Beeswax?

[Scott Winners]

I agree with, well everybody so far. I really like the look of a wax finish, but it is not a finish for high wear surfaces. If you put it on a chair seat some of the wax will come off on the seat of your pants, every time, until there is no wax left. If you like the look, on something like a Xmas tree ornament, it should last a good long time and be easy to maintain every few years.

Couple pics of my saw till taken tonight. I finished the interior and drawer fronts with an oil, I think hemp, maybe tung, and then applied #31 from Don's barn dot com to the drawer fronts and perch rails- it's three parts beeswax and one part carnuba. The interior panels had the same whatever oil and Johnson's paste wax. Since 03-11-2022 all I have done is suck out the nooks and crannies with a shop vac every now and again, and then wipe down with a clean dry rag. A swiffer would probably work good. Just touching the drawer fronts tonight they are perfectly smooth still, but all I have done is clean them every few months for coming up on two years.

I honestly don't recall which wax I used on the figured beech French cleat at the top of the case, probably Johnson's.

There are I think 2 videos on youtube of Don's beeswax purification process. He is now retired after 30 some years as a furniture conservator at the Smithsonian. I weigh both my beeswax and #31 on a gram scale every time I use them. One of my goals for 2024 is to order a lifetime supply of each while Don is still selling product. Buffing out the #31 is a memorable cold hearted witch, probably a LOT easier on a lathe.

[Terence McGee]

It can be difficult to apply beeswax from these chunks... You'll have to get the right consistency so you can spread it evenly on your project's surface. I think that that product is used by manufacturers/formulators.

For wood projects, it's best to stick to commercial finishes like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Cli...dp/B07JMFKMD4/

Also, beeswax can melt at high temperatures, so keep your climate in mind when using this finish. Keep your project away from the sunlight, too. The finish doesn't also doesn't last very long, so you'll have to maintain and retouch your project every now and then.

For woodturning projects, I often turn to Danish oil or lacquer. For a food-safe finish, Tung or walnut oil as well as shellac are good options.

[Reed Gray]

I had to look on the jug, but I use the Doctor's "Microcrystal Wax Bowl Finish". The doctor, because he has a PHD in Chemistry. He does some thing to his carnauba wax so that you don't need heat or solvents to get it to flow/spread.

robo hippy

[Bill Howatt]

Anybody want to try this: beeswax, carnauba and walnut/tung oil. Says its easy to apply and buff - no endorsement but looks interesting.
https://woodshopmike.com/how-to-make...xic-paste-wax/

[John Kananis]

Great, I found it - thanks for the direction, Reed. Is this the only finish you use for turnings?

I had to look on the jug, but I use the Doctor's "Microcrystal Wax Bowl Finish". The doctor, because he has a PHD in Chemistry. He does some thing to his carnauba wax so that you don't need heat or solvents to get it to flow/spread.

robo hippy

[Reed Gray]

I use it on bowls and rolling pins. OH, cutting boards also. I make end grain ones, and put it on with a heat gun after it has soaked most of it up.

robo hippy

[John Kananis]

Great, thank you again.

I use it on bowls and rolling pins. OH, cutting boards also. I make end grain ones, and put it on with a heat gun after it has soaked most of it up.

robo hippy

[Don Stephan]

John

Are you after a particular look? Would the beeswax be for items likely to handled often? Washed?

[John Kananis]

Hey Don, I'm just experimenting really. I've been watching a bunch of Richard Raffan videos and noticed he uses it so figured I'd give it a whirl.

John

Are you after a particular look? Would the beeswax be for items likely to handled often? Washed?