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Thread: What do you use to remove PVA squeeze out?

  1. #31
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    Thatís part of the reason I chose to wait to flatten the panel. Iím using the BTC 4/4 glue for the first time (actually first PVA in a long time after using hot and liquid hide) so Iím trying to figure out the spreading. Itís a bit gloopy.

  2. #32
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    I've glued boards with Titebond glue, once dried it was pretty hard but I was able to plane through it. I'm not familiar with BTC 4/4, but if it's plain white glue, it should be no trouble.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins View Post
    That’s part of the reason I chose to wait to flatten the panel. I’m using the BTC 4/4 glue for the first time (actually first PVA in a long time after using hot and liquid hide) so I’m trying to figure out the spreading. It’s a bit gloopy.
    Business cards or those pieces of plastic that comes in the mail (promoting credit cards or satellite network systems) to apply glue. It makes it easy to control the thickness of the spread.

    One was set up for applying a coat of glue to dowels:

    Glue Applicator.jpg

    This was made with a piece of PVC pipe and some blue tape.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #34
    Someone once suggested to me to apply a tiny bit of wax polish in the areas where you expect the glue to squeeze out from the joints.

  5. #35
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    Added one of those flush trim plane things on my last LV order.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins View Post
    Added one of those flush trim plane things on my last LV order.
    I believe you'll find many uses for it. just be careful not to pinch your fingers when you put the blade back in the holder. That magnet is Powerful!

    Brian
    The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.

    The penalty for inaccuracy is more work

  7. #37
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    Final update: hereís the top after some fire and scrub planing and going though the thick glue squeeze outÖ
    IMG_1790.jpg

  8. #38
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    A Kunz Glue Scraper most of the time.

    But where I want to avoid scratches, I clamp everything up, let it squeeze out, wipe out what I can reach, remove and re-attach the clamps and wipe out more.

    I also wait about 90-120 minutes and remove the whole thing from the clamps and work with a chisel or putty knife.
    Regards,

    Tom

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    Sometimes tape is a good answer
    That works. Run blue tape right against the edges to be glued up but don't cover the wood to be glued. Tape guarantees there'll be no glue in pores. It can be a little tricky with perpendicular pieces, you have to be careful to not get tape in the joint when you remove it after the glue sets. I've used both techniques, wait for the glue to partially set or tape the surfaces right beside the joint. Both work.

  10. #40
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    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    Have to ask...what is the hurry?

    Set a Stanley No. 70 for a very fine cut....and pull it towards you along the glue lines...
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use

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