Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Dining room carver chairs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497

    Dining room carver chairs

    The design of the chair needs to compliment the bentwood chairs we have, which are original and early 1900s. The table is to be replaced with a longer, wider one.





    This table is over 200 years old, and has great sentimental value. It is built of Yellow Wood (top) and Stinkwood (legs). We bought this after getting married. Now, 42 years later, Lynndy wants a larger table.

    The plan is a table with a top and skirts in Rock Maple and round, parallel legs in Jarrah - very Mid Century modern. The aim is to blend two modern Mid Century carvers in Rock Maple with the bentwood chairs. Consequently, a lighter look for the carvers is needed.

    Here is the design.

    The legs are curved and round, with 25mm top and bottom, and 32mm around the seat area to accommodate the joinery. The 35mm thick seat will be attached with mortice-and-tenons (not sure yet whether integral or loose tenons). These will be 25x10mm.

    The curve in the legs is a desired feature to soften the look and also link with the bentwood chairs. The complication, in shaping, is that there is a taper and a curve.

    The height of the top section has been reduced significantly. The design ...



    Then there are finer details being worked out, such as the curve at the rear of the backrest and seat to link with the roundness of the bentwood chairs. The transition from the legs to the arm rest is borrowed from Hans Wegner and used when I build his The Chair.

    Details of importance: the seat angled at 5-degrees off horizontal, and the backrest is 95-degrees to the seat. The centre of the seat is the same height as the benchwood chairs.

    The plan shape for the arm- and back rest will come later.

    Thoughts?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek






  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,329
    So you're building only two of the new chairs! I'd been thinking you'd be building a full set -- eight or so. Considering all the hand work necessary, two is much more manageable.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    Jamie, another 6 will come in the not-so-distant future, for my son. As a result, I am looking for a way to ease the build process. Two now is fun, 8 at one go is not

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,786
    I think it will look great Derek. Since you have already made a similar almost the same Hans Wegner chair you don’t need to mock up the design? For comfort
    I like the stinkwood table legs I would save them just for a pattern at the very least.
    I would be careful about adding maple to the tables apron. That would be a powerful design element I would be concerned it will complete with the top. A table should have a greatest looking top.
    Having chairs and tables that look great together it just doesn’t get any better.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    Thanks Andrew

    The table design will have a shallow apron in Rock Maple, and as a result it will complement and not compete with the Rock Maple top. The Jarrah legs will be 90mm diameter cylinders. An easy build compared with the chairs.

    These chairs are actually quite different to the Wegner The Chair. There is enough here that I needed to work out construction details. More later.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 12-30-2023 at 11:17 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,786
    Oops my apologies I thought the table top was going to be Jarrah.
    A Rock maple top sound fantastic
    Good Luck always
    Aj

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,429
    I do mostly one-offs so there's a lot of latitude and I can grab a hand tool to do the simple things over setting up a machine but if I were to do 6 or 8 of something, I'd spend the time making templates and then just bang out the individual parts, then match pieces for grain, etc.

    Also, I'm popping the popcorn - can't wait to see your progress. Good luck and best.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,781
    The very wide aprons on the old table have, no doubt, contributed to its durability over the many years. Surely it has some stories to tell. A narrow apron makes a table easier to sit at but presents a joinery challenge. This is one of my favorite reasons to go into the shop.

    Here is my best solution so far.

    Joinery 3.jpg

    It is a buried box joint. And the stretchers are narrower across the span. This joint should withstand any abuse.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,946
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    The very wide aprons on the old table have, no doubt, contributed to its durability over the many years. Surely it has some stories to tell. A narrow apron makes a table easier to sit at but presents a joinery challenge. This is one of my favorite reasons to go into the shop.

    Here is my best solution so far.

    Joinery 3.jpg

    It is a buried box joint. And the stretchers are narrower across the span. This joint should withstand any abuse.
    Making joinery like that would require a whole lot of adult beverages to recover from the task!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    My plan for the apron of the table is rather a lot simpler.

    I want aprons about 3" deep. These will be morticed into the 90mm diameter legs. To strengthen the apron, it will be built as a "T-beam" (to prevent flex), but in this case an "L-beam", where there is a horizontal section (rail) attached to the inside of the apron where it meets the table top. The rail will be multi-dominoed into the apron. The rail doubles as a place to screw down the table top.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    The very wide aprons on the old table have, no doubt, contributed to its durability over the many years. Surely it has some stories to tell. A narrow apron makes a table easier to sit at but presents a joinery challenge. This is one of my favorite reasons to go into the shop.

    Here is my best solution so far.

    Joinery 3.jpg

    It is a buried box joint. And the stretchers are narrower across the span. This joint should withstand any abuse.
    Tom, those are great joints, I've used them many times.
    They work really well for smaller scale joinery as well. Items where the tenon is say only 1/4" thick and the mortise isn't very deep. You are effectively lengthening your tenon.
    They can also be as simple as a half lap, not a full blown box joint, if you need/want to keep things simpler.
    Criss-Cross-Corner-Joint.jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •