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Thread: Recommendations for 10" table saw blades factory drilled for Hammer K3

  1. #1
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    Recommendations for 10" table saw blades factory drilled for Hammer K3

    Looking for a couple of sources for high quality 10" mcombo and crosscut/plywood blades bored for Hammer K3.

    Thanks
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  2. #2
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    Why 10", Scott? I cannot see any advantage over 12" blades for the K3.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #3
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    Cost. I don't cut anything that requires a 12" blade.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  4. #4
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    You blade tip speed will be less with a 10" on a saw designed for a 12" blade. Silvers Mill carries the 12" Forrest 40 and 48 T WW-II for a reasonable price and bored for Felder. (I run the 48T on my SC-3C, obviously with a different arbor setup) They do offer som 10" options, however. https://www.sliversmill.com/search.html and put "Felder" in the first box
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Hi, I use FS Tools blades on mine…Regards, Rod

  6. #6
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    I use the Felder "Silent-Power" blades in my Hammer K3, including their plywood blade. They work fine for my needs.

    I also have the Forest Dado set (purchased from Slivers Mill), although I rarely use that due to the slower process of installing and removing that set compared to single blades (and compared to what I remember the process was like for dado sets back when I had a non-sliding saw).

    Note that you cannot run a 12" blade and a scoring blade at the same time in a Hammer K3. So if you want to use the scoring blade you have to use 10" blades anyway. I can count on one finger the number of times I have used my scoring blade, but I still end up using the 10" blades 99.9% of the time.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  7. #7
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    Are there any special holes or just one center bore? Any drive dog holes are fairly non critical.
    Bill D

  8. #8
    I have this Tenryu combo blade, which is a 12 in/300 mm blade, on my K3. It's pretty good and only $90 on Amazon, pre-bored for Hammer/Felder. (They make rip and cross variants also, at about the same cost or less.) I'd bet this is cheaper than any 10 inch blade bored for Hammer/Felder, for which the market is probably tiny.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O3F3FW/

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Are there any special holes or just one center bore? Any drive dog holes are fairly non critical.
    Bill D
    Large center bore and two pin holes
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    In that case it would be easy enough to get a blade with the correct center bore and drill the two little holes your self. Use the good blade as a guide to make a drilling jig. Drill A big hole for a bolt of the correct arbor size. Then drop a good blade over the jig and drill the two dog holes.
    Use the jog to drill the dog holes. I would make then a 1/16 larger diameter to allow for slop.
    Bill D

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    In that case it would be easy enough to get a blade with the correct center bore and drill the two little holes your self.
    If you're able to find a blade with the correct center bore (30mm in this case), there's a good chance it already contains the pin holes for Hammer/Felder machines.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  12. #12
    why holes, ive never had a blade slip even ramming material through right up to stalling saws. 14" blades on the SCM cut better than 10 blades on the generals. Thicker plate thicker carbide.

  13. #13
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    Im assume the arbor has pins so the blade has to have holes to clear them. My Rockwell arbor has the two holes but no pins. on that one the pins are only used to unscrew the stub arbor from the main arbor. I had to make a special pin wrench to do that. The pin spacing was off too. I think it was supposed to be 2" C/C but it was more like 1+15/16"
    Bil lD

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    why holes, ive never had a blade slip even ramming material through right up to stalling saws.
    The holes / pins are part of the braking mechanism, from what I understand.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Im assume the arbor has pins so the blade has to have holes to clear them.
    Yes, the arbor has pins, so the blade has to have holes in the correct location. The arbor looks like this.

    arbor.png

    • Part #8 is the "actual" arbor, connected via belt to the motor.
    • Part #7 is a spacer used to make sure that a single blade lines up in the correct spot. You remove this spacer when using a dado stack or the thicker grooving blade that Felder sells.
    • Part #2 is the washer that goes on the outside of the blade. Note that it has holes for the pins as well. Also note that it has flats for a wrench to grab onto.
    • Part #3 is the bolt that secures everything to the arbor. It is basically a hex head cap screw.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Cost. I don't cut anything that requires a 12" blade.
    You spent a lot of money on the saw, why economize on the blades? By blades that were designed for a European slider. Three options that Felder/Hammer owners seem to like:

    1. Tenryu
    2. Leitz
    3. Felder

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