Heat Storm 6000 Garage Heater

[Steve Demuth]

Yeah, I've seen several You-Tube videos showing the same type of set-up with a small fan helping to regulate the temperature that the thermal sensor sees. The problem seems to be a combination of the thermal sensor being mounted inside the housing near the heat source, and the fact that these heaters are usually mounted to the ceiling where heat rises.

Heat Storm is aware of this issue & on their newest model (only available through their website) they have included a wireless remote thermostat.

Mine has a wireless remote thermostat, which I find handy. That doesn't really solve the problem though. What's dumb about this is that it would be simple and probably cost next to nothing for the manufacturer's to make it an option for the fan to run even when the element is not on, if the heater is powered on. The fan is already on a separately controlled circuit inside the unit, and it's already under control of the logic setup. I considered altering the wiring on mine so that the fan runs whenever the main power switch is on, but there isn't really any way to do it, due all the logic, including the "power on" logic being in a single chip.

[Doug Walls]

make it an option for the fan to run even when the element is not on, if the heater is powered on. The fan is already on a separately controlled circuit inside the unit, and it's already under control of the logic setup.

The Heat Storm unit I have has something like that built in, when the heater is shut off the fan will still run for a little bit to cool down the heating elements.

[Doug Walls]

see if you can put a remote thermostat on it.

I took the back panel off & the thermostat was easy to get at, just one small screw holding it in place.
IMG_0319.jpg
There's a little plug for the thermostat, so it wouldn't be hard to make up a jumper wire for it if needed.
Thermostat Plug .jpg
I remounted the thermostat outside of the heater's case like showed in the video & it seems to work well while setting on my workbench.
Once I get the new power line ran for it & get it mounted up near the celling, I'll get a better idea of how the modified thermostat location is working out.
Pic's of the new thermostat location (heater sitting upside down) once mounted to the bracket, the thermostat will be below the heater.
IMG_0338.jpgIMG_0337.jpg

[Doug Walls]

I had a similar product in my old shop for a couple years before I bought the mini split.

Did you have it hard wired, or was there a cord to it?

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I mounted my Heat Storm above my toolboxes so that it's out of the way.
Temporary location .jpg

Being that it's a temporary set-up I connected a 240-volt dryer cord to the heater & installed a 14-30R outlet.
On another forum, I had a guy mention that attaching the cord to the wall so that it doesn't saag or drupe down is a code violation?

[Jim Becker]

Did you have it hard wired, or was there a cord to it?

Hard wired per the specifications. It's less expensive to install that way, too...just the 10-2 cable from the breaker panel to the heater location, a j-box for a splice with appropriate compression fittings (I use a short piece of 10-3 rubber coated between the ceiling and the heater) and a 30 amp double pole breaker. If I didn't want power to go to the heater, such as during the non-heating seasons, I shut off the breaker. I fitted an inexpensive external thermostat to the heater, too.

I found this photo from the old shop after I installed that Farenheat unit in 2017:



That said, I don't see an issue using a short cord and plug to an existing circuit like you describe that meets or exceeds the amperage rating for temporary use. I can't comment on the code violation question, but securing a cord by reasonable means so it's not a safety issue is something I'd likely do for obvious reasons. Based on your photo...you'd get no argument from me. That's a clean looking installation.

[Doug Walls]

Thanks for the pic!
Thats kind of how I'll eventually wire mine up once I finish the ceiling & figure out the best heater placement location.

So far, this location seems to be working out well! It's out of the way & heats up the center of the garage where I usually work.
Until I can get a ceiling installed & insulated, I do think a small fan mounted up in the rafters will help circulate the rising heat that's not needed up there.

I can't comment on the code violation question, but securing a cord by reasonable means so it's not a safety issue is something I'd likely do for obvious reasons.

I hadn't heard of any code issues from having power cords attached to a wall before, but then I'm also not a licensed electrician.
I did know that it's not ok to run a power cord behind drywall, ceiling panel, or under floorboards.

[Bill Dufour]

I do not understand how you can run an electric resistance heater and not have enough power to run a heatpump minisplit? They make 120 volt heatpumps.
Bill D

[Doug Walls]

I do not understand how you can run an electric resistance heater and not have enough power to run a heatpump minisplit?
Bill D

Yeah, you're correct in thinking that if I can run a 25-amp heater I could also run a mini-split.
The main difference is the cost, $200 for the electric heater & $1,500~$2,000 for the mini-split.

With my current electrical service, I'm limited to 45-amps max in the garage!
This means I would not be able to run my table saw & dust collector at the same time as the heater or mini-split.

I can't really justify the extra cost of the mini split until I can take advantage of using it as intended for the AC during the Summer.
I also do a fair amount or metalworking & 95% of that is done outside where heat or AC is not a factor. I usually try to do that kind of work in the Spring & Fall when the temps. are better for working outside.

[Tom Bender]

So a small fan to suck heat down from the peak would be temporary. You might want to collect from more than one spot on the ridge. If you decide to go with temporary ducting consider heavy cardboard and package tape. Minimal cost and done in a day.

Sharing the compressor outlet has the advantage of preventing the heater and compressor from running together.

[Doug Walls]

So a small fan to suck heat down from the peak would be temporary.

Temporary is the key word here; I plan to get a ceiling installed pretty soon, I hope to have it finished by May before it gets too warm up in the rafters.

Sharing the compressor outlet has the advantage of preventing the heater and compressor from running together.

I have the heater on its own circuit now, but due to my currently limited power supply (45-amps) to the garage I have to pay attention to what's all switched on at a time. If I'm running my DeWalt 735 planner & 3HP dust collector together, I'm pretty close to the limits of my available power.