Chisel handles

[Rafael Herrera]

Stanley was late to the chisel party, but made a splash with their patented Everlasting line in 1911, the ones with steel caps.

https://archive.org/details/stanleyn...ge/n1/mode/1up

There was a leather washer between the steel cap and the wooden handle.

The majority of their chisels were socket chisels with leather capped handles, not really what we have been discussing.

Leather caps for the handles were offered by other makers as early as 1912.

https://archive.org/details/LoganGre...e/n78/mode/1up

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I thought the debate was regarding the leather washer between the chisel bolster and the bottom of the handle.

In the last 100 years chisels have not changed in a fundamental way. I don't think the addition of leather washers, whether on top or bottom of the handle, is of any significance. The steel composition has evolved to the point where today there are many options, O1, A2, PM-V11, Cr-V, etc. etc. There are plenty of options for the needs of any woodworker.

The cast steel used in the 19th century was really good stuff for woodworking tools, finding a decent Ward, Sorby or Marples bench chisel is always a treat. On the other hand, I've a 1/4" thick plate of 26C3 steel that some day will turn into a set of bench chisels.

[Christopher Wellington]

The washer at the connection point help keep the wood from mushrooming outward and eventually splitting. Which also depends a lot on how the ferrule is fitted.

I was going to mention this in my original post about fitting a Richter with a new handle. The tenon was sized for an interference fit with the ferrule. At assembly, I hammered the ferrule in place and then drove the handle over the tang.

I have a hard time imagining the wood ever mushrooming or splitting with a tight-fitting, substantial steel ferrule around it, but I put the leather washer in anyway. I don't see it as particularly beneficial or detrimental, to be honest.

[Edward Weber]

I thought the debate was regarding the leather washer between the chisel bolster and the bottom of the handle.

In the last 100 years chisels have not changed in a fundamental way. I don't think the addition of leather washers, whether on top or bottom of the handle, is of any significance.

The older chisels had forged bolsters, not machined. The leather washer evens out the rough surface and creates a more uniform interface between the bolster and handle.
Today, the bolster is machined as a perfectly flat surface. One would argue that the washer was needed more in the older tools than the newer ones.

They may be more prevalent now but not new by my standards.
50-100 years, vintage
100-300 years, antique
300+ years, artifact

Some mat find this helpful to the discussion
https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/627
https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/623

[Warren Mickley]

The older chisels had forged bolsters, not machined. The leather washer evens out the rough surface and creates a more uniform interface between the bolster and handle.
Today, the bolster is machined as a perfectly flat surface. One would argue that the washer was needed more in the older tools than the newer ones.

Most of my chisels are from the early 19th century. They are hand forged. None had leather washers when I got them; none have leather washers now. The bolsters are filed to true them up and there is no need for leather.

There are over 40 chisels in the Seaton Chest (1796). None have leather.

[Rafael Herrera]

Even Joel (the blog writer) hated using the leather washer for that mortise chisel. He has some thoughts about their inadequacy and I kind of agree with him.

There seems to be a notion that older tools were "crude" because they were hand forged. That's a fallacious idea. Skilled craftsmen or women strive to produce their work efficiently without wasting time and material, which is fair and honest towards their customers, they don't pay for what is not necessary. This was true in the past and it is true today. Over engineered or garishly finished tools may appeal to people with the cash to spare, but are not really better tools.


So, in the case of the bolster and handle, there's plenty of room to get a good fitting. Spending the time and effort to make everything perfect around the bolster was obviously seen as wasteful. It's also worth pointing out that oval bolster mortise chisels were sold without a handle, at least that's what I've read in some places and what I notice in the catalogs. It'd have been trivial for a woodworker to make one in their free time.

It's interesting that the Ray Isles mortise chisels sold at Joel's store don't have leather washers.

86685b_1200x.jpg

Lastly, this guy in YT is able to whip up a well fitted handle in less than half an hour without much fuss. Notice the use the hacksaw to fine tune the socket fit at the end, same as what was mentioned in Joel's blog post.

https://youtu.be/snU1sg-N2CI

[Derek Cohen]

I agree - no leather washer. When parts are fitted carefully for a perfect fit, there is no need to use a "spacer".

This is ever more evident when fitting a handle to a Japanese chisel. Not only does one need to fit the ferrule ...



... but the join between the ferrule and socket is not a given - you may get lucky and the fit is coplanar, but in most cases it requires that the high spots are filed down to create the flow, and then the shiny steel is blackened to remove all evidence.

Collection of orphan chisels by Kiyohisa chisels with different handles ...



Rebuilt to create a collection ...






Regards from Perth

Derek

[Edward Weber]

Even Joel (the blog writer) hated using the leather washer for that mortise chisel. He has some thoughts about their inadequacy and I kind of agree with him.

There seems to be a notion that older tools were "crude" because they were hand forged. That's a fallacious idea.

I'm not trying to argue, nor imply that old tools were bad or crude in some way, those are your words.
Many of the old tools came unhandeled and the bolster was not given any extra attention since the purchaser was going to "fit" their own handle how he wanted to. The bolsters were not filed to a perfectly flat surface with squared corners. A leather washer was often used, not always, to seal the connection, to avoid any gaps.

All I was saying is that a leather washer was used very far back as the link I posted points out. Your the one that said
"You won't see leather washers in older chisels. My skeptical side tells me they came up with them to hide an imperfect fit and then explained it away as an improvement"
You also said
"The washers seem to be a relatively recent innovation."

This is just not true, pleas argue with someone else

[Rafael Herrera]

You stated that older chisels would have needed washers for a proper fit more than modern ones. The implication was clear, yet browsing old catalogs reveals chisels were not sold that way. It's the modern ones, like these Richter chisels, that come fitted with the washers.

Within the context of the last 300 hundred or more years, which is the span of the western European/American woodworking tradition we practice, features added to a tool 60 years ago can be considered recent. That's just my opinion. Your time frames seem to be smaller and that's fine. My opinion on what's old or recent doesn't really matter. What's interesting to discuss is if these washers are any good.

Based on the old chisels (my concept of old) I've seen and used, they're not necessary and I already stated why I think they came about. Others may have a different opinion, that's fine, this is a forum, people exchange opinions, they will not always agree. If my opinions bother you, there's not much I can do about that.

[Carl Beckett]

I agree - no leather washer. When parts are fitted carefully for a perfect fit, there is no need to use a "spacer".

This is ever more evident when fitting a handle to a Japanese chisel. Not only does one need to fit the ferrule ...

... but the join between the ferrule and socket is not a given - you may get lucky and the fit is coplanar, but in most cases it requires that the high spots are filed down to create the flow, and then the shiny steel is blackened to remove all evidence.

Collection of orphan chisels by Kiyohisa chisels with different handles ...

Rebuilt to create a collection ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek, after some reflection and learning from this thread, I am going to try without the washer.

Additionally, I am not a fan of the cylindrical ferrule. This creates a step and I do sometimes hold the chisel around the area. Hence I was leaning towards fabricating a tapered ferrule as you show here (and many of my other chisels have), although I was planning to make this from brass since it might be easier machining for me. I like the continuous transition this would create.

[Carl Beckett]

Strike 1. Not concentric.

And I am not sure I like the transition from the ferrule to the handle, will mock one up that is a smooth transition (besides being concentric). I machined this from a plumbing fitting which worked pretty well.

No worries, trying a change in fabrication sequence to get it to line up. Then will decide what wood to use. Assuming they get finished at 'some' point in the future, the mere passing of time gets me closer...

20240114_143317.jpg20240114_143327.jpg

[Carl Beckett]

Next iteration went quickly, and came together nicely. (still need to cut off the tail...)

I can live with this. And may just leave these as cherry. Appreciate the inputs - I did not use the washer. A simple interference fit no glue. We will see if they fall apart in time.

Now to repeat 5 more times.

What should I use for a finish?



20240114_173201.jpg20240114_173151.jpg20240114_173157.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

What should I use for a finish?

It depends on what you like.

Shellac or lacquer are both good for a shiny smooth finish.

Mine are often left unfinished for some woods like ash or rosewood.

Others are rubbed on the lathe with my shop oil rag. It is mostly saturated with Howard Feed-N_Wax.

Howard Feed-N-Wax.jpg

Something similar to this could be made at home with 50-50 mix of mineral oil and bee's wax. (candle wax might also work) Melt the wax and pour in the oil, mix and let cool. It should make a soft wax easy to rub in. It may need a little turpentine or mineral spirits. Rub it on and then wipe it off with a dry rag.

If you have some furniture polish with wax in it that would likely also work.

jtk

[Edward Weber]

As Jim said, It depends on what you like.
Many simply leave handles bare, they will take on a patina over time due to use.
I like a penetrating oil of some kind, tung, hemp, etc.

[Rafael Herrera]

Raw linseed oil is also an option.

[Christopher Wellington]

I find that an unfinished or oil-finished handle becomes stained blotchy gray in short order from sharpening. The steel powder and slurry gets on my hands and then transfers to the handle. It's purely a cosmetic issue, but boy do they look ugly. Maybe I'm just messy with my sharpening.

I like a couple of coats of lacquer instead.