Alternative to Lenox Classic

[John TenEyck]

John, the classic was in fact 3 tpi at 3/4". It's definitely available - just checked.

This is what I see on Lennox's website. Are you sure you're using the Classic?

John

[Andrew Hughes]

Isn’t that a blade for cutting metal.
If so even a 3tpi will have a small gullet.

[John Kananis]

Here's the link. Yes, I'm positive.
https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/...d-saw-blades-2

This is what I see on Lennox's website. Are you sure you're using the Classic?

John

Gullet is plenty large. Great blade.

Isn’t that a blade for cutting metal.
If so even a 3tpi will have a small gullet.

[Stephen Bandirola]

From what I was told (and can tell from looking at it) the Classic with the Hook teeth is basically a wider Diemaster.

[John TenEyck]

Isn’t that a blade for cutting metal.
If so even a 3tpi will have a small gullet.

Yes, but so is the Tri-Master which some folks choose for cutting wood, too.

John

[John TenEyck]

That tpi is not listed on Lennox's website. Very strange. A 0.035" thick blade isn't a great choice for most 14" saws. The wheels are small and most don't have the tension capability for something that wide and thick. Glad that it works well for you, though.

John

[John Kananis]

The two bands do look similar. Tooth geometry and set look slightly different (might just be subjective on my part). Surprisingly, both bands required the same tension, which would be what you'd expect for a 3/4 blade but much more than you'd think to put on a half inch blade.

Having used the Diemaster 2 a bit more, my vote is for the classic. Cut is both more efficient and smoother. I ordered one just to try it out a while back and now I'm glad I did. Going to order another. I understand the longevity issues on 14 inch wheels, I'm ok with that as long as I can tension properly.

[Andrew Hughes]

Yes, but so is the Tri-Master which some folks choose for cutting wood, too.

John

Thats a good point. I wonder if the whole Lennox classic blade is m42. I’m thinking a blade for woodworking only need to have tips in carbide or hard cobalt. Sharp big gullets get through a tall resaw faster that’s better goal rather then blade life.
Heat build up inside the wood is what I believe causes some bowing not just wood tension.
I have no scientific proof only my personal experience.
Good Luck

[John Kananis]

Heat does cause the bowing, especially when the stock is pushed through too quickly allowing the dust to be trapped in the sides of the blade instead of allowing the gullets to pull it down and through. Imho.

[Andrew Hughes]

Heat does cause the bowing, especially when the stock is pushed through too quickly allowing the dust to be trapped in the sides of the blade instead of allowing the gullets to pull it down and through. Imho.

Thats true pushing a blade faster then it can cut causes all kinds of trouble. I do remember looking at that blade or something similar. For my saw it would set me back 100$. That’s half way to a carbide tipped. I get cheap carbon steel blades from my saw service that last pretty good. Cost 27$ a woodmaster ct 178$.

[John Kananis]

That sounds like a great deal. And yeah makes no sense for you I suppose.

Thats true pushing a blade faster then it can cut causes all kinds of trouble. I do remember looking at that blade or something similar. For my saw it would set me back 100$. That’s half way to a carbide tipped. I get cheap carbon steel blades from my saw service that last pretty good. Cost 27$ a woodmaster ct 178$.