Looking for outfeed/assembly table opinions, lessons learned, etc

[Jarod Johnson]

I'm looking for some opinions, feedback, lessons learned, etc. before I finally commit to building the outfeed/assembly table I've been thinking about for a while. It's based on a paulk style workbench with the 20mm holes on 96mm spacing. My main goal is to have a nice open work surface with plenty of options for fixturing and eventually I'll use it with a tracksaw for working with large sheet goods. What do you guys think? Is there anything obvious that I'm missing or wish you'd added to your workbench design before building? I appreciate all input.

I'll also add that I can see myself adding drawer units or additional shelves underneath, but I want to see how the workflow works out first. It will also be somewhat mobile, I plan on adding retractable casters + leveling feet.
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[Jim Becker]

That appears to be a functional design. Be sure that in execution that your supports under the table line up exactly between your grid holes to minimize impact to clamps, etc. Consider if the height of the cubbies is sufficient for how you will use them and what you will likely be putting in there. Pay attention to how you are putting things together so you can assure there will be zero racking when working on the surface. It may require additional stretchers or other constructions to assure that.

[Jarod Johnson]

That was definitely something I was paying attention to with the internal supports, they get close but no holes are blocked. After taking a look at a couple of my tools, I might need to increase the size of the opening. I was hoping to keep as much space underneath as possible, though.

I'm planning on joining the legs with dominos up vertically into the bottom of the 'torsion box'. Do you think that will give a good amount of stability? I'm also keeping in mind that I can add a middle leg in case more support is needed.

[glenn bradley]

Jim hit most things I can think of. I also use my outfeed for things other than just an outfeed. The height is adjustable at all four corners. I run my outfeed just below the bottom of the miter slots as opposed to cutting grooves in the outfeed to accommodate the gauge or sled runners. This keeps me from having to alter the hole patterns on the top and does not bother me operationally. IF I worked with a lot of sheet goods I would want the outfeed flush. If this is your goal just factor your hole pattern and miter bar slots into your original design. BTW, changing tablesaws will often change the slot spacing.

[Jim Becker]

That was definitely something I was paying attention to with the internal supports, they get close but no holes are blocked. After taking a look at a couple of my tools, I might need to increase the size of the opening. I was hoping to keep as much space underneath as possible, though.

You can build that internal grid with 12mm material which can help a lot with giving clearance to the grid for clamps. On edge and glued properly, it's pretty darn stout.

I'm planning on joining the legs with dominos up vertically into the bottom of the 'torsion box'. Do you think that will give a good amount of stability? I'm also keeping in mind that I can add a middle leg in case more support is needed.

Using 12, or 14mm Dominos can provide a "good connection", but with the torsion box right on the top of the legs, there's less that I'd personally prefer to prevent racking. Extending the legs up through to the underside of the top of the top (sacrificing the hole in the corner, obviously) you'd have more structural attachment area on two sides of the leg to the torsion box because the inside of the box sides would be fully in contact and could be glued and bolted very securely. That will be less likely to rack over time.

[Cameron Wood]

Do folks actually use all those holes? How much time does one spend fishing fasteners and small parts out? My bench dog holes don't go all the way through the bench top, and little stuff gets stuck in them regularly, but there are only about 20 of them.

I think having the top overhang the legs/shelf is good to be able to stand up straight, and have an edge to put a clamp on.

I also have the outfeed table lower like glenn bradley. The saw table provides a stop to plane against, and I have about a 12" space between the saw and the table.
I rough cut stock laying across the saw table with a circular saw and the offcut drops onto the outfeed table.

If you put the whole thing together with dominos and glue, later changes will have to be made with a sawzall. Shops change, and move.

I have a solid core door with some extra width glued on, over a big drawer cabinet, but went many years with the top being just a panel of pine boards with cleats screwed to the back, and longer ago a 4x8 plywood topped worktable.

[Jim Becker]

Cameron, yes, having the grid provides the maximum flexibility for work holding and work alignment. It's a "system" approach. But yes, stuff does go down the holes...it's not really been a big deal for me, honestly, as anything important is recoverable and the rest just gets vacuumed up during normal shop cleaning type activity.

[lou Brava]

Looks like nice a design, I can't add much to what's been said but as far as taking the time to build a torsion box top check out this. I built one similar and it was very flat & stable. Now I'm going to build a smaller version as I've moved to a smaller space.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7UWrIKgmbE

[Michael Burnside]

Been there on the perforated 96mm oc dogs and absolutely hated it. I used 1/10 of the holes and loathed that every screw, saw dust and knick-knack fell through. I rebuilt with a solid Formica top and haven’t regretted it. I did add 1545 extrusion around the perimeter so I can clamp anything horizontal or vertical and even attach accessories to the extrusion.

This is just my opinion though, so you should build a bench for how YOU work. Others will have opinions, but they may have a different workflow than you.

[mike stenson]

Next top I'll be doing the 3mm holes for every 96mm intersection, but only doing the 20mm holes in a couple select areas. I figure that way, it's easy to add 20mm holes later.

[william walton]

I recently removed my hinged fold down outfeed table from my saw - it was nice, large and laminate covered. Instead i built a smaller mobile table with a removable top. One side has miter slots, the other flat. The table easily rolls away for other uses and has magnets to keep it in place on the saw when needed. The table is lightweight so i can lift it onto the saw during the few times i need to park a car in there (2 car garage ).

I'm sure i'm in the minority, but for either my outfeed or my main bench i can't imagine working with all those dog holes. I do a wide variety of projects, many with small hardware that easily gets misplaced. To each his own.

[Patty Hann]

Saw this comment on another wood forum. Take it for what it's worth.
Guy said he'd been woodworking for 50 years.
He said to never put dog holes in an out feed table. The holes could catch on whatever you are pushing through the saw.

[Michael Burnside]

Saw this comment on another wood forum. Take it for what it's worth.
Guy said he'd been woodworking for 50 years.
He said to never put dog holes in an out feed table. The holes could catch on whatever you are pushing through the saw.

Interesting. I hadn’t thought much about that as I don’t have them, but entirely plausible with thin or narrow stock. Good point Patty

[Jim Becker]

I'm skeptical about that if the holes are created with light chamfers...nothing to catch on. But no holes is perfectly fine, too