'24 Resolution: Learn how to close Rubio cans.

[Bryan Hall]

Alright, I have to admit I've been embarrassed about this for a while and have never asked but I've just got to get over it. I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to close a Rubio Monocoat can without it squirting oil out and at times, leaking oil all night long. No matter how clean I wipe the can down, no matter how gently I replace the lid, it seems as though a significant amount of internal pressure is created. Today I went out to my shop and found a small puddle that had pooled around the base of a can that had continued to spew oil overnight (this is probably the third time this has happened). I'm not only frustrated with the mess, but I'm just wildly confused as to how this is even possible. I've never had this issue with any other paint can or oil brand, so, if anyone can clue me in to what I am doing wrong I would really appreciate it.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I use the Stop Loss bags for the oil component part of Rubio and sidestep the can problem as well as the top layer of the extremely expensive finish skimming over from oxygen in the can, wasting it and chunking up the rest of the can. Would highly recommend them.

[Mark Gibney]

Bryan, I love Rubio, but their cans are poorly designed, especially for an expensive product. For part B, I have to cut the top of the can with a tin snips to get the last of it out.
Like Phillip I use Stop Loss bags to store part A. But it's very difficult to transfer it to the bag. The bags have a tiny throat and Rubio being thick (it drains very slowly from the funnel), I get air wanting to gush suddenly back out of the bag, spraying Rubio with it. Be warned!

[Bryan Hall]

Thanks gents, I've been convinced this was my issue for a while now but it sounds like I'm not the only one questioning those cans. For part B, I typically remove the cans plastic funnel and it allows me to get whats left, out. I haven't tried snips to confirm how much more I might be losing, but maybe I should give that a crack as well. I just placed an order for the stop loss bags. Do you guys typically re-use/re-fill them? Or are they most commonly single use and toss?

Greatly appreciate the help guys.

[Clint Baxter]

Thanks gents, I've been convinced this was my issue for a while now but it sounds like I'm not the only one questioning those cans. For part B, I typically remove the cans plastic funnel and it allows me to get whats left, out. I haven't tried snips to confirm how much more I might be losing, but maybe I should give that a crack as well. I just placed an order for the stop loss bags. Do you guys typically re-use/re-fill them? Or are they most commonly single use and toss?

Greatly appreciate the help guys.

I will reuse a bag as long as it’s for the same material. I don’t think you could effectively clean one of them out enough that I’d put a different material into it.

Did you get their funnel as well to fill the stop loss bag with? I’ve had good luck with those when I store Osmo in them.

Clint

[Jim Becker]

Rubio is no different than any other oil based finish...exposure to oxygen, etc., is not a good thing. Aside from only buying what's needed near term, careful storage like has been discussed is about the only way to preserve it. Those "stop loss" bags have always been interesting to me, but I've not tried them given I historically have not used much oil based finish. Now that I'm starting to use Rubio and similar a little bit, I may have to consider them.

[George Yetka]

I have far more trouble with the Osmo lid. Its oddly thin and soft and the brim of the can is always full of gummy/waxxy stuff. Always a mess getting in and out. I should have bought in a pint as a few drops goes a long way.

[John TenEyck]

You all are lucky. After I open a can of RM what's left goes bad before I need to use what's left. That plastic spout is the poorest designed thing they could have used. Even if it's spotless it doesn't seal well. I've put Bloxygen in the can before closing and still got no joy. Great stuff. Lousy packaging. Thanks for bringing this up, though, because I have need for some RM on an upcoming project or two, so it's time to buy some stop loss bags.

John

[Mark Gibney]

Bryan, you can clean the Stop Loss bags very effectively with acetone.
I've had some for years, mostly storing shop-made hard oil (linseed oil / polyurethane / thinner) and they clean up nicely.
I've replaced the little white caps a few times - they seem to crack easily.

[Bryan Hall]

Clint: I ordered an 8 pack of bags that comes with a small black funnel. I'd assume that will work well for filling the bags as long as the funnel isn't too small at the top to receive the rubio. I mostly use pure and the sheen so it sounds like that should work well for me.

George: That's funny, for me the Osmo cans were excellent to close. I will admit though, when I used osmo it did glaze over quite quickly and I had a lot of waste from that. Rubio hasn't filmed over as bad for me in the cans.

John: The plastic spout is absolutely terrible. Mine always freezes up on the part B stuff and is a bear to re-open.

Mark: Glad to hear they last long term. I assume I'll end up with a specific bag for pure, one for sheen, and then a few other bags for one off colors I end up stuck with but I've started to simply give the leftovers to my clients if it's not a common color.

[John TenEyck]

Clint: I ordered an 8 pack of bags that comes with a small black funnel. I'd assume that will work well for filling the bags as long as the funnel isn't too small at the top to receive the rubio. I mostly use pure and the sheen so it sounds like that should work well for me.

George: That's funny, for me the Osmo cans were excellent to close. I will admit though, when I used osmo it did glaze over quite quickly and I had a lot of waste from that. Rubio hasn't filmed over as bad for me in the cans.

John: The plastic spout is absolutely terrible. Mine always freezes up on the part B stuff and is a bear to re-open.

Mark: Glad to hear they last long term. I assume I'll end up with a specific bag for pure, one for sheen, and then a few other bags for one off colors I end up stuck with but I've started to simply give the leftovers to my clients if it's not a common color.

Bryan, what's "sheen".

John

[Jim Becker]

Bryan, what's "sheen".

John

Rubio just came out with a new product that has more of a sheen than the regular 2C's matt look.

[Bryan Hall]

Rubio just came out with a new product that has more of a sheen than the regular 2C's matt look.

Yep, it's called Sheen Plus. Originally you'd apply 2c oil for matte, then add maintenance oil to give it a touch of sheen and you'd be maxed out. Now you can skip the maintenance oil and go to the sheen plus which is advertised as a satin finish. Stiffly priced at $50 more per 1.3l order over the cost of the pure. If you are looking for higher levels of sheen I still think other options are better, but I like that this is easy for me to hand off to clients with little instruction on how to use.

[Jim Becker]

Some folks have been able to get a little more sheen with a second application of 2C buffed out after the first cures for a day or three. It's helpful to have a really good material surface for that to happen, too. With the Sheen Plus being new, I haven't seen the results from that and I only recently started to play with Rubio myself.

[Bryan Hall]

Some folks have been able to get a little more sheen with a second application of 2C buffed out after the first cures for a day or three. It's helpful to have a really good material surface for that to happen, too. With the Sheen Plus being new, I haven't seen the results from that and I only recently started to play with Rubio myself.

I probably have a sample board laying around somewhere but to cut to the chase, the sheen plus is easily the best result for sheen that I've gotten on walnut and white oak. It makes the raw 2c finish look a little amateur IMO. I just applied it to some curly maple though, and was not impressed.