Trestle table base help

[Tony Wilkins]

So the table top is about done*. Now I’m looking at the trestle base for it. I was planning on doing the one Chris Schwarz did in PopWood a while back (Feb 2013). In looking at the plans, he bases it on using 2x4 pine. Basically he thickness the pine to 1 1/4” and sandwiches two pieces to crest the mortises. So the bases end up becoming 2.5” thick. I’m trying to translate using the walnut lumber I have to purpose. I have both 8/4 skip planed and 4/4 rough (left over from top) that I can use (or get more locally). The 4/4 is closer to 5/4 or maybe even some 6/4 but rough.

My thoughts are I can either sandwich the 4/4 like he does or I can do traditional mortises in the 8/4. Thoughts? I’m even open to doing something different. (Would love to do a hayrake but don’t have the skill)

*after working on it a long time and working through a difficult time planing the last glue joint. It has ended up at 7’ by 37”.

[Jim Koepke]

My thoughts are I can either sandwich the 4/4 like he does or I can do traditional mortises in the 8/4. Thoughts?

My thought is to use the 8/4. The appearance will be slightly better, the work will likely be a lot less.

jtk

[Warren Mickley]

I would use the 8/4 stock and cut the mortises in the solid. Leave the stock just as thick as you can, even if it is an odd number like 1 25/32 or something. I would make the uprights quite a bit wider than what he shows and maybe have two tenons at each end: much sturdier.

This is much more of a hand tool approach. You certainly don't want to joint the faces of two boards and glue to increase thickness.to increase thickness.

[Edward Weber]

I would think that 2 pieces laminated together are stronger than one solid timber in this orientation. The only benefit to using the single timber is, as Jim mentions, the appearance.

I've built plenty of 2x4 workbenches with the method the OP describes, never an issue

Don't stress about what the actual dimensions are, just use the method that looks best, either method is fine for a table truss.
2x4 workbench.jpgwb6.jpg
Made from home center lumber, still in use today, solid as a rock.
I used wedged tenons, which work well for this style. You might want something different for a dining table aesthetics.
Hope this helps

[Tony Wilkins]

Don’t know why I was thinking this, but kept wondering if the 8/4 would look thick enough. Seeing some other examples, I’m guessing it would be fine. What thickness would y’all suggest the mortise + tenon be done.

[Tony Wilkins]

The largest mortise chisel I have is 5/16th. Or I can do the drill method (if I have to).

[Jim Koepke]

Don’t know why I was thinking this, but kept wondering if the 8/4 would look thick enough. Seeing some other examples, I’m guessing it would be fine. What thickness would y’all suggest the mortise + tenon be done.

That would depend on a few factors. What size are your stretchers going to be?

It isn't likely you will have stretchers as wide as the legs so the 1/3 rule doesn't apply.

Are you planing on using tusk or draw bore tenons?

You would likely want at least a 1/8" to 1/4" shoulder on your tenon all around.

jtk

[Tony Wilkins]

That would depend on a few factors. What size are your stretchers going to be?

It isn't likely you will have stretchers as wide as the legs so the 1/3 rule doesn't apply.

Are you planing on using tusk or draw bore tenons?

You would likely want at least a 1/8" to 1/4" shoulder on your tenon all around.

jtk

If I’m not following that plan, it’s all negotiable.