Another table saw vs bandsaw thread.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I was at Woodcraft this morning to pick up the brad point drill bits they had on sale.

I have around $2000 to spend. (Possibly $3000) Depending.

I can upgrade my table saw - from my current Ridgid TS 3660 - to something else.
I'm happy with it overall, but, the grass is always greener & the fence isn't bad - but - it isn't great.

Whatever I get, it has to be mobile.

For right now - I'm thinking bandsaw or table saw. Either one would do most of what I need done.

I'm limited right now to 120V - but - since there's a 100 amp panel in the shop area of the garage - adding a 220V is no problem. I plan to call in an electrician in the Spring to do some work so I can add it at that time.

I have two different router setups - a Milwaukee 5625-20 in a Woodpecker's plate and a Bosch 1617EVSPK in a JessEm Router Lift II, so I have most of my dado needs covered.

[Tom Trees]

You could likely get both, for that sorta dough, if seemingly not, then looking at the three phase market likely be the answer, and preferable for many.
(that's accounting for a cheap VFD on each.)
Around now might likely be the time to start looking for bargains, regardless.
Italian bandsaws are nice, a 20" machine is still easily movable.

What brands of non ancient tablesaw, (if skint, then 3 phase with dual voltage motors, see 220v low voltage spec , and a regular 2 pole or 4 pole RPM spec on the name plate)
to run off yer 220 supply which you're getting anyway, are there?

Something around 3hp/2.2kW would be good, with a 12" blade ideally.
which has a riving knife and not a splitter, because that would absolutely be a must.
Movable fence extrusion ala Roy Sutton video, left tilting arbor, mitre slots on each side of the blade, sliding table, or if you can find something more like a true slider
but compact, might be the icing on the cake, for a small garage workshop.
Go three phase on each, and likely have both for the money.

Just my 2cents
Tom

[Randy Heinemann]

I own the original Sawstop Jobsite saw and am very happy with it. It's definitely not a cabinet or production saw, but it does the job and, I feel, very accurately. If you're going to use it for cross-cutting though, I'd suggest an after-market miter gauge or something like an Incra sled. The miter gauge with the saw isn't good. The newest version of the saw has a couple more inches table in front of the blade and a better finish on the table than the original. It easily folds up and can be moved out of the way quickly.

I also own a bandsaw; Rikon 10-325 Deluxe. I've had it for close to 10 years and it does what I want it to do. I can resaw and cut curves. The important part of resawing is the guide and blade setup when installing a new blade. I do rip on the bandsaw since I have a jointer and can joint the resulting edge. I have also done rough cross-cutting on the bandsaw for smaller boards.

The thing I have learned by experience, at least for the work I do, is that each saw has its best use. For some work the bandsaw is clearly the best choice. Resawing, for example, should be done on a bandsaw and not a table saw (except for maybe resawing narrow boards). Ripping for furniture, cabinet, draw, etc. work is best done on a tablesaw. Curves, of course, can really only be done with a bandsaw (or jigsaw if no bandsaw is available). Then, there is other work which really can be done on either one.

I think the bandsaw is the most versatile of the two, but I need a table saw for some work. So, if you can swing both, a smaller table saw and a 14" bandsaw is a great combination.

Better yet, since you have a small table saw, just keep it and get a good 14" or 18" bandsaw. The 18" saw will just give you more power for resawing and more capacity. In my opinion, you really don't need anything bigger than a 14" bandsaw. The Rikon can already resaw up to 10". I don't come across many boards wider than that. Try the bandsaw and see what it doesn't do for you before investing in both.

[Brian Tymchak]

I have the TS 3650 that I added an Incra fence system to. It's been a work horse. Yes, a bit underpowered for cutting dense 8/4 lumber, but I can finesse it thru. I have a Rikon 14" bandsaw as well. At first I didn't use the BS much as I wasn't getting consistent cuts with it. But one weekend I upgraded the guides, mounted a good Diemaster II blade, and spent several hours tuning the saw. Started getting excellent results and have since used it more and more.

My advice would be to upgrade the fence on your TS and buy a bandsaw and park it on a mobile base. There have been a few times that the 14" has been a bit small for my need but it covers 98% of the cutting I want to do with it.

[John TenEyck]

Think used. You can get a hobbiest used Unisaw or Powermatic 66 for less than $2, in top notch condition. A used MM16 can probably be had for $2500. Why buy new?

John

[Matthew Hills]

By mobile, do you mean able to roll around garage, or able to transport to other locations?
(mobile bases will cover the roll-around-garage need pretty well)

Based on post, I'd be considering a decent blade (freud fusion, forrest, etc.) and pushing major tool purchase until either a good used deal or you have 220, in order to avoid the cost of incremental upgrades.

How are you managing dust right now?

[Rob Luter]

I’d go for the band saw. I have a TS3650 running on 220 and it does everything I need. I don’t use it very often though. A couple years ago I bought a 14” Rikon band saw (10-326 running on 110v) and use it all the time. Would an upgraded table saw be nice? Sure. But it really wouldn’t add anything for me.

[glenn bradley]

You don't mention what bandsaw you are now using so I will assume none. That being the case a 16"-plus bandsaw would be my go-to. People have done a lot of good work on the tablesaw you have or its close cousins.

[Richard Coers]

I would stop woodworking if I couldn't have the best table saw I could afford. Track saws and bandsaws are no substitute for how I work. I pretty much have all my favorite methods after 51 years of woodworking.

[Michael Burnside]

I would stop woodworking if I couldn't have the best table saw I could afford. Track saws and bandsaws are no substitute for how I work. I pretty much have all my favorite methods after 51 years of woodworking.

I’m with you. I’d upgrade my saw to maximum level before I thought about any other too. But everyone is different.

[lou Brava]

I'm assuming this is a hobby for you, if your trying to make money at it I'd have different advice. IMO it boils down to what type of person you are. I'm sure you can do excellent & accurate work on the Rigid but.... If your like me (and a lot of us) turning on a very nice 3HP cabinet saw really makes you happy than buy one, you don't need one but who really "needs" a Ferrari ? And buy a nice band saw, you'll have find another grand or so but in my world it's YOLO. Have fun and good luck in next tool purchases.

[Rod Sheridan]

I’m with you. I’d upgrade my saw to maximum level before I thought about any other too. But everyone is different.

Exactly, I have a format saw and I would give it up before the band saw.

I mostly make solid wood furniture and need the band saw for breaking down timber, respawning and veneer making.

Regards, Rod

[Lee Schierer]

I have yet to see a band saw rip or cross cut in hard or soft wood that has as smooth a finish as a cut surface made by a good carbide blade on a tuned up table saw.

[Doug Colombo]

Since you already have a table saw and seem to like it, maybe go for a band saw and a Vega fence system for the table saw. Before I upgraded to a cabinet TS, I had an older Craftsman that I installed the Vega fence on - I loved the fence and it made a huge difference !

[Bill Dufour]

VFD for a tablesaw is overkill. The variable speed and power brakes make sense for the bandsaw. Powermatic TS uses a conventional C-face motor. easy to swap out. Unisaw is custom or can be cobbled up from a foot mount motor. and some angle iron.
BilL D