Lol, I meant from a glue gun.
Originally Posted by Mel Fulks
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Lol, I meant from a glue gun.
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Some projects don't lend themselves to band clamps. This was a table made from two L shapes. Here I did not use brown paper, just glued on the clamp blocks with a rub joint. I sawed them off with a Japanese saw, hand planed off to clean up. It's important to get the line of clamping through the center of the joint.
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Last edited by Edwin Santos; 01-16-2024 at 6:29 PM.
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Nice corner joint, Edwin. Are the holes shown in the last picture for locating another case?
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Edwin. Really cool corner joint. (Non)hidden dovetail miter? Cut the same way as the hidden variety? Kudos.
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Hi,
Thanks for the compliment! Yes, the holes are dowel holes for locating the vertical partitions that form the drawer box. Below is a completed photo that shows you how the two L pieces come together to form the table. The dovetail joint had to be cut by hand pins first where the pins were cut like a half blind, then the waste was mostly routed away with jig that held the workpiece at 45 degrees. The tail piece was cut like a normal through joint and then mitered at the table saw. It was kinda tricky, but not as hard as it sounds. Worth it though if you want the waterfall grain to be uninterrupted on the table's horizontal surface. Maybe I'm hijacking the thread, but the glued on miter blocks were a good way to clamp up the two L forms.
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That is a nice piece, I'm glad you showed the whole project. How is the shelf projection on the right side attached to the vertical fin?
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Hey, great trip down memory lane. I've tried a variation of the brown paper bag trick with drops of glue, and it worked surprisingly well. But lately I've been leaning on band clamps too.
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Absolutely!
I was very surprised to see how infrequently it's mentioned here. It was something taught in Shop 1 when I was in high school. We used newspaper and wheat paste though since it washed right off with water.
I've switched over to Elmer's School glue - but - still use a piece of newspaper.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
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Agreed with Kevin, nicely done. My favorite part is the staggered drawers.
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Long 2" dowels that go through the vertical leg and into the opposing horizontal shelf. The shelf sits in a shallow stopped dado, same with the shelf on the opposing side. I used a shop made dowel jig that registered in the dado.
These are quick and easy to batch out. No post glue-up clean-up required.
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Obviously not good for long mitered edges ;-)
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
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There are tons of methods that will work. The problem with gluing temporary blocks is that you'll have to remove them. And that's extra work, especially if you're going to stain the wood afterwords. One thing I've done that's similar to this method is to use handscrew clamps to mimic the glue blocks, and draw them together with F clamps. You'll probably want to line the jaws of the handscrew clamps with something for extra grip, so they don't slide around too much. But you can usually angle them to get two parallel surfaces to put your regular clamps on, and you'll have a surface on the top and bottom so you can use two clamps and get a nice, even, and flush joint. I also use this method for glueing mortised angled legs to tops. Just make sure to align your handscrew clamps so that the center of force of your F clamps are pulling down directly over the mortise instead of along the angle of the leg.
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You can make corner blocks and clamp in both directions, unless the top, etc is too long for a clamp in both directions.,I use them on corner Susan’s for 22.5…
[OP]
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Colleagues: been an interesting thread. I now feel I was not imaging what I remember about using brown paper and glue blocks to the stock. Appreciate all the comments and “ways of doing things.” Cheers and all the best.
Last edited by Ray Newman; 01-23-2024 at 10:52 AM.
Contributor
Blue painters tape on both parts, CA glue, and accelerator is all I use. Unlike double sided, this method has no creep and is way stronger. I turn 12"+ blanks attached to a 4" face plate with this method and haven't had a failure.
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