Odorless epoxy for peppermills

[Brian Brown]

I rarely make pepper mills, but I did make one for my brother for Christmas. Because I don't make many of them, I don't have the special tool to cut a groove for the crush grind tabs to lock in. I have to use epoxy. When I brought the finished mill in for the wife to wrap, she started gagging, and sent me back to the shop to let the mill air out. I have no sense of smell, but she said it stunk to the point she wouldn't have it in the house. My ego took a hit at her critique. I aired it out for a few days, and a lot of the odor went away, but she still said it stunk. So my question is, is there an epoxy that does not have such an offensive odor? The label fell off of the package I have, but it was either Devcon, or JB weld 2 part epoxy in a dual syringe. If I make more pepper mills I would like the epoxy to not overtake the the mill, or taint the flavor of the pepper or salt. It is easy enough to keep the epoxy where it will not come in contact with the glue. Any suggestions on epoxy?

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I’ve used epoxy for many years (boat building and turning) and haven’t experienced a particularly offensive smell. I do use West System epoxies, but even on those occasions when using the fast cure stuff in a syringe like JB Weld, the smell has barely been noticeable, and when fully cured not really a problem.

You didn’t mention the wood species, I’ve had some cottonwood that would drive me out of the shop…could there be another source?

I re-ground an old 1/2” scraper to cut the groove. Only took a few minutes and used a scraper that had been unused for years. I found that easier and quicker than gluing them in, at least with the crush grind mechanism I’ve been using.

[Mark Wedel]

I've used some devcon epoxy for some bowls I've made - it certainly has a strong odor before it is set, but once it has set, I've not noticed any odor from it (though I did not put it right up to my nose to smell). But the one I've used comes in 2 separate bottles one has to mix, but I don't know if that is really any different than the 2 syringe ones - the later might just be the same thing in an easier to use package.

A different question might be what finish you used (in addition to what Jeffrey asked about what wood species) - could the finish itself be what is producing the odor? Or maybe some interaction between the epoxy, wood, and finish?

[John King]

Replace the epoxy with E6000 adhesive. Coat the peppercorn chamber with Shellac. You're good to go. - John

PS - Checkout Turning Salt & Pepper Shakers And Mills​ by Chris West. All you will ever need to know about making pepper mills. - J

[Bill Howatt]

It could well be the finish which will give off an odor until cured - allow 3 or more weeks. The epoxy may take more time than just it's day or two time usually specified. My guess is to blame the finish but it's a guess.
I was told never to put any finish inside the mill where the peppercorns are stored except for possibly shellac.
Your wife may be like mine, a very sensitive nose - it seems she can detect me just reading the labels of finishes and 5 minute epoxy really annoys her.

[Richard Coers]

Replace the epoxy with E6000 adhesive. Coat the peppercorn chamber with Shellac. You're good to go. - John

PS - Checkout Turning Salt & Pepper Shakers And Mills​ by Chris West. All you will ever need to know about making pepper mills. - J

E6000 is like silicone, does it turn and sand cleanly?

[Richard Coers]

It could well be the finish which will give off an odor until cured - allow 3 or more weeks. The epoxy may take more time than just it's day or two time usually specified. My guess is to blame the finish but it's a guess.
I was told never to put any finish inside the mill where the peppercorns are stored except for possibly shellac.
Your wife may be like mine, a very sensitive nose - it seems she can detect me just reading the labels of finishes and 5 minute epoxy really annoys her.

Salt and pepper will absorb smell and change the teste of the food.

[John King]

Salt and pepper will absorb smell and change the teste of the food.

That's why you should apply shellac to the peppercorn chamber. Food safe and seals wood from contact with peppercorns. - John

[John King]

E6000 is like silicone, does it turn and sand cleanly?

E6000 not used in area where turning or sanding is required. Best practice is to cut grooves in mill body and cap. Press fit Crushgrind@ mechanisms. No adhesive required.

[John King]

When properly installed, the CrushGrind@ mechanism requires no epoxy or similar adhesive. Here’s the deal.

Most, but not all, instructions for making CrushGrind@ mills provided by US suppliers specify 1) a 1⁹/₁₆” diameter hole in the mill body for the grinding mechanism, 2) removal of the spring clips from the grinding mechanism and 3) use of epoxy (or similar) to secure the grinding mechanism in the mill body. These same instructions specify 1) a 15/16” diameter hole in the mill cap for the stopper, 2) removal of the spring clips from the stopper and 3) use of epoxy (or similar) to secure the stopper in the mill cap. One can make a very nice pepper/salt/spice mill using these instructions. But there is a better way! It’s the no epoxy-required way.

The manufacturer’s recommendation for the diameter of the hole in the mill body for the CrushGrind@ mechanism is 38mm (1.496”). I am good with calling that 1½” (1.500”). The manufacturer’s recommendation for the diameter of the hole in the mill cap for the stopper is 22mm (0.866”). I am good with calling that 7/8” (0.875”).

No epoxy (or similar) is required to secure the grinding mechanism in the mill body and the stopper in the mill cap if 1) the CrushGrind@ manufacture’s recommendations for the mill body and mill cap hole diameters are used and 2) a groove is cut in the mill body and the mill cap to accept the spring clips on the grinding mechanism and stopper.

Sorby makes a groove cutting tool for CrushGrind@ mechanisms. It's available on Amazon at https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Sorby-895CGH-Crush-Grind/dp/B00JMJKML2. It’s a must-have tool if one is going to install the CrushGrind@ mechanism in pepper/salt/spice mills using the spring clips and no epoxy.

With the grinding mechanism and stopper press fit into the mill body and cap, respectively, and the spring clips lock into the mill body and cap grooves, epoxy is not required for a secure fit.

An excellent set of instructions for making a pepper/salt/spice mill using the CrushGrind@ mechanism can be found in Turning Salt & Pepper Shakers and Mills by Chris West, “Drilling and Fitting a CrushGrind@ Mechanism,” p 132.

In my opinion, the CrushGrind@ mechanism is far superior to the stainless steel grinding mechanisms. It can be used to grind pepper, salt and spices. The grind can be adjusted from coarse to very fine. It’s made of non-corrosive ceramic. There is a 25-year guarantee on the ceramic parts inside the CrushGrind@ mechanism.​ - John

PS - The Sorby groove cutting tool is notched to register the correct depth of the groove in the mill body. It is also etched for the correct depth of the groove in the mill cap. - J

[andy bessette]

If epoxy is required on wooden products that come into contact with food, use WEST Epoxy G-Flex 650.

[Walter Mooney]

E6000 is like silicone, does it turn and sand cleanly?

Richard, while I use E6000 extensively, for all kinds of glueings, I’ve never tried to turn it or sand it, but I’m gonna say probably not. It is so flexible when cured that I doubt it can be sanded. I’m sure it could be cut, with a nice sharp tool, like most other things. IN my uses, really don’t think it’s much like silicone, but………

[Brian Brown]

Thank you everyone for your responses, especially Andy, John, & Jeffery. I'm sure At the very least I can work on a less stinky epoxy. I'm sure I can find an old tool to re-purpose to make the groove. It would be nice to not use glue at all.