Waxing jointer tables?

[Yuri Strukov]

Hello,

Would it be a good idea to coat the polished cast iron jointer tables (and table saw surface) with wax or oil to prevent rust? This is what the manual suggests. If yes, is it assumed that every time before use the wax/oil have to be completely removed? I thought that any small amount of wax or oil on wood is going to interfere with gluing (and finishing later).

Would appreciate any comment or suggestion! Thank you!
Happy New Year and Best wishes,
ys

[Mel Fulks]

Hello,

Would it be a good idea to coat the polished cast iron jointer tables (and table saw surface) with wax or oil to prevent rust? This is what the manual suggests. If yes, is it assumed that every time before use the wax/oil have to be completely removed? I thought that any small amount of wax or oil on wood is going to interfere with gluing (and finishing later).

Would appreciate any comment or suggestion! Thank you!
Happy New Year and Best wishes,
ys

Yes it’s a good idea , but it has to be done right ! When you are finished jointing edges that will be glued use denatured alcohol or
something else to clean the wood surfaces that will be glued as waxes and sprays are often applied and , and needed. But have no place on a surface
that will be glued.

[John Kananis]

Wax everything, literally everything from the bottom of your hand planes, to jointer beds to anything that's cast iron or that wood moves over (paraffin is what my go to is). I've never had to clean up my stock before applying glue.

[Mel Fulks]

John ,that is interesting and I’m sure some will try it. I worked for a family run company that had been in business a long time and they
did not like, or tolerate, wax. But they had 3 jointers and at least two of them were beasts and made of that mechanite stuff that is
always slick , except when coated with pitch !

[andy bessette]

I prefer to use Bostik TopCote or GlideCote on machine surfaces.

[Kevin Jenness]

I use a thin coat of paste wax, let it dry a few minutes and buff it out with a rag. Never had a problem with glue joints. Whatever amount may get transferred to the wood is too miniscule to be a problem.

[Jim Becker]

Wax is certainly something that many folks use to keep their cast iron surfaces in good condition. Some of us use "for purpose" products, like Boshield T9 as an alternative. "What" you use is less important than doing the regular maintenance necessary to keep things clean, rust free and protected from moisture.

[Joel Gelman]

This has been discussed on other forums. I have used a number of things over the years. I was advised more recently to use Rensaissance wax and use a Festool sander with the Green Vlies with he application process. Wonderful results.

I apply, buff, wipe off with a paper towel (towel is black and the machine is nicer looking. Repeat the process. I never get quite clear paper towels and do not seek that, but in the end, with really not too much effort, I get a nice looking machine with a very smooth very low friction surface (especially helpful with planers) and without chemical issues.

[John Kananis]

Hey Mel, I've found that a lot of our own methodology is personal bias. That's why if you ask ten competent woodworkers the best way to cut a tenon, you'll get fourteen different answers. If you think something can be a problem, you'll develop a methodology to avoid it imho.

John ,that is interesting and I’m sure some will try it. I worked for a family run company that had been in business a long time and they
did not like, or tolerate, wax. But they had 3 jointers and at least two of them were beasts and made of that mechanite stuff that is
always slick , except when coated with pitch !

[Andrew Hughes]

I keep a coat of paste wax on my jointer tables it dried hard and keep the tables from rusting. My shop isn’t insulated I’ve found it necessary. I also keep a coat of shellac on all the handles,knobs and wheels it seems to last longer then wax.
Good Luck

[mike stenson]

Wax helps keep the friction low, but for rust I just gave up and make dust covers. It's the dust that's the problem. The shellac is a great idea for the handles, hardware, etc. Thanks!

[Larry Edgerton]

I prefer to use Bostik TopCote or GlideCote on machine surfaces.

Andy, I have been using B'laster dry lube with with Teflon for a few years now. Same as Bostic but 1/3 the cost. Silicone free. There is another B'laster product like it that has silicone, avoid that.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-TD...005120036&th=1

[Robyn Horton]

I use Butchers Bowling Alley wax and Felder Silber-Gleit on Jointer and Planer tables, Table saw, Band saw. The Silber-Gleit is super slick after a few applications. Never use an automotive wax that has silicone on your cast iron where wood is going to be in contact or you will have fish eye problems during the painting process.

[Brian W Evans]

Paste wax for me: apply, wait until it gets cloudy, buff. I use a random orbit buffer but hand buffing works just as well.

I would hate to have to push a wide board through my jointer without waxing the tables first. A slick surface makes a huge difference. Same with the table and band saws.

No problems with glue-ups here, either. Just avoid silicone.

[andy bessette]

Larry--thanks for the tip.