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Thread: How to setup a jointer on questionable concrete?

  1. #1
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    How to setup a jointer on questionable concrete?

    What are good methods for setting up a jointer? Where I've placed my jointer works well for shop flow, and up until yesterday it used to be about 1ft over such that one pedestal was over the joint of concrete. It seemed to slowly shift/settle because every several months I've had to realign the beds. So I moved it to where it is in these photos, but then it had such wobble due to non-flat concrete, I had to shim it. I'm wondering what options I have to stabilize it, or am I chasing a ghost due to the movement of concrete? Where is now, should it be ok?

    I'm seeing the benefits of the 3-legged Porter machines.

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    JonathanJungDesign.com

  2. #2
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    You can always buy floor leveling compound at the box store.

  3. #3
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    Is the concrete moving or are the wood shims absorbing moisture from the concrete and changing form? Personally I would use composite/metal shims for starters and reassess if you see a problem again.
    Last edited by Michael Burnside; 12-13-2023 at 12:26 PM. Reason: fixed spelling

  4. #4
    Metal shims , not wood, Maybe some epoxy to make sure they don’t vibrate out . Seen old info saying oil bath machines should be level.

  5. #5
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    I'm with Mel. Metal shims. But...those old machines were also commonly bolted down, so drill the floor ant put in some anchors to insure that the machine cannot move from use or vibration.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    Rubber pads.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I'm with Mel. Metal shims. But...those old machines were also commonly bolted down, so drill the floor ant put in some anchors to insure that the machine cannot move from use or vibration.
    Composite shims are rated at 10k+ LBS and I think would be fine. That said, bolting down is a very good idea. You make a good point about vibration.

  8. #8
    What about the heavy duty, threaded machine leveling feet you can get from places like McMaster Carr?

    I have the same jointer (12” / 166BD) and have dealt with this to some degree but am currently using composite shims on top of concrete slab. Never really moved the machine out of its current location since it arrived.

    If you care to go down a huge rabbit hole, spend a bit of time on OWWM.org reading the various theories and musings of different folks around the Oliver 166 base design and how “easy” it is to get the base slightly twisted due to an uneven floor and how that can affect everything above in pesky ways. I have not had to go to extreme lengths to plane/level out my jointer base and am thankful, but I can see how it would compound and make bed adjustments tricky and unreliable if the base were somehow twisted.
    Still waters run deep.

  9. #9
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    I leveled my 166 and used a machinist level to remove twist out of the sashes the tables sit on.
    It’s written in the manual.
    Fortunately my machine came with the leveling bolts. My concrete slab has the roots from a live oak tree underneath so I have a very wonky shop floor.
    Something I found with my 166 is the out feed table had a twist. The inclines are not able to completely able to take it out so had to shim part of the incline. I noticed the weight of the fence would tilt and move the plane of the outfeed enough to cause edging problems.
    Following Oliver’s set procedures for setting up really helped with vibration too.
    The leveling bolts look like this.
    Good Luck
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    Aj

  10. #10
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    Andrew, that's very helpful. The hole's in mine aren't threaded, are yours? Any idea what I could use, short of tapping them?

    The issue I'm having is unrelated to vibration or movement of the jointer. My question is about settling of concrete, ease of leveling the jointer, and keeping it level.

    The wood shims were just added yesterday in a quick effort to get the machine running.
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  11. #11
    Patrick that used to be here did some ubber good restorations. He had high quality levelling feet. Ive had them on one machine before but height enters into it. I have a 20 inch jointer set in place but the floor in that room is horrible to match other machines and more so cause of my set up the jointer has had to come up too high to be comfortable to use so ill just put some ply down and raise me up and be better than being on concrete. I likely have a photo of the feet patrick used and each machine will be different we all need a comfortable working height and part depends on our height.

  12. #12
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    Buy two sheets pf stall mat at tractor supply. Shim underneath and use the 3/4" , 100lb., to reduce the vibration. and level out the weight footprint on the floor.
    You probably won't need the shims, depending om the weight of that jointer. I use these underneath my car lift, on uneven concrete surfaces, and it works for up to 5000lbs.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan Jung View Post
    Andrew, that's very helpful. The hole's in mine aren't threaded, are yours? Any idea what I could use, short of tapping them?

    The issue I'm having is unrelated to vibration or movement of the jointer. My question is about settling of concrete, ease of leveling the jointer, and keeping it level.

    The wood shims were just added yesterday in a quick effort to get the machine running.
    The holes are threaded in my machine.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  14. #14
    I have an old fay and eagan jointer. Every few months it needs tweaking, which I attribute to dropping heavy s--t on the infeed. Get some rubber pads like Marc Hennebury says - he is an expert, or just fool with your shims every so often. expecting to set your jointer up and be done is a little like marking your guitar tuners where they are in tune.

  15. #15
    I don't know if I'd say it's a given that you should be having to fuss with jointer adjustments on a semi regular schedule, particularly on that model.

    I spent a long afternoon ~5 years ago really dialing my 166 in after moving it into my shop and have not had to touch it in that way since. That has included jointing lots of heavy wood over that time (think timber frame components.)

    Now if the concrete is actually shifting over the seasons (and that is generally not something you can control very well...) then that changes things and is where a setup like the heavy duty leveling feet and a machinist level come into play and start to pay for themselves. Just my opinion, of course.
    Still waters run deep.

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