Building a New Roubo - Split Top v Standard

[JohnM Martin]

Building a new Roubo workbench and was looking for some suggestions. My current bench is an 8ft long split top Roubo. I've moved and my current bench is too long for my new shop space so I'm rebuilding and hoping to learn from the first bench.



Split Top vs Anarchist Workbench
I'm struggling with whether or not to build a split top again or go with a solid top like the Anarchist Workbench. I do use the gap stop as a planing stop occasionally, but that is about it. In practice, I find that tools in the gap stop are more in the way than they are useful. Additionally, keeping two slabs coplanar has been a bit of a challenge as they move/change independently. This is probably my fault as I used various species of hardwood (whatever I could find at the time) from different sources to cobble together a top. I haven't found any need to use the gap as a place for clamps. I use round dog holes and use holdfasts and the veritas Hold Downs for clamping to the bench. For those that have worked on both a single slab and split top. What did you prefer?



Vise Hardware
First bench has Benchcrafted leg vise but no tail vise. The new bench will have a leg vise and a tail vise. I know Benchcrafted hardware works really well, but it is also quite expensive. Are there other options these days?

[Tony Wilkins]

Sounds from reading your question you’re leaning toward a single slab? I think in your case I’d go that way. The tools in my middle aren’t in the way - until they are

[Derek Cohen]

Keep it simple. Single piece top. Easier to use. Easier to maintain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Different strokes for different folks. For me having a tool well to keep tools out of the way instead being on the bench seems like a good idea. Of course, it has to be deep enough and wide enough to keep tools below the surface. Also it is nice to have a way to lay a plank on top of the well to make a continuous, flat work surface.

In your case John, it sounds like you have such a space and do not find it useful.

So why is there any question?

jtk

[Eric Brown]

My preference would be solid top. For a vice another option would be a Emmert or similar pattern makers vise. It really depends on what type of work you wish to do. I would not trade my Tucker vise for anything.
It will stay with me until I quit working as a hobby.

[Christopher Charles]

I too built a split top Roubo, adapted from the BC plan. Had a filler in the gap for more than a year and then glued it all together about 8 years ago. No regrets at all (even when I had to move it to a new shop).

The BC wagon vise is excellent, but I also do a good bit with smaller pieces and would likely put in the LN tail vise if building today as a traditional tail vise design has more clamping options.

[Jimmy Harris]

I'm not a pro, so for me space is more precious than time. So I've never had a tray on my bench and likely never will. Plus, it gets too humid in my shop in the summer to leave steel tools out. That, and as you noted, keeping the two surfaces aligned is an extra headache that I'm glad to avoid. Even if you wanted a tray, I would just add it to the back of a single top. Unless you regularly work on both sides of your bench, I don't see an advantage to a split top.

As for vise hardware, I'd just go with whatever your budget allows. A more precisely machined vise screw generally buys you a smoother experience, and sometimes a faster one. Plus, usually a lot less racking. But it won't buy you more holding power (unless you have a cheap quick release that won't stay engaged). Sometimes you can get more features or a nicer look for your money, but even a cheap screw vise, properly installed, will hold wood firmly. And you can use shims to fix any racking problems, that even expensive vises can have. I'm not saying you won't appreciate a Benchcrafted vise, but a cheap vise won't compromise the quality of your work.

I've always gotten the cheap vise hardware (Yost level) and never regretted it. I'm not saying I don't wish I had a Benchcrafted or Hovarter vise instead, but I'm not losing any sleep over my decisions.

[JohnM Martin]

Sounds from reading your question you’re leaning toward a single slab? I think in your case I’d go that way. The tools in my middle aren’t in the way - until they are

Yeah, I'm definitely leaning towards that. Mostly because keeping two slabs coplanar has been challenging over time.

[Tom Bain]

I am a little surprised about the coplanar issues. Do folks think that is a major concern with tops made from kiln-dried hardwood in a conditioned space? I would have thought if keeping the two halves coplanar was problematic we wouldn't see so many split-tops being built. As someone with a new workbench build in the very near future, inquiring minds want to know!

[Robert Hazelwood]

I built a split top from doug fir construction lumber about 7 years ago. The top as a whole has been very stable, no issues with them not being coplanar. The biggest advantage in use is that I can use the gap in the middle for clamping. I have only used it as a tool holder a few times. Things have dropped through the gap into a morass of shavings more than few times.

There are two other advantages to the split top - if you ever need to move the bench, much easier to move half of the top than the whole thing. Although mine is just light enough that I did not take it apart the two times I've moved since building it. But if your top is 6" thick maple or something like that, this can be a big deal.

The other advantage is during building. If you have a thickness planer you can run each slab through, which will save a lot of planing.

[Jimmy Harris]

I am a little surprised about the coplanar issues. Do folks think that is a major concern with tops made from kiln-dried hardwood in a conditioned space? I would have thought if keeping the two halves coplanar was problematic we wouldn't see so many split-tops being built. As someone with a new workbench build in the very near future, inquiring minds want to know!

If you can keep it in a stable environment, then you're right. It's probably fine. But not everyone has an airconditioned and heated shop. And even among those that do, not everyone lives in a region where you can expect minimal changes in seasonal humidity, even indoors. I my neck of the woods, we get crazy humid in the summer months and extremely dry in the winter. Much more so than most of the other regions of the US that I've lived in in the past.

So it CAN be a problem. Though that doesn't mean it WILL be a problem.

[Jim Koepke]

Sometimes you can get more features or a nicer look for your money, but even a cheap screw vise, properly installed, will hold wood firmly. And you can use shims to fix any racking

Hi Jimmy, if I haven't said it before, welcome to the Creek.

This was posted a little over a decade before you became a member > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?183743 < It is a stack of 4 spacers, 1/8", 1/4", 1/2" & 1" made so they can be nested together in any combination from 1/8" to 1-7/8" to counter racking. Larger spacers can be used with it for larger spans.

It not only blocks the vise chop from racking, it can be used to hold thin work without causing it to bow.

This and many other images included in posts all over SMC and especially in the Neanderthal wisdom and FAQs is definitely worth the $6 a year contribution.

Neanderthal wisdom and FAQs > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805

jtk

[Tom Bussey]

I have a split top with a tool well in it. The top is 4 inch thick hickory. My shop is neither air conditioned or heated. It is 24 degrees in there at the present. I have not had any problems with it being coplanar in the 6 years since I made it. The most expensive vise hardware was a $89 tail vise hardware. Now it is $118. The shoulder vise hardware costs $46.90 today and there are two shoulder vise and wagon vise The leg vise is antique and cost me $2 at an auction. The cris cross,, like the original one from way back it time is made out of hickory and works fine. DSC03417.JPG

Split tops are easier to deal with.

[Tom Bain]

Good to hear that keeping the split-top coplanar has not been an issue for many. In Tom’s design he appears to have end caps on both ends and I’m wondering how much the end caps help/contribute to keeping the two halves coplanar, effectively acting like a breadboard end? In the “standard” benchcrafted plans only one half (the one with the tail vise) has an end-cap, which is needed for attaching the vise.

[Tom Bussey]

I also have a tool well. It slides back and forth to help in cleaning it out and for clamping It can come completely out so it really aids in clamping some times. I takes 4 men just to carry the top.

Tom