Originally Posted by
John TenEyck
Strength means nothing if it doesn't stay stuck. I drum sand my veneer to 80 to 100 grit. In the hundreds and hundreds of square feet of veneer I've glued down the only failure I've ever had was with Better Bond.
Veneer on solid wood will best accommodate seasonal movement, since they both move at about the same rate. It's when you use shop sawn veneer on stable substrates like MDF and plywood that problems are more likely to occur unless the glue has very high creep strength to prevent the veneer from moving. So why do I use MDF and/or plywood with shop sawn veneer? Because I can make wider panels that aren't prone to warping like solid wood panels often do, I can run the veneer in any direction, and I can assemble cabinets w/o concern for cross grain movement between panels.
The OP's situation is unique in trying to glue end grain veneer. End grain has inherently high seasonal movement, especially white oak. The best option I can see is to make it thin, maybe 1/16". Just doing that is going to be hard to keep it from breaking apart. What glue and/or prep method to use is not obvious. I might try spraying the face with several coats of dewaxed shellac before gluing it down, hoping that would prevent bleed through.
OK, so here's how I might do it. Start with whatever thickness you can glue into a sheet of veneer, say 1/4". Spray the finish side with several coats of shellac. Bond that face to a piece of 1/4 MDF with double stick tape. Drum sand the veneer down to 1/16" and glue it to the substrate. After the glue has cured, drum sand off the MDF.
John