They look great. The conical ferrules made it a more challenging project.
They look great. The conical ferrules made it a more challenging project.
Yes exactly. I didnt think those through completely (in fact were secondary), which is what made the transitions less than ideal. For sure I could have machined in place as Derek suggested - but my dimensions were off to begin with given the angles and pipe bushing I started with (which I had to figure as well, how to machine). So 'most' of them are different dimensions from each other. Making 6 identical is another type of challenge.
It will be straightforward the 'next time' to accommodate. Part of the learning process and why experience often yields a better result. And a fraction of the time.
But its all good - I set out to upgrade my everyday set with something reasonable cost. Mission accomplished. And overall, was quite enjoyable project. Which is my goal as a hobbiest.
Thanks everyone for sharing your insights/knowledge.
Which triggers another question:
What is the functionality of the ferrule? I assume to prevent splitting at the end of the wood. But - other than ascetics, does it matter how long they are? These are a little bit long to match the angles fore/aft.
My early attempt they were shorter, which in some ways I liked better. Does it matter?
IMO, the ferrule does offer some prevention of splitting yet chisels and other wood handled tools tend to look odd without a ferrule.
That could be an instinctual expectation built into people from so many years of it being employed in tool & utensil making.
Just my 2¢ Two Cents.png…
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Ferrules are, as you say to keep the wood from splitting. As for size, that depends on many things, aesthetics being just one.
What material they're made from. how thick, etc, steel hoops on Japanese chisels are quite short, while brass hoops and ferrules on western tools are typically much longer., due to brass being a softer material.
Ferrules can be made from anything from string or wire, on up to steel pipe. The aesthetics is typically in conjunction with the material used.
There is a need for a ferrule only if there is a risk of the wood deforming. Since these chisels resemble sockets, the ferrule appears superfluous. However, they are attached with a tang. Could they do without a ferrule? Possibly not, as the tang is stout and the walls of the handle are thin at the join. With the ferrule, the overall construction is more a Japanese oire nomi or the Veritas bench chisels.
Carl, the time to file the ferrules flush is after the construction, not when they are turned on the lathe.
Regards from Perth
Derek
The chisels came with straight (steel) ferrules which is what I modeled the dimensions from, but then it crept up in length as I added a taper. I went with brass because I had some fittings I could modify, and the wall is much thicker than the original steel ones.
But there are multiple ways to improve it with some basic design/assembly changes, and will try a different approach next time. Starting with more uniformity of the ferrules themselves.
At this point its a matter of putting them to use!
Last edited by Carl Beckett; 01-21-2024 at 7:13 PM.