark the last hole on the bar(s) by sliding it all the way forward.

Put painters tape on the miter bar and base of the sled where they meet. Use super glue to attach the runners to the sled on the taped surfaces, as you would wood runners. Flip it over and transfer punch to mark all the holes. Remove bars/tape. Drill holes and attach.

I also like to use low profile cap screws. Pan head also works and are obviously more readily available. Then you can counterbore the hole and make the actual screw hole a bit larger to give you some adjustment room. Then you loosen all the screws a bit, put the sled in place, and tighten things down so it self-aligns. Doesn't work as well with countersunk flat head machine screws.

[Rich Engelhardt]

What I used to do with wood bars was to put the bars in the slots, slightly raised, apply some glue to them, then place the sled on top of them, aligned with the front of the table. That way I knew the bars were exactly aligned with the slots. Adjustment for square is achieved by adjusting the position of the sled’s front stop. How can I exactly position the metal bars to the slots? I don’t believe measuring is precise enough and surely they can’t be glued? Not only that, how do I mark for screw holes thru the metal bar?

Super glue will hold the metal bar in place long enough to drill and tap it. Just glue it on, drill it all the way through the bar and sled, flip the sled over and countersink the hole, then flip the sled back over and tap the hole in the bar.

This tap and die set from HF works very well for small stuff like that
I bought one years ago to tap the holes I drilled in the cast iron of me table saw top so I could mount an outfeed support.
I've had to use it a few more times over the years for other small things.
It's one of the HF gems for softer metals.

[Dan Cameron]

What I used to do with wood bars was to put the bars in the slots, slightly raised, apply some glue to them, then place the sled on top of them, aligned with the front of the table. That way I knew the bars were exactly aligned with the slots. Adjustment for square is achieved by adjusting the position of the sled’s front stop. How can I exactly position the metal bars to the slots? I don’t believe measuring is precise enough and surely they can’t be glued? Not only that, how do I mark for screw holes thru the metal bar?

Derek, can you explain to us "one miter bar" enthusiasts how it makes any sense to install two adjustable bars in a sled?

[Randy Heinemann]

I absolutely recommend the Woodpecker miter bar over any other I tried, including the Incra miter bars. Woodpeckers bar doesn't require any adjustment to fit the slot on your tablesaw (or I suppose router table or bandsaw or any tool that has a miter slot). The leaf springs along the bar just fit because they compress to fit the slot. They slide effortlessly. I have an Incra miter sled which can't be adjusted to perfectly fit my miter slot on the tablesaw. There is always one section of the miter slot at which there is some play or it's too tight. I made a Wedgie Sled for cutting segments for segmented bowls and, even though I had to cut part of it off to make it work, it was worth every penny. The Woodpecker miter bar fits everywhere and never binds anywhere along the slot... and it's 25.5" long. It just works.